Which brand of concrete is best to choose for a garage foundation, types

First, a little theory. Any concrete includes three components:

  • The binder is cement. The quality of concrete directly depends on the brand of cement that was used for its production.
  • Fillers and additives (sand, crushed stone, gravel, toppings). Fillers not only reduce the stress of concrete during the hardening process, but also give the finished structure additional useful qualities: increased frost and moisture resistance, acceleration or retardation of concrete setting. The amount of filler also affects the cost of concrete.
  • Water (the less water, the greater the strength of the finished structure).

This is how the foundation slab for a garage is poured with concrete

What to look for when choosing concrete for a garage foundation?

Differences between an insulated monolithic Swedish slab and a video about its construction

As mentioned earlier, the insulated slab under the house developed by Swedish builders is energy-saving.
During its construction, permanent formwork made of extruded polystyrene foam is used. As a result, heat leakage into the ground is minimal. The second fundamental difference is the water heated floor system built into the slab. Since engineering systems are poured deep into concrete, it requires accurate and competent calculations. High demands are also placed on execution. Even small mistakes are critical. You can make USP yourself, but it is better to order the project. See the following photo for an approximate breakdown of costs. The amounts are no longer relevant, but the percentages are correct. The cost of the foundation project is about 1%.

Approximate percentage of costs for a monolithic slab foundation

In the following videos you will see the stages of making a Swedish stove for a specific house. Many useful devices are described that will make work easier, and explanations are given for some of their features.

And look how the Germans pour such a slab. There are also many useful nuances.

Forces acting on the foundation

There are 2 types of loads acting on the foundation - permanent and temporary. The influence of the former is observed during construction and during operation of the structure. The second includes impacts that occur in certain periods. In turn, they are divided into:

  • long-acting;
  • short-term;
  • special.

The permanent total load consists of the weight of the roof, walls and other parts of the building, equipment installed inside it. Snow load is added to the total weight in winter. And although it is a seasonal phenomenon, the calculation of the foundation is carried out taking this value into account.

On heaving soils, buoyancy forces pose a danger to low-rise buildings. They are capable of pushing out the foundation if the ground freezes below the base. The rise, and when the soil thaws, the lowering occurs unevenly, which leads to cracks in the walls, destruction of interior and exterior decoration, and distortion of door frames.

You can get rid of vertically directed buoyant forces by deepening the base below the freezing depth of the soil. But there are also lateral loads, which also arise due to heaving. They are so large that they can tilt the foundation, thereby changing the direction of pressure from the general loads of the house.

Step-by-step instructions for construction

In order to simplify the work, the construction of the foundation is carried out in stages, starting with preparatory and excavation work and ending with the care of poured concrete and waterproofing of structures that have gained strength. Wherein:


  1. At the initial stage, the main attention is paid to clearing the site, removing roots and debris, marking and transporting a sufficient amount of building materials.

  2. During trench digging, the markings must be clarified and, if necessary, the walls are strengthened.
  3. At the base preparation stage, the bottom of the trenches is leveled, compacted and covered with layers of sand and crushed stone (also compacted).
    When constructing on difficult soils, the layers are separated by geotextiles, and roll waterproofing is laid under the soles of the supports or a concrete base is poured.
  4. The boundaries of the foundation are formed by durable formwork without cracks, lubricated with waste oil or covered with plastic film.
  5. A tied frame is lowered inside the formwork, mounted on plastic supports.
  6. The concreting stage is carried out under suitable weather conditions, with layer-by-layer but continuous pouring of the solution, forcing out air and leveling each layer to 20 cm.
  7. The structures that have gained strength are coated or covered with waterproofing materials, on top and on the sides.

Tape

Marking of this type of base is carried out using long pegs and a cord, with diagonal deviations at the internal and external corners of no more than ±2 cm.

Reference. The recommended trench width for the tape is 40-50 cm, depth – 50-70.

The sand base for the future foundation is filled up only after leveling and compacting the bottom and updating the markings. The formwork and reinforced frame are most often laid simultaneously.

In the case of strip foundations, the frame is made three-dimensional, connected, reinforced with clamps and overlaps at the joints. Taking into account the elevation of the tape above the ground level, it is worth taking care in advance of supports or ties for the protruding parts of the formwork. Concrete pouring begins after eliminating the risk of distortion, and freshly poured structures are covered with film.

How to make a strip foundation for a garage is shown in the video below:

Columnar

Due to the low load-bearing capacity, columnar foundations are built only on dry and dense soils, with a low weight of the structure. The supports are placed in increments of 1 m in the corners and along the perimeter of the load-bearing walls and, if possible, are tied with ready-made reinforced concrete products or metal. By analogy with the previous foundation, sand and crushed stone are poured under their soles and compacted.

Combined designs

If it is necessary to increase the load-bearing capacity of a columnar-strip foundation without significantly increasing its mass and dimensions, the strip is insulated, expanded at the base (T-shaped heel or trapezoidal section) or reinforced with columnar supports at the corners of the load-bearing walls of the garage. The latter option is considered optimal when adding a hole to the plan, conducting construction on difficult soils or uneven areas.

The functions of additional supports are performed by pillars with a cross-section of at least 15 cm , buried 1-2 m into pre-dug holes. The frames of the columnar and strip parts are connected; after the concrete gains strength, the owners receive a monolithic and stable structure that can withstand seasonal soil movements well.

Pile

The order of work depends on the type of piles (bored, driven or screw), in most cases they are carried out using special equipment. An exception is made for TISE supports or metal screw piles of short length, which, if desired, can be laid on their own, using hand drills or levers.

Note. Regardless of the type, pile foundations for garages are tied with a grillage - hanging or partially recessed.

Step-by-step video review of the construction of a pile foundation for a garage:

Slab

The slab foundation for a garage is most often made shallow; the forces of frost heaving are compensated by 10-20 cm of sand and 10 cm of crushed stone. The recommended pit depth is 40 cm, with a height of the slab itself of 20 cm or more, double-row reinforcement (the use of ready-made meshes with cells no more than 20x20 cm is allowed) and protection of structures on the sides.

The surface of the slab is carefully smoothed, and the foundation is watered until the final strength is achieved. When choosing this design in the garage, there is no provision for a pit or basement, but the room itself and vehicles are better protected from moisture.

From the video you will learn how to make a Swedish slab foundation for a garage:

Factors determining the choice of concrete for a monolithic slab

When building lightweight structures on a slab, such as a garage, gazebo, barn, small frame or wooden house, the foundation material can be selected with an approximate consideration of the existing loads. Concrete grades M200 and M250 are suitable. Very rarely a slab foundation is made for light structures. Often they make do with pile or columnar types of foundation.


Monolithic slab foundation on sandy soil

To choose which concrete is best suited for creating a reinforced monolithic slab in a particular case when constructing heavier buildings, it is necessary to analyze a number of factors:

  • geological conditions at the construction site: soil type, its structure, groundwater level;
  • climatic features of the region: temperature regime and degree of air humidity;
  • the weight of the building being erected and associated loads from snow, furniture, residents, household appliances and equipment.

All the factors considered must be taken into account in order to correctly determine the appropriate brand of concrete. Independent construction of the foundation (the entire structure) requires certain knowledge and practical skills in performing the work.

Ready mix in bags

How to do it step by step with your own hands?

The most common type of foundation for a garage is strip foundation. Using his example, we will analyze the step-by-step process of constructing a foundation.

Marking

Marking the strip foundation involves creating an angle of 90 degrees. This is done like this:

  • According to the plan of the future garage, we determine the location of the right front corner. We hammer in the first peg. This will be the front corner of the garage.
  • From it we measure the required distance to the second auxiliary peg and drive it in.
  • We stretch a fishing line (rope) between the driven stakes.
  • Now we pull the ropes from both pegs at right angles perpendicular to the first line. And we put the third and fourth marks (we drive in stakes).

The result is a rectangle. To check the accuracy of the markings, you can use two methods:

  • Measure the rectangle along the diagonals. They must be equal in length.
  • From the corner, measure a distance of 3 meters in one direction and 4 meters in the other. With normal marking, the distance between the points will be 5 meters. The exact same check must be done at each corner.

If everything is marked correctly, you won’t have to worry about rearranging pegs from place to place, and you can proceed to the next stage.

We dig a trench. You can dig a ditch with your own hands using a shovel. The bottom of the ditch must be perfectly level. Therefore, use a water level during work.

Formwork

To create formwork, use sheets of plywood, boards or chipboard, more than 2 cm thick. Knock together the panels and lower them into the ditch on both sides. Secure with wooden blocks. Install spacers of the same length between the panels. This way you will form the same width of the formwork around the entire perimeter.

Place supports on the outside of the formwork. Cover the bottom of the ditch and the side sections of the formwork with waterproofing to prevent liquid from leaking out of the concrete solution.

How to pour concrete?

Concrete M 200-M 300 is suitable for the foundation for a garage. Concrete can be made independently or use factory-made material. A more reliable base will come from a factory solution, because it is quite difficult to follow the technology for its production at a construction site.

Work can be carried out in two methods:

  • continuous;
  • layer by layer.

The continuous technique ensures high quality pouring of the structure. If you need to take a short break in work, pour the concrete solution in a layer-by-layer manner.

When ordering a factory solution, the work process should not cause problems. The solution is fed into the formwork from a concrete mixer, placed using specialized hoses, compacted and leveled by vibration.

If possible, pouring the concrete solution should be done at a temperature of +15 to + 25°C. If it is necessary to fill the foundation in cold weather, use special additives and heat the construction site.

Waterproofing

After removing the formwork panels, the concrete surfaces are treated with waterproofing materials.

For a tape-type base, 3 methods of protection against excess moisture are required simultaneously:

  • vertical;
  • horizontal;
  • blind area.

The vertical method is carried out using welded or coating materials on the outer surface of the buried section of the foundation. Horizontal is made from welded materials on the surface of the concrete strip.

The blind area (concrete strip) prevents the penetration of rainwater into the structure. After completing all work below the zero mark, backfill with sand or soil.

Laying a base from other materials

There are alternative foundation options:

  • from tires - you can use tires for trucks and cars, tractors, buses, airplanes (suitable only for light structures);
  • from sleepers - an excellent solution for constructing a foundation when you need to do without the use of traditional materials;

  • from FBS - has considerable advantages, including excellent quality, as well as a relatively low price;
  • from road slabs - can be used on almost any type of soil and in all climatic zones.

How to determine the right brand

In order to select the required modification of concrete to obtain a strong and durable garage structure, you should consider:

  • the amount of freezing;
  • location of groundwater;
  • expected load;
  • design features of the base;
  • soil characteristics.

Having settled on the tape option, the most practical would be concrete M250 and M200. Such mixtures are intended for use on sandy and rocky soils.

If construction is to be done on soils with shallow groundwater, then a frost-resistant M300 mixture should be used.

Depending on the possible load, building codes regulate:

• M300 – for multi-storey buildings creating high loads;

• M250 – for one-story buildings made of brick or reinforced concrete structures;

• M200 – for the manufacture of walls from timber or logs, expanded clay blocks and similar materials.

With this foundation, the loads are distributed evenly over the entire area. Therefore, the structure is installed 0.7-1.5 m below the frost line.

The recessed structure must have increased water resistance parameters

With such a foundation, no matter what the walls are made of, M250 concrete should be used, combined with crushed gravel or granite

Which mixture is better

A brick garage must have high strength, so during its construction it is necessary to use M250 or M200 concrete. When building a garage in an area with cold climatic conditions, to impart plasticity and frost resistance, special fillers are added to it when making the solution.

Concrete for garage

To build a garage, you can use various materials; the characteristics of the materials from which the construction was carried out affect the type of foundation and the strength of the structure.

With a lightweight design, the base for the garage can be simple. When using brick or stone, the structure is heavy, and the foundation must have different characteristics and, accordingly, be made of high-quality concrete.

When building a garage, it is recommended to use the following mixtures:

• M150 – for foundations buried up to 0.3 m, with walls made of sheet iron;

• M200 - for installation of concrete blocks;

• M250 – for the foundation, with wooden walls and ceilings.

If you plan to install a basement in the garage, then you should use M300 concrete mixture, which has high waterproof characteristics.

When choosing a brand of concrete, it is necessary to take into account that cheap types of concrete have low strength and are justified when building light garages on simple soils.

Expensive materials will provide a large margin of safety, but the high cost will not always be justified. Therefore, when building an individual garage, taking into account financial costs and structural strength, it is more advisable to use a concrete mixture of medium grades.

Since the late 80s, monolithic strip foundations filled with ready-mix concrete BSG (ready-mix concrete) have become increasingly popular among the population. FBS foundation blocks began to give way to the practical and convenient monolithic casting of foundations. Not only strip foundations are cast, but also various combinations of structures: pile-transom, bored piles and others.

Thanks to a wide selection of design solutions using monolithic casting, builders are increasingly choosing this technology. This raises the question: “What kind of concrete is needed for the foundation?” Our managers answer this question quite often and without much difficulty, however, for a competent answer you will need information about the construction of the facility and other data.

How to properly pour a foundation for a garage: general information

Without a foundation, no building will last long; this statement is also true for a garage. There are many technologies for creating a foundation - pile and column method, strip method, as well as a foundation on a monolithic slab.

The most common options are the last two. If the soil is not complex, stable and stable, then a tape type . There are two types of strip foundations - prefabricated and poured . In the case of a prefabricated strip base, ready-made concrete blocks are used.

The monolithic slab allows you to work in difficult areas with problematic soil. The pile method is used if hard layers lie very deep, at a level of 200-250 centimeters, then there is no other way to reach them. All these three options are connected by the same technology - a monolithic slab, strip foundation and piles are erected by pouring concrete .


How to pour
a foundation for a garage with your own hands?
Regardless of the chosen method, the first stage will be research and preparation.

You can do soil research on your own. It will be easiest to find out from your neighbors.

Perhaps they have data on the soil, and they will agree to share the information.

If not, then you will have to do your own research. To do this, dig a hole with a depth of 250-300 centimeters . Samples are taken every twenty centimeters. Instead of a hole, you can drill a well.

In the case of stable soil, it is recommended to opt for a strip foundation . For heaving soil, it is advisable to take a monolithic slab .

The next important point in data collection is the level of soil freezing . It should not be determined experimentally, wait until winter, or conduct experiments. To do this, use tabular data published by government services. In the southern regions, the freezing depth is much lower than in the northern ones. In warm climates, the soil freezes to 50-60 centimeters . In temperate it is almost twice as much, 80-90 centimeters .

Mixing in a concrete mixer

The purpose of mixing is to create a uniform layer of cement laitance around the aggregate granules. It is impossible to achieve uniformity by transferring the mixture with a shovel.

If the mixer is large (more than 300 l or 0.3 m3), lubricate the container by swirling the diluted cement-sand mixture in it for 5 minutes. Then the solution is poured out - it can be used for finishing or masonry work.

Then you can lay out the components according to plan:

  1. Fill in up to a fifth of the calculated volume of water.
  2. Add all the cement and sand and stir for about a minute.
  3. Add all the crushed stone in portions.
  4. Start pouring the remaining volume of water, ensuring uniformity and plasticity. A harsh mixture is better than a diluted one.

For a small concrete mixer, the procedure is slightly different:

  1. Mix all the sand with half the crushed stone without adding water.
  2. Add all the cement and swirl thoroughly.
  3. Pour in about 4/5 of the volume of water.
  4. Fill up the remaining crushed stone.
  5. If the mixture is completely dry, add the rest of the water.

For small gravity mixers, the following scheme is also used:

  1. Pour in part of the calculated volume of water and 1 hour of crushed stone.
  2. Fill in all the cement and sand.
  3. Add the remaining crushed stone.
  4. Add water (if necessary).

When it comes to mixing, longer is not better. It is optimal to unload the mixture after 2 (maximum 5) minutes. As the cycle lengthens, the water will begin to evaporate - this will result in a decrease in the plasticity of concrete and confusion with determining the volume of water for the next batches.

Foundation cement

When pouring the foundation, it is necessary to use the correct binder. The brand required according to the joint venture “Concrete and reinforced concrete structures” can be determined from the table.

BrandApplication area
TsEM II/V - sh22.5 TsEM III/A - sh22.5
(ShPTs-300)
Preparation (concrete) for the foundation
TsEM II/A-sh32.5 (PTs-400 D20)For pouring the foundations of small private houses
TsEM l 32.5 (PTs-400 D0)For foundations of massive structures with high requirements for frost resistance and moisture resistance
TsEM l 42.5 (PTs-500 D0)For industrial facilities with a high degree of responsibility

For private construction, it is wiser to choose CEM II/A-sh32.5 or CEM I 32.5 (PTs-400 D0). This brand will be the most optimal solution in terms of price/quality ratio. If you want to get a foundation of increased strength for a heavy house, it is better to use TsEM l 42.5 (PTs-500 D0).

Additives to concrete

To improve the characteristics of the mixture or finished structure, in addition to cement, special modifiers are added to concrete. The most common ones include:

  • Plasticizers and superplasticizers. Allows you to reduce the amount of water for mixing. This increases the strength and frost resistance of the finished structure, reduces the likelihood of cracks, and reduces shrinkage. In addition, water resistance increases.
  • Antifreeze additives. They are used if it is necessary to fill at low temperatures. Allows you to perform work down to -15 degrees Celsius.
  • Self-compacting additives. If you plan to fill thin-walled structures, these substances are introduced into the solution.
  • Additives to accelerate strength gain. They are used to increase strength in the first day after pouring.
  • Additives to slow hardening. Used if it is necessary to maintain the mobility of the mixture for a sufficiently long time.

Plasticizers are most often used in modern construction. The use of complex additives for concrete mixtures is common.

Pouring a concrete floor in a garage

Pay special attention to choosing the grade of concrete for pouring the floor in the garage. A good option is concrete M250

It is quite durable, resistant to temperature changes and aggressive influences. You will need a lot of concrete. Even for a garage 4 by 6 meters you have to take 2.4 cubic meters of concrete. And when you make a slope for free flow of water, you have to take 3 cubic meters at once for such an area.

You can order concrete in a mixer, and direct the concrete itself to the center of the garage from a receiving tray. Then the mixture is stretched as a rule over the entire area. Concrete will be better leveled and bubbles will be removed from it if you use a submersible vibrator to process it.

Concrete proportions

The ratio of the main components in the concrete mixture is selected in accordance with the final task - obtaining the desired grade. The table shows the proportions of some concretes:

NameConcrete grade
M200M300M400M500
Cement brandM400M500M400M500M400M500M500
Ratio of components in dry state in parts by weight, C/P/Sh1/2,8/4,81/3,5/5,61/1,9/3,71/2,4/4,31/1,2/2,71/1,6/3,21/1,4/2,9

The water-cement ratio (W/C) plays an important role in the quality of concrete. The smaller it is, the stronger the final product. Cement is capable of using an amount of water equal to 0.25 parts of its mass. But the concrete in this case will be hard, so the optimal water-cement ratio is considered to be 0.3-0.75. Excess liquid remains locked in the concrete body or evaporates, leaving behind air pores. In both cases, the strength of the foundation will suffer. To increase the frost resistance of concrete, the W/C ratio is limited to the range of 0.5-0.6.

In private construction, concrete is prepared directly on the construction site. It is more convenient to measure components in such conditions with a bucket. Each ingredient has its own volumetric mass. A 10 liter bucket contains:

  • cement - 15 kg;
  • sand - 19 kg;
  • crushed stone - 17.5 kg.

Example: to prepare M200 concrete, for every 2 buckets of cement you will need 5 sand and 9 crushed stone. 1 bucket of water is enough for this amount of mixture.

Tape design

A monolithic strip base is a popular option for a garage with standard dimensions.

Car owners who prefer this base are attracted by its simplicity and affordable price.

To properly fill the foundation for a garage, use removable formwork

The sequence of activities for the construction of a strip foundation corresponds to a proven algorithm:

  • preparing the trench in accordance with the markings, ensuring the width of the base is 20 cm wider than the walls;
  • laying a filter sand-gravel mixture 15 cm thick, mandatory compaction;
  • installation, ensuring immobility, tightness of wooden formwork panels;
  • strengthening the contour using steel reinforcement with a diameter of at least 0.8 -1 cm;
  • mixing the working mixture;
  • pouring concrete into the cavity to the required height;
  • leveling the upper plane with a trowel;
  • moisturizing (in hot weather) the surface during the first three days;
  • waterproofing surface protection with sheet roofing material.

The quality of the strip structure is ensured by following the recommendations:

  • Ensure the level of the trench for the foundation so that the depth is below the freezing point of the soil for the given area.
  • Compact the sand and gravel mixture before adding each new portion.
  • Check the straightness of the formwork installation around the perimeter of the structure.
  • Follow the mixture recipe, ensuring compliance with grade M200 and higher.
  • When filling the volume in portions, do not allow breaks, distribute the solution evenly along the contour of the opening. This will avoid joining seams and ensure the integrity of the platform.
  • Remove air pockets using fittings or an internal vibrator.
  • Lay overlapping layers of waterproofing to make it difficult for moisture to enter the joints.

If you are planning to pour the foundation yourself, then a garage plan that has a standard design and a standard foundation depth is best suited for this.

Buying concrete

This type of concrete is delivered in special trucks with a rotating drum. The volume of concrete delivery per truck can be 4-7 cubic meters.

The difference between prices varies greatly depending on the brand of cement and the brand of concrete. Thus, the cheapest brand of concrete m-200 per 1 cubic meter is equal to 2800 rubles.

It is worth noting that payment for such a service is made not only for the concrete solution, but also for downtime of the machine during operation and draining of concrete.

It is noteworthy that absolutely any concrete mixture can be produced and delivered, which will be specified when ordering a machine with a solution.

Assessment of the influence of soil features

Before starting concrete work and digging trenches, analyze the type of soil on which the concrete platform for the premises will be located. The type of soil determines the depth of the trench, which depends on the density of the soil. The recommendations are:

  • Stony and hard rocks make it possible to build a garage on a planned site, without preparing trenches.
  • Gravel soils require a base depth above the frost line.
  • The foundation on clay soil forces a trench to be made at a depth below the freezing layers.
  • Sandy rocks, which are characterized by flowability, require foundations more than 2 meters deep.
  • Peat bogs are unsuitable for construction, but they allow construction after complete removal of peat and filling the cavity with a gravel-sand mixture.

When assessing the soil, remember the main thing - the garage is installed on a solid foundation.

Finally

Cement is not a building material you should skimp on

Being an important component of the concrete mixture, it has a significant impact on the final result of construction. In general, building a foundation is an expensive undertaking, so you should not further increase its cost through upcoming repair work

Which cement is better for the foundation - this issue is resolved directly at the stage of choosing the brand of concrete. It is best to immediately buy a factory-produced M500, from which you can obtain a concrete mass with the desired characteristics. Savings in this case are achieved due to less dosing of cement (determined by the selected technology).

(1 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5)

Recommendations from professionals

Experienced experts give some tips on how to fill a garage floor

It is also important when the work is carried out. The best time is spring and autumn. In winter, concreting is not carried out at all, since the concrete will not harden, but will freeze

In summer, moisture will evaporate rapidly and cracks may appear in the base body.

In winter, concreting is not carried out at all, since the concrete will not harden, but will freeze. In summer, moisture will evaporate rapidly and cracks may appear in the base body.

To prepare concrete with your own hands, you should purchase cement grade M400 or M500. To mix the solution, take dry sand and clean water. If imported concrete is used, then delivery should be organized after preparation. Concreting is done with compaction so that there are no air bubbles left in the mass. Only properly laid concrete will ensure the durability of the foundation.

A truly working legal way to save money. Everyone needs to know this!

Laying thermal insulation is necessary if the garage is used in winter and is heated. The best insulation is extruded polystyrene boards. They do not absorb moisture and do not accept mold. Reinforcement of concrete screeds is mandatory, since during repairs shock loads are possible, and the reinforcement must be able to withstand the forces.

The floor is made with a slight slope towards the gate so that the snow stuck to the wheels can melt and drain without creating a puddle. After hardening, the top layer of concreting is treated by rubbing in additives to give hardness to the coating. Such mixtures are sold in hardware stores and are called topping systems. The composition includes plasticizers, pigments and fillers. Solutions are rubbed into the surface of the base using a special device.

The concrete garage floor coating is neutral to petroleum products and solvents and is not destroyed by acids. Therefore, using it in the garage is considered correct.

The cost of turnkey concreting with the involvement of specialists can cost the garage owner approximately 30,000 to 40,000 rubles, depending on the concrete floor laying scheme. Prices increase if excavation, base preparation or mixing is required by hand.

Self-production will not only reduce the cost of work, but will also create a more powerful base. To calculate the amount of building materials you will need to know the area to be poured. The total thickness of the concrete multiplied by the floor area will determine the volume of the solution in cubic meters. The need for the constituent ingredients is calculated based on the proportions. To prepare a concrete cube M350 you will need:

  • cement M500 – 220 kg;
  • crushed stone, gravel – 0.75 m3;
  • sand – 0.75 m3;
  • reinforcement – ​​50 or 100 kg depending on the number of layers of reinforcement.

Transport costs should be taken into account. It is easy to calculate the cost of flooring if you know the consumption. You need to find out the price of the material in the region and multiply it by the required volume.

The cost of the finished mixture with delivery is calculated based on plant prices and transportation costs. Its price is 4 times more expensive than a self-made one. The mortar unit pays rent, labor of workers, managers and must operate at a profit.

Pouring a floor with hiring a crew, receiving ready-made concrete mix with delivery will cost 500 - 2500 rubles per square meter. Work done independently, with the involvement of helpers or specialists at some stages, can be completed, saving half the cost.

Kinds

LFs are erected by pouring concrete into formwork with reinforcement or laying foundation walls from precast reinforced concrete.

Therefore, strip foundations come in two types:

  1. Made.
  2. Jellied.

Made

Precast concrete foundations, like all building structures, have their own advantages and disadvantages. The popularity of reinforced concrete strip foundations is quite high.

This is due to the following advantages:

  • the speed of construction of the garage base occurs due to the laying of supporting walls from large foundation blocks and pillows;
  • The reduction in construction time is affected by the absence of wet processes. There is no need to wait a month for the monolith to gain load-bearing capacity;
  • installation of a prefabricated foundation is carried out at any time of the year;
  • there is no need to waste materials and time on assembling/dismantling formwork and knitting reinforced frames.

Along with the undeniable advantages, some disadvantages should be noted:

  • the costs of constructing a prefabricated LF may be significantly higher than the cost of a poured foundation;
  • installation of reinforced concrete blocks can only be carried out using lifting equipment (usually a truck crane is rented for this);
  • interblock seams require careful sealing with mortar and high-quality waterproofing.

Jellied

Strip monolithic reinforced concrete foundation is one of the most common types of garage foundations.

Advantages of shallow LF:

  1. The reliability and strength of the LF justifies the costs of excavation work, laying reinforced frames, installing and dismantling formwork, preparing and pouring liquid concrete.
  2. Allows you to build a garage from brick, gas and cinder blocks, as well as foam concrete.
  3. The simplicity of the design of a monolithic foundation allows you to do without the use of expensive construction equipment.

Monolithic tape, along with its advantages, has two main disadvantages.

  1. Large time costs for excavation work, erection of formwork, reinforcement and hardening of concrete (about 1 month).
  2. Impossibility of laying a foundation during the cold season. Heating concrete in winter will significantly increase the estimated cost of building a garage box.

A strip foundation in the form of a shallow or deeply laid foundation is not used for a garage. In the first case, this is the weak load-bearing capacity of the LF. In the second option, the foundation can cost much more than the cost of the rest of the construction.

Shallow LF in section:


How to make a shallow strip foundation with your own hands - tips from experts in the video:

Basic requirements when pouring

Before starting work, you should examine the soil and, based on the analysis, decide on the type of foundation. If the construction is done with your own hands, it is recommended to give preference to a strip foundation.

When pouring, certain requirements must be met:

  1. To increase the service life of a structure, excellent waterproofing is required.
  2. It is recommended to pour the garage foundation in the warm season, with minimal air humidity.
  3. To avoid problems with the proportions of the solution components, the initial mixture must be dry.

The foundation is the main component in the construction of any garage.

Therefore, it is extremely important to comply with the appropriate GOST standards and proportions. This affects the timing and safety of operation

Basic mistakes and tips

Mistakes that are made in the design and construction of strip foundations can be represented by the following list:

  1. They do not take into account the weak design resistance of the soil foundation, as a result of which the garage sags unevenly. This leads to the destruction of the supporting structures of the building.
  2. Poorly done waterproofing destroys the concrete base of the garage box. It is necessary to remove the soil on the sides of the tape and apply a new high-quality coating.
  3. Construction of a belt on heaving soil. If the layer is not very thick, it should be removed.
  4. Incorrectly calculated depth of the foundation base. The garage will either sink or perhaps be pushed out of the ground. The error can only be corrected by building a new foundation.

Determining the right brand

When choosing which foundation is best suited for a particular garage, you need to take into account the characteristics of the future structure. It is recommended to consider the following parameters:

Material for the construction of walls and roof of the future garage. The more weightless it is, the less strength the concrete mixture is required. However, for bricks or cinder blocks it is recommended to use a grade of at least M300. The dimensions of the future garage also determine the force of pressure on the foundation. Therefore, it is definitely recommended to take into account the height of the ceilings and the total area of ​​the building

An increase in dimensions also leads to the need to increase the strength of concrete. If you are planning a garage with a basement, exceptional care is required when choosing a brand. For such a structure, concrete with a high level of water resistance is needed.

Also one of the parameters is the time of pouring the garage foundation. If the base is poured at a time from the base to the top of the base and is not protected from the effects of precipitation, then it is recommended to choose a brand with the largest amount of cement. For example, M350. Not less.

Structure characteristics:

Materials from which it is planned to build the walls and roof of the garage: the lighter the weight of the materials for the construction of the garage, the lower the requirements for the foundation and, accordingly, for the properties of concrete. For a garage made of stone blocks or bricks, you will need concrete grade M300 or M400, for garages made of iron sheets, cinder blocks or foam concrete - M200.

dimensions : the larger the area and the higher the ceiling, the greater the pressure on the foundation and the higher the grade of concrete should be.

Having a basement : this part of the garage requires special attention to waterproofing the walls, so if you are planning a garage with a basement, use concrete at least M350 for the foundation.

Foundation type: Slab foundation for a garage, which covers the entire space of the foundation, the pressure on each unit of area will be less than when constructing a strip foundation.

For accurate calculations, also take into account the weight and dimensions of the car.

How not to miss when ordering concrete If you buy concrete from a trusted manufacturer or supplier who works directly with the plant, then there should be no problems with its quality. It’s another matter if you don’t have such a trusted supplier.

In this situation there are possible risks:

  • semi-handicraft and semi-legal production may deliver concrete of the wrong brand under the guise of a more expensive analogue;
  • under-delivery of concrete can not only slow down the construction process, but also reduce the quality of the foundation structure;
  • During the delivery process, the driver can drain part of the concrete “to the left”, and to avoid a shortage, dilute the remainder with water.

Therefore, you should not save money and buy concrete at the “lowest price in the city”, but it is even better to play it safe and order concrete of a higher grade than recommended by calculations.

The depth of the strip foundation is much greater than the thickness of the garage slab

Selecting and ordering concrete of the required quality is half the battle. To build a stable foundation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work precisely according to technology:

  • select a layer of earth to the desired depth,
  • add sand or crushed stone (or better yet a mixture of them),
  • compact the base
  • if necessary, place a layer of waterproofing on the sand-crushed stone cushion,
  • carry out reinforcement to strengthen the structure (the thickness and cell size of the reinforcing mesh depends on the required level of strength: for a private garage, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm and mesh cells of 15-20 cm is sufficient).

How to determine the right brand

In order to select the required modification of concrete to obtain a strong and durable garage structure, you should consider:

  • the amount of freezing;
  • location of groundwater;
  • expected load;
  • design features of the base;
  • soil characteristics.

Criterias of choice

Having settled on the tape option, the most practical would be concrete M250 and M200. Such mixtures are intended for use on sandy and rocky soils.

If construction is to be done on soils with shallow groundwater, then a frost-resistant M300 mixture should be used.

Depending on the possible load, building codes regulate:

• M300 – for multi-storey buildings creating high loads;

• M250 – for one-story buildings made of brick or reinforced concrete structures;

• M200 – for the manufacture of walls from timber or logs, expanded clay blocks and similar materials.

Monolithic foundation

With this foundation, the loads are distributed evenly over the entire area. Therefore, the structure is installed 0.7-1.5 m below the frost line.

The recessed structure must have increased water resistance parameters

With such a foundation, no matter what the walls are made of, M250 concrete should be used, combined with crushed gravel or granite

Which mixture is better

A brick garage must have high strength, so during its construction it is necessary to use M250 or M200 concrete. When building a garage in an area with cold climatic conditions, to impart plasticity and frost resistance, special fillers are added to it when making the solution.

Concrete for garage


To build a garage, you can use various materials; the characteristics of the materials from which the construction was carried out affect the type of foundation and the strength of the structure.

With a lightweight design, the base for the garage can be simple. When using brick or stone, the structure is heavy, and the foundation must have different characteristics and, accordingly, be made of high-quality concrete.

When building a garage, it is recommended to use the following mixtures:

• M150 – for foundations buried up to 0.3 m, with walls made of sheet iron;

• M200 - for installation of concrete blocks;

• M250 – for the foundation, with wooden walls and ceilings.

If you plan to install a basement in the garage, then you should use M300 concrete mixture, which has high waterproof characteristics.

When choosing a brand of concrete, it is necessary to take into account that cheap types of concrete have low strength and are justified when building light garages on simple soils.

Expensive materials will provide a large margin of safety, but the high cost will not always be justified. Therefore, when building an individual garage, taking into account financial costs and structural strength, it is more advisable to use a concrete mixture of medium grades.

The article will discuss pouring a foundation for a garage. The most popular types are strip foundations and monolithic slab foundations.

Regardless of the option chosen, it will be necessary to collect data and carry out some preparatory work.

You will need to determine the type of soil, the level of groundwater, and find out the freezing depth.

Based on the information received, the appropriate type of foundation is selected. The most common base is tape. If the site does not guarantee stability, then the choice can be made on a monolithic concrete slab. It forms a closed structure with the garage, which will be isolated from unstable soil. Let's find out how to pour a foundation for a garage and what kind of concrete is needed for a garage foundation.

Methods for preparing the solution

There are several methods for mixing concrete for a garage foundation. However, no matter what method it is decided to use, it is imperative to observe the proportions of the relevant materials. On average, the concrete mixture should have the formula: for 10 kilograms of cement, about 30 kilograms of sand and 45 kilograms of crushed stone are required. It is recommended to take half the total weight of the components.

Manual

When mixing the components by hand, you will need a shovel and a large tin container with sides. To begin with, the dry raw materials are mixed, forming a slide with a notch in the middle. Next, observing the proportions, water is gradually poured in and the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. The concrete must be homogeneous, without lumps or debris.

It is also recommended to monitor the consistency: the solution should not easily flow out of the shovel, but a constant shape upon contact with the tool is also a bad sign.

Mechanized

A mechanical concrete mixer will help make the process of preparing a concrete solution for the garage foundation easier. The design is quite easy to use and contains the following components:

  • the basis of the structure on which the remaining parts are installed;
  • tilt axis for securing the mixing container at the desired angle;
  • a propeller with blades that ensures mixing of the solution components;
  • small engine;
  • hole for disposal of ready-mixed concrete.

When building a garage, you can use a gravity or forced construction. These units differ in their operating methods, but are generally similar in the results achieved. However, due to good transportability and small dimensions, the first one is in high demand.

Important! Depending on the concrete mixer you select, the order in which components are added and operating safety precautions will change.

Factory production

There is not always a specialist nearby who can advise something or take control of the construction. Then factory-made concrete will come to the aid of people who are not sure of the correct proportions of the components. The solution can be ordered by specifying the parameters of the future garage.

Professionals will calculate the required strength, respectively, the brand, and send it to the site in a concrete mixer. The cost is calculated in cubic meters.

Features of concrete floor


Figure 1. Concrete floor in a garage Concrete floors have the following features compared to bulk and wooden floors

  • Resistance to mechanical loads
  • Solidity
  • Insensitive to moisture, microorganisms, various insects
  • High density and hardness

These features make concrete garage floors the most convenient, reliable and durable coating. Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of this coating include the following qualities:

  • High strength
  • Abrasion resistance
  • Durability
  • Moisture resistance
  • Resistance to fungi and various insects

The disadvantages of such a coating include its high cost, which is paid off in the future by the long service life of the concrete floor.

Basic requirements when pouring

Before starting work, you should examine the soil and, based on the analysis, decide on the type of foundation. If the construction is done with your own hands, it is recommended to give preference to a strip foundation.

When pouring, certain requirements must be met:

  1. To increase the service life of a structure, excellent waterproofing is required.
  2. It is recommended to pour the garage foundation in the warm season, with minimal air humidity.
  3. To avoid problems with the proportions of the solution components, the initial mixture must be dry.

The foundation is the main component in the construction of any garage.

Therefore, it is extremely important to comply with the appropriate GOST standards and proportions. This affects the timing and safety of operation

Recommended mixture composition for foundation

For the construction of the foundation, a concrete mixture of the highest quality is used, since the durability of the garage structure depends on the foundation. When choosing components, you need to be guided by simple but important rules:

  1. The base requires the best cement: without debris, lumps and unnecessary impurities. It is also not recommended to purchase material long before construction. If storage conditions are not observed, it quickly deteriorates. The best time to purchase is considered to be 1-2 weeks before the start of construction.
  2. Sand is recommended to be used with a minimum moisture content. Before mixing concrete, the raw materials can be dried or the amount of water intended for the solution can be reduced. However, such calculations should be trusted to a professional.
  3. Crushed stone or gravel for the foundation is not required to be large, no more than 2 centimeters in diameter.

Important! To create high-quality concrete, it is necessary to maintain proportions and take into account the influence of external data. It is recommended to entrust such a troublesome task to specialists.

Marking and grades of concrete

The grade of cement for the foundation of a house is designated as “M”. O indicates the class of the substance. The letter “P” will help determine the mobility parameters of a substance. The "W" indicates how water resistant the cement will be. O is related to how resistant a substance is to low temperatures.

The grade of concrete for the strip foundation of a private house or other types of structures is the main characteristic. It shows what load and how exactly the cement itself will carry. You can also find out about compression after it hardens (a month is taken into account).

For example, grade M100 B7.5 indicates that the cement has a relatively low level of quality. In most cases, a similar brand is used for work at the initial stage. This material can be useful to build cement pads for the foundation itself.

The M150 B12.5 indicator shows that the cement will not be of very high quality. Most often it is used to create cement paths. It is also suitable for rough-type screeds.

The M200 B15 index in the name indicates that in the future the substance can be used for construction purposes, but only where there will not be too heavy loads. For example, this brand of concrete will definitely work for a strip foundation. Belt slabs will be of excellent quality if all production rules are followed.

M300 B22.5 is considered the most common and popular brand. This is especially true for Russia and the CIS countries. The quality of this product can be considered, but strictly “good”. Most often, the material is used to fill the foundations of country houses.

The grade of concrete for the foundation of a two-story house is also M300 B22.5. But if you need increased strength, it is better to use products with an M350 B25 indicator. A product with this parameter is used for buildings and structures that require an increased level of strength.

Less often in Russia and the CIS countries they resort to cement marked M500 B40. This rare product is mainly suitable only for special construction sites and storage facilities in banks, since the strength will be maximum, but you will have to pay a lot of money for such luxury. So it is not advisable to use this option for building a regular house.

What characteristics must concrete meet?

For strip foundations, it is better to take concrete with increased strength properties.

If, according to the design, M300 concrete is sufficient, it is better to choose the M350 grade and make the base itself somewhat wider than the recommended parameters. If you someday decide to equip a living room above the garage, you will not need to strengthen the foundation.

The most significant characteristics:

  • Water resistance;
  • Strength;
  • Resistance to temperature changes.

The water resistance of the material shows how safe the structure will be and whether additional waterproofing of the base will be required.

The strength of cement in mortar affects the durability of the structure. This parameter is determined by the grade of material.

Concrete for the foundation of a bathhouse

The difference between this concrete is that it does not require a deep enough trench. 50 centimeters deep will be enough. Roofing felt waterproofing is placed at the bottom of such a pit, and only then the process of pouring the foundation occurs.

Removing the sand cushion is not at all necessary for the foundation of the bathhouse. The composition of concrete can be varied, and to strengthen its bond, you can use fragments of brick or concrete, diluting the mixture in the trench with them.

The composition of concrete can be with the following ratios:

  1. Water (2 buckets).
  2. Cement (1 bucket).
  3. Sand (3 buckets).
  4. Crushed stone or expanded clay (4 buckets).

It is noteworthy that it is best to make the solution thinner so that every crack is saturated with concrete.

Rating
( 1 rating, average 4 out of 5 )
Did you like the article? Share with friends:
For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]