Practical interior and exterior decoration of a bathhouse made of foam blocks. How to finish it so that the eye is pleased?

Many of those who decide to get a bathhouse on a country site opt for foam blocks. This is a lightweight and cheap material that you can handle even without being a professional. And yet, its features require careful attention to detail: if you do not want to freeze, it is better not to neglect the recommendation to use special glue instead of a cement mixture, and priming and waterproofing cannot be excluded from the list of finishing works, because this is fraught with destruction of the foam blocks.

The reasons for these requirements lie in the physical properties - the cement mixture has different thermal insulation indicators, and for glue they are close to foam concrete, while water is easily absorbed by its porous structure, which is why walls made of this material need protection. By the way, in addition to waterproofing, thermal insulation will not hurt.

The last two points relate to finishing work. Let's take a closer look at how to decorate a bathhouse made of foam blocks inside and out. Let's start with the interior work. This article about foam block baths, their finishing, photos will help you too.

The process of finishing interior walls with clapboard

Many people perform cladding using wooden lining.
The advantages of wood are obvious to everyone - it is durable and beautiful, but when using it, all the nuances must be taken into account. For example, lining made from coniferous trees cannot be used where temperatures are always high, that is, in steam rooms, since when it is heated, sticky resins are released. They are dangerous to the human respiratory system. Quite often mold forms in bathhouses. Antiseptics of various types help to cope with this, so it is better not to decorate the washing room with clapboard. Cheap pine paneling is used in dressing rooms. Deciduous trees are needed in the steam room. The most reliable and durable oak lining. However, currently aspen lining is most often used.

By all accounts, aspen is the best type of finish. The advantages are aroma, environmental friendliness, and health benefits, because when heated, some wood species release phytoncides into the environment.

Move the paneling into the bathhouse itself - it should absorb excess moisture. Before installing the finishing, complete the wiring of all communications.

Next, you need to make a wooden sheathing (for this it is better to use special screws intended only for working with foam blocks) and then everything is covered with a special solution that prevents the formation of mold.

Next, the insulation is installed. The vapor barrier material is attached with a stapler to the sheathing previously prepared for this.

Next, the lining is secured either with nails or secret clamps. Claypers are used at the finishing and decorating stage.

Installation of beacons

After all of the above, you should measure the parameters of the walls and begin manufacturing a wooden frame or beacons based on the measurements taken. The guide beacons must be fixed at a distance of about 0.6 - 0.9 meters from each other, vertically. This is usually done with self-tapping screws.

Beacons must be level. To do this, cut plywood and timber are installed underneath them. Check whether the guides in the sashes are installed correctly using twine or rope. First, a rope is pulled above the floor level, then the same is done in the middle of the wall and under the ceiling. The lace should not be deflected by the beacons in the other direction and no gaps should form between the sheathing and the lace.

About insulation and vapor barrier

The most important and basic thing for a steam room is that it must retain heat very well. At any time of the year, there must be the required temperature inside the steam room

If the vapor barrier is not completed, the steam leaves the room through the walls, after which condensation forms between the walls and the finish. As a result, the wood begins to rot and mold forms on it.

A professional installation of insulation and vapor barrier will keep the bathhouse structure in its original form and protect it from destruction.

Also, in a comfortable bathhouse with the thickest walls possible, it is necessary to provide ventilation.

When the human body lacks air, a feeling of dizziness, nausea and weakness appears, this is especially dangerous for people with the initial stage of diseases of the cardiovascular system.

Ventilation is intended for the following purposes.

• Redistribution of air masses in the steam room;
• Formation of fresh air and its influx. This is especially necessary when using an electric heater as a heating element, since it burns oxygen.

Sheathing material

This process can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.

In order to calculate the required amount of lining, you need:

1. Let's calculate a bathhouse measuring 4x4 meters, with a ceiling height of 3 meters. We will trim and sheathe all the walls and ceiling;
2. Let's assume that the bathhouse has two compartments - a 3x4 meter steam room and a 1x4 meter dressing room;
3. Next, you need to calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining. Calculation of ceiling area: 3x4=12 m2. Calculation of wall area No. 1: 4x4 = 16 m2. Calculation of the area of ​​a short wall: 3x3=9 m2;
4. We calculate the total area of ​​all compartments: 12 (ceiling) +16 (wall No. 1) +9 (wall No. 2) +3 (wall No. 3) +3 (wall No. 4) = 42 m2;
5. Next, we perform calculations for the dressing room. Ceiling area: 1x4=4 m2. Area of ​​two walls No. 1: 4x3=12 m2. 12x2=24 m2. Wall area No. 2: 1x3 = 3 m2. 3x2=6 m2. Total area: 4+24+6=34 m2;
6. The total finishing area is 42+34=76 square meters;
7. Then we count the window and door openings, their area, then add about 15-20 percent to trim the material.

What needs to be done to insulate a bathhouse

Below we will separately consider how to insulate a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks (cinder blocks, foam blocks), but at the same time we will talk about each plane separately. That is, the insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls in the bathhouse will be described separately.

We insulate the wall

This is what insulation of a wall with cladding and waterproofing looks like

In order to insulate a bathhouse made of foam blocks, expanded clay or slag blocks, first of all, you need to choose insulation. Let’s say right away that the most environmentally friendly product in this situation will be felt, but since it is not available for sale on the construction market, we will have to choose from what is available. It should be borne in mind that the installation will be carried out in a hot and damp room and, in connection with this, select the material.

Foiled mineral wool

Based on the above data, we can come to the conclusion that in order to insulate a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks, of all the listed materials, mineral wool will be the most suitable (this includes stone wool, glass wool and slag wool). Its price is not very high, and you can choose the required thickness (from 20 to 200 mm) depending on the climate of your region. But in any case, you will need foil for waterproofing.

Foil polyethylene foam

If the mineral wool does not have a foil layer, then it needs to be added, and foil polyethylene foam, which you see in the photo above, is excellent for this. The thickness of such material varies from 2 to 20 mm, and by covering a layer of mineral wool with this, you significantly increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

U-shaped belt suspension brackets (pawns)

For wooden lining, that is, for cladding a steam room, you need a sheathing that will be attached to brackets, or it will be thick bars, between which insulation for the bath will be installed. The second option is simpler, but installing timber on a block wall is not so easy, even if it is plastered. The fact is that if the thickness of the sheathing is 100 mm, then anchor bolts will be needed to fasten it, which is not entirely acceptable for a wall made of such material.

Mineral wool is inserted through the consoles

We continue to consider how to insulate a cinder block bathhouse from the inside and will install the sheathing. Place some kind of waterproofing material on the wall, under the brackets, and then attach the consoles themselves with bod profiles. Mineral wool is threaded directly through the pawns, and then carefully covered with foil polyethylene foam, trying to ensure that no holes remain.

Ceiling

Insulation of the ceiling in the bathhouse

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation and waterproofing of the ceiling occurs, in principle, in the same way as insulating the walls of a bathhouse, only the installation plane changes. Considering that there cannot be foam blocks on the ceiling, but, for example, a wooden floor or a concrete slab, timber can be successfully used as a sheathing.

Floor

Bathroom floor insulation

https://youtube.com/watch?v=t-Nzx6yvsrg

Almost any materials are suitable for the floor in the bathhouse, for example those that are used to insulate the loggia, that is, extruded polyethylene foam or expanded clay. After all, you will still be pouring a cement screed, so both will do, but expanded clay is much cheaper. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer will depend on the degree of soil freezing and the general temperature in your area.

Requirements for finishing material

Foam block belongs to the category of porous building materials. In its production, a gas-forming substance is used, due to which more bubbles appear inside the solidifying mixture.

Thanks to this, the walls have a high degree of vapor permeability. Natural air infiltration passing through the enclosing structures helps to establish a microclimate comfortable for living inside the home. The material “breathes”. That is, our main condition when choosing the finishing of a building should be the absence of obstacles to the escape of water vapor from the interior. In other words, the instructions tell us that if the finishing is improper, we retain water vapor, which begins to accumulate in the foam concrete material. As a result, we get the accumulation of moisture in the body of the block and its destruction.

Foam blocks themselves do not have high mechanical strength and can be damaged as a result of mechanical stress. In addition, they will absorb water, which will freeze at subzero temperatures and destroy the blocks.

Therefore, you need to choose finishing options for foam blocks taking into account the characteristics given in the table.

Let us indicate which finishing options for foam blocks are definitely not suitable:

• Ceramic tile;
• Concrete tiles;
• Plates made of foamed polymer;
• Conventional plaster with a mortar based on sand and cement;
• Paints that will form a film on the surface of the walls.

What dangers await you if the steam room is not insulated correctly?

Sooner or later, the flaws of improper work will come out. There are only two main ones:

1. Wrong choice of materials. As a result, you can get an unpleasant odor released by the material when heated, poor heat retention and, as a result, high heat and energy consumption.
2. Violation of the tightness of the room. It is observed when the vapor barrier of walls and ceilings is incorrect. In this case, there will be a leak of steam, a decrease in heat and an increase in thermal energy consumption. Under the influence of hot air, deformation of finishing materials and internal structures of the building will occur. Steam turning into water will become a source of dampness, and subsequently an unpleasant odor and mold.

Insulation and waterproofing of buildings

Waterproofing the steam room with foil.

1. The best option for insulating the steam compartment from moisture is a special aluminum foil. It covers the walls from the inside, before they are faced.
2. In other rooms - washing room, dressing room, rest room, the walls are protected with vapor-proof membrane films.
3. In winter, a strong temperature difference between the rooms of the bathhouse and the street leads to moisture condensation inside the walls. When frozen, it damages blocks. Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the building on both sides. To do this, you can use different types of foam or mineral wool.

The photo shows thermal insulation made of mineral wool.

External cladding

Ventilated facade.

In order for a building to look aesthetically pleasing from the outside, it must be lined with some kind of material.

1. The best exterior finish for aerated concrete is a ventilated façade, which is of the hinged type. It will allow excess moisture from the walls to evaporate into the atmosphere.
2. The optimal coverings of this type are basement and wall siding made of vinyl, as well as decorative slabs mounted on the sheathing.
3. Please note that for sufficient air circulation, the coating must be 5 cm away from the wall.

Concrete floors

If you decide to pour a concrete floor, then the bottom slabs or subfloor on the ground are thoroughly protected from the harmful effects of moisture. For these purposes, you can use rolled material in 1 layer or coating mastic in 3-4 layers. An alternative is to combine these types of waterproofing materials, after which the selected insulation is installed. If it is expanded clay, then it can also be mixed into the concrete screed. By the way, you can also insulate it with a layer of 25 cm of foam concrete of lower density. A reinforcing mesh is mounted on the installed insulating layer, this is done to prevent destruction of the concrete coating. After strengthening the floor, a concrete screed is laid on the reinforcement frame. The finishing coating depends on the wishes of the owner of the future bathhouse.

Ceiling insulation

Without reliable thermal insulation of the ceiling, it is impossible to properly insulate the bathhouse from the inside. More than 90% of thermal energy rises to the ceiling and evaporates. There are two methods for insulating the ceiling:

1. The first method requires the use of foil, which is placed on the ceiling of the bathhouse from the attic side. Then the foil is covered with a layer of waterproofing and the entire space between the rafters is filled with fine expanded clay. Then the expanded clay is covered with another layer of plastic film on top and the roof can be installed.
2. The second method is more suitable for a bathhouse with an attic. In this case, instead of expanded clay, you can fill the ceiling with clay mixed with sawdust. The effective layer of such coating is 20–25 cm.

Wall insulation

In order to properly insulate the walls of a bathhouse from the inside, it is necessary to use frame technology:

• Wooden sheathing is mounted on foam block walls.
• A layer of waterproofing material is installed.
• Insulation is being installed.
• Then you need to install another layer of vapor barrier.

Advice! To increase thermal insulation properties, it is best to choose a vapor barrier material based on foil. This will shield thermal energy, thereby reducing heat loss.

Based on the above material, it is quite easy to insulate a bathhouse. A distinctive feature of such work for a structure made of foam blocks is the use of a large amount of waterproofing material. A properly insulated sauna will last a long time and bring a lot of positive emotions.

Attic insulation

To insulate the attic, you can use mineral wool.
If the bathhouse is built with a technical upper floor, it is insulated along the covering, walls and slopes.

Materials used for the horizontal layer:

• slag;
• expanded clay;
• felt;
• Styrofoam.

Insulation of walls and ceilings in the attic is done according to the insulation scheme for similar surfaces in the bathhouse.

Lining

It is best to decorate the interior walls of a bathhouse with clapboard as it looks good, smells good and does not form condensation.

Finishing the steam room of a bathhouse photo of one of the clapboard cladding options

Before you start finishing the steam room with clapboard, you need to treat this clapboard with an antiseptic and a moisture-repellent solution, and you cannot cover it with stain or varnish, since high temperature and moisture will destroy them and, as a result, harmful and dangerous substances will be released that have a negative effect on the human body. The quality of clapboard finishing for baths and steam rooms depends on the quality of the finishing material, in this case the quality of the clapboard. Therefore, the interior decoration of the steam room should be done only with clapboard that is well dried and free of knots and nicks.

Finishing the bathhouse with a slab on the ceiling instead of lathing

It is best to finish a bathhouse with eurolining made from hardwood because such wood has lower thermal conductivity than other species and therefore less heat will reach the walls through them. There are different types of hardwood, for example, lining made by:

• From birch it charges a person with energy.
• Aspen makes a very durable lining if the wood is properly dried; this wood absorbs negative energy and helps get rid of headaches. Aspen is very moisture resistant and almost does not crack, and also almost does not rot and has antiseptic properties. It is best to make bath floors from aspen.
• It is better not to make it from birch as it dries out a lot due to its loose structure.
• It is also not recommended to make it from larch since it contains a lot of resin, and when heated, the resin will flow.
• Linden will make a beautiful white steam room, and since it is the lowest heat-conducting wood, it is best to finish the bathhouse with linden on the ceiling and walls located near the stove. Even in a humid environment, linden does not lose its properties and when heated it begins to emit a pleasant aroma, so it is recommended to decorate steam rooms with linden.

The finishing of both wooden and brick baths is done almost the same way. First of all, the floor is laid. The floors in the bathhouse should be made of wooden boards with a slight slope towards the drain. Since the temperature at floor level almost never rises above 35 degrees, almost any wood pre-treated with an antiseptic solution can be used for the floor.

Floors made of ceramic tiles need to be covered

Also, the floors in the bathhouse can be tiled, but on such a floor you can easily slip and therefore, for safety reasons, you must put a wooden flooring on the floor. When the floor is ready, begin finishing the walls. If the walls are smooth, then roll insulation with foil is attached to the wall, and when finishing the bathhouse with foil is finished, it is covered with clapboard. If the walls are not level, then a sheathing is first attached to the walls at a distance of 70 cm from each other, into which the insulation and waterproofing layer are laid, and then the lining is stuffed over the sheathing.

Tips and tricks

1. First of all, do not forget that heated air masses can exit the bathhouse through the windows.
   And for this reason, you should give preference to small windows. What is also important, experts recommend, if possible, installing frames with more than one double-glazed window. And it is best to have 2 or 3 double-glazed windows (the more, the better, because this will prevent the rapid evaporation of warm air from the bathhouse). Small window in the bathhouse - photo
2. Doors and thresholds have an important influence on the thermal insulation in your bathhouse.
   Quite often, specialists are contacted with the problem of rapid evaporation of air from the bathhouse. And the reason for this in 90% is the gap between the threshold and the door, due to which all the heat evaporates. To be sure that you will not encounter a similar problem, it is best to install low doors with a high threshold. It is recommended to install small doors with a high threshold
3. Due attention should be paid to the heater.
   After all, the intensity of heating the bath and how long the warm air will be retained in it will directly depend on the heat capacity of the stones. Stove-heater

Bathroom flooring

In a bathhouse, the floors are usually made of concrete or wood, which in turn can be leaky or non-leaky.

They require effective ventilation (holes in the foundation) so that the wood does not rot, otherwise a musty, stale smell, mold and condensation on the walls are inevitable.

A self-leveling concrete floor is a kind of screed that contains, in addition to cement and sand, filler in the form of crushed stone, gravel, marble chips, etc.

It is difficult to achieve the uniformity of such a solution manually, so a regular sand-cement mortar is laid using a concrete vibrator. Such ready-made mixtures for floor screed are available in the retail chain.

Ceramic tiles provide good protection for a concrete floor from moisture, but in the washing area it is advisable to use ribbed tiles with a non-slip surface, on top of which wooden grates are usually placed on top of the concrete floor.

Beams for a wooden floor that does not leak are 100x100 mm or larger bars. First, subfloor boards are nailed to the lower sides of the beams, and insulation, for example, stone wool, is placed on top of them in the gap between two layers of waterproofing film. Most often, tongue and groove boards made of pine or linden with a thickness of 40 mm are used as floor covering.

Wooden floors

Wooden floors are insulated in a different way than concrete floors. For these purposes, more suitable polystyrene foam boards and foamed polymers are ecowool or Icing foam.

Insulation of wooden floors includes the following steps:

• The bars are ground to the very bottom edge of the main beams; they will be indispensable for constructing a subfloor.
• Pre-cut boards are laid between the beams on bars; the dimensions of these boards should be slightly smaller than the distance between adjacent beams. It is better to use low-grade wood for the construction of the cranial floor.
• A waterproofing membrane with a vapor-protective film is laid over the resulting layer; it should cover the entire area of ​​the wooden floor structure. Expensive film can be replaced with sheets of roofing material with seams taped with bitumen mastic.
• Insulation is laid on this layer, on top of which the finishing floor boards are mounted and baseboards are installed.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse made of foam blocks

Building a bathhouse is still half the trouble; the interior finishing of the steam room, washing compartment, and installation of a sauna heater stove still lie ahead.

Today, on the construction market there are a huge variety of different types of finishing materials, both for home and for bathhouses. Basically, for interior decoration, insulation, a vapor barrier in the form of foil film, or foil itself, and lining are used. To decorate the interior, namely the steam room, it is best to use linden lining for this purpose, but the price of this product can sometimes be very high. If the entire bathhouse is decorated with linden lining, it will turn golden))).

But the craftsmen came up with a little trick: the steam room is small and you will have to fork out for it and decorate it with linden, but the washing compartment can be decorated with a pine car, which costs several times less. Moreover, the temperature in this room is more gentle than in the steam room. And you don’t have to worry that the lining will begin to release resin.

Some people also do the following: in the steam room, they line it with pine clapboard at a level of a meter from the floor, and continue above with linden. It turns out the following: below the level of 1 meter, the concentration of fresh air and a gentle temperature prevail, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the pine lining, namely, it does not emit resin.

The author decided to decorate his steam room with linden lining, since he is doing it for himself, for the soul, and saving in this case does not make sense. He will do all the interior finishing work himself.

Materials:

bars, lining, tiles, boards, bricks, metal sauna stove, heater stones, tile adhesive. Tools:

hacksaw, hammer, trowel, mallet, level, ruler, tape measure.

And so the first thing he does is sew bars onto the walls.

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How to properly insulate a steam room

A steam room is the main bathing room from which visitors expect certain properties, in particular long-term heat retention. To do this, the steam room is insulated, but this must be done taking into account the preferences of certain traditions.

The fact is that in a Russian bath, long-term heating and retention of heat is carried out due to long-term heating by the same brick oven. Slowly heated wooden surfaces give off heat for just as long. If the thickness of the walls is not small and there are no cracks in them, then additional insulation is not required.

In addition, the Russian bath does not strive for high temperatures. If you make a “thermos” in it, this may become an obstacle to maintaining fairly low temperatures (40-70 degrees) characteristic of this type of national bath. Thermos is made using foil.

For more information about using foil for the ceiling, see this page.

As for the Finnish bathhouse - sauna, the task here is precisely to reach the set high temperature in the steam room in the shortest possible time and maintain it until the end of the procedures, subject to intensive air exchange.

It is worth insulating the steam room only if there are real problems with heat loss.

ADVICE! Focus on the material of the walls: in a brick bath, thermal insulation of the steam room is required, in a frame bath the thickness of the walls is included in the design, in a block bath it can be moderate, with a greater emphasis on waterproofing, and in a wooden bath it may not be necessary at all.

About the “thermos” a little lower, but otherwise the insulation scheme looks standard - most use mineral wool, because in fact there are not so many options for insulation in the bathhouse under the steam room lining

But even if it is mineral wool, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is intended strictly for saunas and baths - this means that it has a low content of phenols and other harmful substances in the bond for stone fibers

In addition to mineral wool, ecowool, clay with sawdust and some other materials that are harmless to health can be used in the steam room of the bath.

You already know that insulation is placed directly on the wooden walls of a bathhouse; in other cases, it is separated by a vapor barrier on one side and a waterproofing barrier on the other. This applies to insulation materials that are afraid of moisture and lose their insulating properties due to its action.

You can read more about materials and technologies for thermal insulation of steam rooms in this and this article.

Basalt wool, specially designed for baths and saunas

Foil

Foil always causes fierce debate. The debates themselves are divided into two categories: is foil needed in a Russian bath and what is its effectiveness in reflecting heat.

Let's start with the fact that mirror surfaces have long been used to focus and redirect various types of radiation, including infrared - remember the design of the same reflector. The lining in the bathhouse does not interfere with infrared radiation.

IMPORTANT! But there is an essential condition for the mirror surface to work as a reflector - there must be air in front of the foil. The contact of other material to the foil on the reflection side is unacceptable

The ventilation gap from the foil to the lining is just right.

As for the use of foil in a Russian bath, there is, of course, no categorical prohibition, but it is advisable that you have ways to regulate the temperature, for example, using ventilation and the stove itself. In a steam room with an iron stove without a brick or stone lining, with foil insulation, you will get a hard version of the sauna, which does more harm than good.

We have two articles in which we analyze the types of foil and the arguments for and against its use in the bathhouse - the choice of insulation with or without foil, types of foil and arguments.

About insulation and vapor barrier

The most important and basic thing for a steam room is that it should retain heat very well

At any time of the year, there must be the required temperature inside the steam room. If the vapor barrier is not completed, the steam leaves the room through the walls, after which condensation forms between the walls and the finish. As a result, the wood begins to rot and mold forms on it.

A professionally completed installation of insulation and vapor barrier will keep the bathhouse structure in its original form and protect it from destruction.

Also, in a comfortable bathhouse with the thickest walls possible, it is necessary to provide ventilation.

When the human body lacks air, a feeling of dizziness, nausea and weakness appears, this is especially dangerous for people with the initial stage of diseases of the cardiovascular system.

Ventilation is intended for the following purposes.

• Redistribution of air masses in the steam room; Formation of fresh air and its influx. This is especially necessary when using an electric heater as a heating element, since it burns oxygen.

Beautiful examples

You always want the building, behind the walls of which people wash and relax, to be the subject of admiration of friends and neighbors, so that it regularly becomes a place of attraction for spending time together with a friendly company in a friendly atmosphere. Therefore, the choice of layout and design must be approached thoroughly, based on your own sense of beauty and the concept of what a real bathhouse should look like.

• In a bathhouse finished with facing bricks, no one will suspect a “foam block interior”. A building with an attic studio and a spacious covered terrace will look very representative, European-style.
• Even a small bathhouse with a minimal set of functions, finished with siding, can look like a toy and please the eye, decorating the available area.
• A very small bathhouse with a stone finish takes on fabulous features thanks to the large roof, which at the same time turns into a canopy. Such a structure can become a wonderful landmark of the land plot. Thanks to the wooden flooring in front of the building, surrounded by stone, a cozy recreation area appears, protected from the sun and precipitation.

• A plastered, light bathhouse under a red roof, with a large terrace trimmed with red brick, will look both strict and elegant.
• Using siding of different colors, you can emphasize the architectural features of the bathhouse. Thanks to this, even the simplest forms acquire rigor and elegance. An ordinary bathhouse with a small porch will look very impressive on the site. And to achieve this effect, you don’t have to spend a lot of money.
• A small, simple bathhouse in beige and brown tones takes on an original look due to the unusual architectural design of the terrace roof. After water treatments on a warm summer evening, it will be very pleasant to spend time in a friendly conversation in such an open area.

Video review of a foam block bath, see below.

Facade putty

There is another cheapest way to finish a facade made of foam concrete blocks - painting the walls with facade putty:

This putty is produced on a water-emulsion basis. Before use, it is diluted with water in the ratio of 20 kg of putty to 7.5 liters of water. Mix thoroughly until a creamy mass is obtained. To obtain the desired color, an appropriate water-based dye is added to the finished putty.

The putty is applied using a wide brush and roller. It hardens one hour after application to the wall.

As we see, the above options for finishing foam blocks are so diverse that, having examined their features, everyone will be able to choose the best option for themselves, in accordance with financial capabilities and personal preferences. The most important thing is that the foam block is protected, so that the house will be warm and durable.

Based on materials from: https://obustroeno.com/stroitelstvo/120026-otdelka-doma-iz-penoblokov

Using siding

Siding installation diagram.

Siding has long been used for interior finishing work. It has similar technical characteristics to plastic. Only there are much fewer texture and color options. For the most part, it is made in the form of logs, which allows you to create the appearance of a wooden structure. Before installing siding, it is necessary to insulate the walls made of foam concrete. For this you can use the following materials:

• polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• waterproofing film.

The use of these materials will allow for high-quality insulation of the walls of the bathhouse. After insulation, you can proceed to the siding installation process. These works are carried out similarly to the installation of plastic panels. The only difference will be that the fastening must be done only with the help of self-tapping screws. This is due to the fact that siding has more weight, and fastening with a stapler will be unreliable.

The advantage of siding is that it has a denser structure, does not burn and does not lose its color saturation during long-term use. In addition, it does not deform under heavy physical stress.

WALL INSULATION

Much has been said about wall insulation above - it is necessary if you do not want to spend a lot of fuel to maintain the required temperature in the bathhouse and if the thickness of the foam concrete blocks is not enough for your region. Often, when using blocks 20 or 30 centimeters thick, additional insulation is not necessary.

if you heat the bathhouse only in the summer, then 10 centimeters will be enough.

• The most environmentally friendly material for this purpose remains mineral wool, which has other advantages besides the fact that it does not emit harmful substances: it does not grow mold, it does not support combustion and retains heat perfectly.
• In addition to it, there is also cheap polystyrene foam or polystyrene. It is usually glued to the wall, then reinforced with mesh and plaster is placed on top. It can be used for baths, but its vapor permeability is lower than that of mineral wool.
• Bath walls can be insulated with basalt and stone insulation. They have excellent insulating properties, they are also environmentally friendly, non-flammable and (as a plus) mice do not like them.
• Glass wool can also insulate a bathhouse, but it cannot be used on the walls of a steam room - over time it will not withstand its temperatures.

As you can see, the choice of foam blocks as the basis for building a bathhouse has many consequences arising from the characteristics of this material, in particular, its readiness to absorb water. Compliance with the above rules will completely eliminate this drawback. Finishing a bathhouse from foam blocks makes this building material a very suitable option when it comes to choosing materials for building bathhouses.

Find out more: about the construction of baths from foam blocks, about foundations and insulation of foam block bath walls.

Video description

The insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is clearly shown in this video:

Insulation materials

There are many thermal insulation materials on the market that are suitable both for insulating a steam room and for insulating other buildings. Therefore, among them it is worth highlighting those that are suitable specifically for interior work in a bathhouse.

It is worth paying attention to the following characteristics:

• increased fire resistance;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to damage by rodents and insects.

Mineral wool is most often used; it not only meets all of the above properties, but is also easy to install, which is important when faced with the task of making a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands.

There are no special requirements for waterproofing films. But with regard to vapor barrier - yes. Aluminum foil is a cost-effective option, both in terms of cost and installation work. In order for the foil to work correctly, it is necessary to properly insulate the room by gluing all joints with aluminum tape.

Sources of heat loss

At first glance, the window in the steam room is an extra item, but the room with it looks much more comfortable and presentable. To prevent heat from escaping from the room, you need to install the window correctly and use a two- or three-chamber double-glazed window. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide how to make a steam room with or without a window.

Quite a lot of heat can escape through the window in the steam room Source tovarim.ru

Leveling walls with plaster mortar

Any option for indoor wall cladding first of all needs to provide a flat surface, which is especially important for block construction. Surface leveling is carried out by plastering

Such work is carried out in the following order:

Surface preparation. This preliminary procedure includes thoroughly cleaning the wall from dirt, adhering mortar, grease and oil stains. If there are large defects, they must be repaired. Primer. The special composition is applied with a paint brush or roller in a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall.

It is important that it penetrates inside the foam blocks to a depth of about 3-5 mm. Wide seams between blocks are treated with adhesive. Mesh installation

After the primer mass has completely hardened, the entire wall surface of the foam blocks is covered with a mounting mesh. The most commonly used mesh is fiberglass mesh. This element strengthens the finishing coating and, most importantly, ensures adhesion of the plaster. Plastering. The purpose of this operation is to perfectly level the surface. For plastering, it is recommended to use ready-made dry mixtures for interior work based on gypsum or cement. Craftsmen often use their own sand-cement mortar. In this case, they usually stick to a 3:1 ratio. The plastering technology depends on the subsequent cladding. So, when preparing a wall for tiling, one layer of plaster is considered sufficient. If you plan to paint or wallpaper, we recommend two-layer plaster with an outer, finishing layer that provides an ideal surface. In this case, the first layer (main) has a thickness of 2-3 cm, and the leveling, top layer is 10-12 mm.

Project

Just as for any construction, before you start building a bathhouse, you need to choose a location, carefully plan, select and calculate the necessary material. Also find out what the roof will be like, for example, pitched.

It is advisable to immediately imagine what you want to see in the layout of your bathhouse. In the classic version, the drawings of almost all baths include a steam room and a sink; a relaxation room is also desirable. In different cases, areas are distributed according to emerging requests. There may be options with a large steam room and a small sink, also with reverse distribution, a large relaxation room is possible and many other options.

Choosing the appropriate option will not be difficult. Each person has his own idea of ​​the functionality, proper use and organization of the premises of the building being built.

Particular attention should be paid to the construction of the vestibule if you plan to use the bathhouse for its intended purpose in winter

Also, the location of the doors is of no small importance; they must be planned so as not to take up too much space.

The stove must be selected taking into account the volume of the steam room, not forgetting that it is usually heated from the dressing room, therefore, part of the heat is spent on heating it. Based on these parameters, the furnace power is selected.

Currently, the bathhouse serves not only for washing, it is often used for emotional and psychological relief. Based on the requirements, a construction project is selected and implemented.

It may include not only the classic set: steam room, wash room, locker room, but it may also include the premises of a relaxation room, terrace, attic, swimming pool.

The most economical option would be to implement a project to build a bathhouse with three rooms.

There are a great variety of bathhouse designs, the most common of which are those where the rest room is combined with a locker room. At the same time, it is advisable to make it larger than other rooms, due to the placement of the necessary furniture in it.

Plans for bathhouses with terraces are very common. The terraces are equipped with the necessary furniture in the form of chairs and tables, barbecues and barbecue ovens are installed. The building is built under a single roof and has an appropriate design. Instead of a terrace, you can add, for example, a garage or another extension. The original idea is a country house combined with a bathhouse building.

Quite often, an attic is built as a second or third floor. This two-story building can be used as living or guest rooms or for relaxation after procedures. Such structures can also be one-story. The most commonly used sizes are 6 by 4, 3 by 5, and 6x6 meters.

You need to approach the selection of a construction site with all responsibility. The site must comply with all fire safety rules and the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97.

Based on these requirements, the building must be located at a distance of one meter from the fence, while the distance to the neighboring house must be at least eight meters, including five meters to the border of the site.

What is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside?

The choice of material type depends on the style direction. A modern manufacturer offers ample opportunities to create a unique interior of a bath complex.

Plastic panels

Washing area finished with plastic panels.
They are produced wide (wall panels) and narrow (lining).

The advantages of this material are as follows:

• Moisture resistance.
• Variety of colors and styles.
• Easy to install.
• Affordable price.
• Durability.

For a bathhouse made of foam blocks, interior finishing with plastic is not the best option.

The disadvantages of panels include:

• Poor resistance to surface damage.
• High level of fire hazard.
• Low vapor absorption.

Combined wood and decorative stone finishing.

PVC siding

The properties of this material are similar to plastic and have the same advantages, but it has two more main advantages that expand its scope of use:

Fire safety.

Siding is not susceptible to fire even when in contact with an open fire.

Surface strength.

He is not afraid of accidental damage or scratches with sharp objects. In addition, it is plastic, thanks to this property you can successfully hide uneven walls.

Decorating walls with siding is simple and affordable, it can be easily done with your own hands, and the variety of colors available and the cost of the material will suit the taste and wallet of the most demanding buyer.

Ceramic tile

Finishing the bath with mosaic tiles.

Tiles can be called an ideal material for covering surfaces in damp rooms, such as a sink or steam room.

Its advantages are obvious:

• Moisture resistance. The specially treated surface of the tile does not absorb moisture at all.
• Resistance to elevated temperatures. Modern technologies make it possible to produce heat-resistant tiles that are used to line fireplaces and stoves.
• Strength and durability. Properly laid material will serve for many years without changing its qualities and appearance; it is almost impossible to accidentally break a tile; in the worst case, you can break off a piece.
• Resistance to fire and aggressive chemical environments. The walls can be washed with any household cleaning products, and there is no fear of fire.
• Eco-friendly and hygienic. The tiles are made from natural materials; mold and microorganisms do not form on its surface.

For the flooring, porcelain tiles are used, which are thicker and stronger than wall tiles. The instructions for laying the material require the use of moisture-resistant glue and the same grout for the seams in order to avoid washing out or the formation of fungus between the tile seams.

Finishing with a pair of wooden clapboards.

A wide range of sizes, colors, and types of processing allows you to choose a collection for any interior.

Tree

It is generally accepted that the best bathhouse is one made of foam blocks, the walls of which are decorated with wooden slats (lining). And although wood does not have many of the advantages inherent in other materials, consumers still often prefer it.

What qualities of wood attract builders:

• Vapor permeability. In a bathhouse lined with wood, the steam is drier, the air is cleaner, and the walls “breathe.”
• Low thermal conductivity. The well-processed smooth surface of the boards is pleasant to the touch and has an ambient temperature.
• Environmental friendliness. Being in a steam room with walls decorated with natural wood is not only pleasant, but also useful. The essential oils released by wood have a beneficial effect on health.
• The beauty of wood texture.

Steam room covered with clapboard.

Aspen, linden, and alder are used for cladding the steam room. These rocks are resistant to deformation and do not crack due to temperature changes; in addition, they have healing properties that increase when heated. The sink and rest room can be decorated with larch, pine, and cedar.

Criteria for choosing material for finishing

When choosing finishing materials, you should be guided by the following parameters:

1. Waterproofing.

Wall cladding must be resistant to high humidity and steam.

1. Resistance to high thermal loads.

During operation, there should be no warping, cracking or deformation of the cladding.

Bath finishing materials

1. Fire safety.

You need to choose a material that will not catch fire even when in contact with an open flame.

1. Environmentally friendly.

It is better to use natural materials that do not emit harmful or toxic substances at high temperatures.

1. Strength and durability.

The interior decoration of a bathhouse made of foam blocks is not done for one year. These criteria determine how often it will require repairs, so choose a cladding that is less susceptible to mechanical, chemical and thermal damage.

1. Smooth surface.

Caring for a corrugated or ribbed surface is quite problematic, and nicks or chips can be harmful to health. When purchasing, pay attention to the appearance of the material.

Construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks

We build a bathhouse from foam blocks ourselves and choose the appropriate project and construction technology. The construction of a bathhouse from foam blocks is close in quality to wooden construction. They provide a high level of warmth, allow air to pass through for natural ventilation, and are easy to cut and drill with almost the same tools as wood.

The peculiarity of building a bathhouse from foam blocks is that the building necessarily needs external finishing, since foam concrete is not a decorative material. Due to the fact that foam concrete is a porous material, fixing finishing materials is not difficult. There are options when you build a bathhouse yourself from other materials, and foam concrete is used to make internal partitions as a reliable sound insulator.

What materials are suitable for insulating a bath?

1. In order to retain heat in a heated bathhouse for a long time, it is necessary to insulate the walls of the bathhouse on both sides. Insulation materials for internal thermal insulation must be environmentally friendly and meet sanitary standards.
2. Insulation based on mineral wool has a low thermal conductivity. It is highly hygroscopic and therefore requires reliable waterproofing. Its use is undesirable for interior decoration. When exposed to high temperatures, mineral wool releases harmful substances. When using mineral wool indoors, waterproofing is necessary not only to protect the material from moisture, but also as a barrier against harmful fumes entering the room.
3. Polystyrene also releases harmful substances when heated. For this reason, it is not used for internal thermal insulation of baths.
4. Finnish sauna insulation SPU Sauna-Satu has high thermal insulation ability. Produced in slabs measuring 600x1200 mm. Thickness 30 mm. The material does not support combustion. Does not absorb moisture. Due to the fact that the material does not produce harmful fumes when heated, SPU Sauna-Satu insulation is recommended for indoor use. In particular, for finishing steam rooms and saunas. Installation is carried out directly on the wall without lathing.
5. Insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the outside has the goal of protecting the building structure from atmospheric influences - cold air and precipitation. The insulation method is chosen depending on the building materials from which the bathhouse is built. Almost any type of insulation is suitable for external insulation.
6. To insulate the walls of a frame bath, you should choose a material with low weight so as not to create excessive load on the walls.
7. Foiled thermal insulation Penotherm NPP LF is produced especially for finishing the steam room. This insulation is made of NPP foamed polypropylene, laminated on one side with aluminum foil. Combines the qualities of heat and waterproofing. The material is resistant to high temperatures. Has a thickness from 3 to 10 mm.
8. To insulate brick walls, which has high thermal conductivity, you will need material 8-100 mm thick. For wooden baths, insulation with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm is suitable.
9. Special materials are used for vapor and waterproofing. The GEXA company produces Izospan films and membranes. Proper waterproofing helps preserve the properties of the insulation and prevents the formation of condensation.

Finishing a bathhouse made of foam blocks with siding

The siding is attached in the following sequence:

Using wooden blocks, make a sheathing consisting of horizontal and vertical bars. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam as insulation.

When installing siding, it is important to leave voids between the panels, since the material is subject to compression and expansion under the influence of temperature changes. Once the sheathing is installed, attach siding corners at the corners.

Subsequently, the panels must be attached to them one by one. The panels are connected to each other using rectangular holes. Attach the launch panel first, then the main panel and all subsequent ones.

Exterior finishing

When decorating the outside of a building, in addition to making it beautiful, it is also necessary to carry out external hydro- and thermal insulation work. Moreover, the principle of action here is the same as inside. Using a wooden frame, a heat-insulating layer is formed around the building box and waterproofing is created. Variations are possible in the use of materials that will directly determine the appearance of the bathhouse.

It can be finished with plastic or metal siding. This is a very common way to give a building a nice, elegant look.

It is based on galvanized steel or aluminum. Such material always decorates the facade.

This finishing material is not afraid of temperature changes, does not rot and does not attract the attention of living creatures as food. Despite the fact that it is not classified as flammable, it can melt in a fire. It can be mounted on the wall either vertically or horizontally.

It also makes sense to use ceramic siding, which is made from fiber cement. He is immune to fire and frost. Externally imitates other materials. If you want to have a traditional-looking bathhouse, you can just choose siding that looks like brick, wood or stone. Those who have used this material in construction claim that it does not fade for a very long time. And such finishing will last up to thirty years.

Although no one forbids using real facing bricks to give a foam block bath a decent appearance. We must keep in mind that it will be more expensive, and it is much more difficult for a non-professional builder to cope with such work on his own.

Since the basement of the building gets very hot in the summer, and at other times gets wet from rain and snow, the use of this particular material in this case is not without reason.

If you don’t want to use siding for the exterior decoration of the bathhouse, you can use a special lining that imitates timber. Its width is fifteen centimeters with a thickness of one centimeter. In such “clothes” the bathhouse will look like a building built from real timber.

A material that imitates a cylindrical beam is a blockhouse. This is a natural material that goes through a drying stage even at the manufacturing stage. Its humidity level at the time of sale should be no more than twelve percent.

Thanks to any of these materials, a bathhouse created from gray foam blocks will get a quite representative or even traditional look.

Roof cladding

To finish the roof in a steam room, it is advisable to use corrugated sheets. This material is made from high quality galvanized sheet steel. At the production stage, each sheet is processed in roll forming machines. The corrugated sheet is protected from corrosion by a galvanized layer.

Stages of building a bathhouse roof from corrugated sheets:

1. A sling system is installed.
2. A sheathing is installed, which is coated with an antiseptic compound that protects the product from rotting under the influence of moist air and high temperature.
3. Wooden surfaces are coated with paint that has fire retardant properties.
4. Thermal insulation is being installed. This ensures protection of the corrugated sheet from sudden changes in temperature.
5. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the thermal insulation, protecting the insulation from the accumulation of moisture as a result of the appearance of condensation on the inner surface of the profiled sheet. When choosing this element, you must carefully examine its structure.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: Materials for insulation

When choosing a material for building a bathhouse, not only its thermal insulation properties are taken into account, but also its environmental friendliness, fire resistance, and water resistance. The class of materials for insulating buildings such as bathhouses is quite wide. It includes products based on natural components and modern high-tech artificial materials.

Insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside: General principles. The right "pie"

IMPORTANT! Before starting insulation work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

1. seal cracks, grooves, joints;
2. treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic.

After this, they proceed directly to insulating the walls. The arrangement of materials and structures follows the principle of a layer cake. In general, the “pie” looks like this:

1. bath wall with fixed bars;
2. heat insulator;
3. material that does not allow steam to pass through;
4. sheathing that holds the previous layers;
5. clapboard upholstery.

Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: diagram

The method of fastening the bars depends on the walls of the bathhouse. The sheathing must be dry and treated with an antiseptic. The location of the bars and their thickness depends on the size of the heat insulator. How to fill the bars depends on how the lining will be fixed: horizontally or vertically. Between the bars you need to make the distance one centimeter less than the size of the insulation.

Aluminum foil is usually used as a vapor barrier. If foil material is chosen as a heat insulator, no additional vapor barrier is required.

The joints of the foil must be sealed with metallized tape. When using complex insulation, the bars are also glued with tape.

The last element of the “pie” is the sheathing for the interior decoration. The thickness of the lathing is usually 20 millimeters. The sheathing material is treated with an antiseptic compound and secured with galvanized screws.

IMPORTANT! For the interior decoration of the bathhouse, it is customary to use soft wood species: alder, linden, cedar, aspen. The surface of the lining is carefully processed to remove chips, burrs, and creases.

The wood is not treated with chemicals, which under high temperatures can evaporate and accumulate in the air.

The most effective are foil materials that combine the properties of a heat and vapor barrier. The use of roofing felt or glassine is hazardous to health. When heated, these materials release harmful substances into the air.

The vapor barrier is placed overlapping with mandatory gluing of the joints. After completion of the work, the room should be closed for steam and heat.

Tip: If you need to insulate the walls. Be sure to measure the heat insulator yourself before installation. During transportation, compression and creasing of the material is possible. If there is a loose arrangement between the bars, there will be gaps through which cold air will pass and thermal energy will escape.

You may also find it useful:

• How to insulate a bathhouse from foam blocks: inside and out. Don't let the walls crumble
• Insulating the walls of a frame bath: the right “pie”

https://youtube.com/watch?v=lTo1b9Jvdmo

Finishing and arrangement

For finishing you should choose a suitable tree. We are talking about oak, cedar, larch or linden. The sheathing should not be made of resinous species such as pine. Before installation inside, it is better to treat the wood with oily substances. Such impregnation will reduce the hygroscopicity of the material. Decorating with clapboard starts from the ceiling. It is mounted on the sheathing using a tongue and groove mechanism or secured using clamps.

When the lining is mounted on the ceiling, work begins with the walls. The covering will go in parallel with the installation of shelves and will occur in a certain sequence. First, use a level to mark the surface of the walls. At the same time, markings are being made on how the sunbeds with all the elements, including backrests, will be placed.

After this, the side and front parts of the shelves are covered. After this, the remaining walls are sheathed. Now all that remains is to install the skirting boards, both ceiling and floor. Sheathing parts are usually used only in a special case, if at the joints they are fitted one under the other very sloppily. It should be said that this point must be approached carefully, because moisture may begin to collect in the gaps, which may cause the development of fungus and mold in these places.

Already at the end of the work, doors are installed, as well as various lamps and fixtures. The wires must be carefully insulated so that moisture does not get on them and a short circuit does not occur with subsequent fire.

It should be noted that the most beautiful bathhouses come from those who want to introduce some of their own ideas into it and do something non-standard. And a steam room is a room where any material can become a work of art, be it wood, stone or metal. The main thing is that your imagination and finances allow you to realize your ideas.

You can make a steam room with your own hands, although this requires a considerable amount of knowledge. At the same time, if you do everything really correctly, then you can be sure that it will turn out just as good as if you ordered the development of the project and its subsequent implementation from professional builders. In addition, the technology for independently creating such a building has already been tested by more than one person and has proven its high quality and viability. In general, if you want to build a steam room with your own hands, then thanks to the knowledge described above, you can implement such an idea without any problems.

Care Tips

In order for a bathhouse to serve its owners for many years and decades, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules. Some of them are common to any building:

• maintaining cleanliness and order;
• timely restoration of paintwork;
• necessary routine repairs.

The other has a specific “bath” character:

• ventilation and drying of the steam room after use;
• timely culling and replacement of stones in the heater;
• cleaning the stove and chimney from soot.

The last point can be implemented “with your own hands” without inviting a professional chimney sweep. In order to use the bathhouse for its intended purpose, it is enough to heat the stove with aspen wood during the breaks between fires. According to experts, aspen firewood perfectly cleans the stove and chimney of soot deposits.

Do-it-yourself lining of the steam room with clapboard

There should be an air pocket between the foil and the clapboard.
You can finish the inside of the bathhouse with your own hands, following the instructions for installing the casing. This is a step by step process:

1. waterproofing is fixed;
2. a wooden frame is installed;
3. Thermal insulation of walls and ceilings is carried out;
4. foil is stretched as a vapor barrier;
5. the lining is attached.

Before clapboarding the steam room and other rooms in the bathhouse, the direction of placement of the slats is decided. The decor can be vertical and horizontal. In the first case, the height of the room visually increases, the joints of the boards are hardly noticeable, and it is easier and faster to install the slats. The disadvantage of this method is that it may be difficult to replace the lamellas. In the lower part of the room the humidity is always higher, so the lining can deteriorate. During repairs it will be necessary to saw off the lower part of the lining. Experts recommend the vertical method for the rest room.

When installed horizontally, the products are positioned with the tenon facing upward, which reduces the likelihood of moisture getting inside the finish. This method involves vertical installation of the sheathing, ensuring free air circulation to ventilate the room. If the lower strips are damaged, they can be easily replaced without disturbing the overall design.

Ways to fasten the lining

The lining is attached to the sheathing using self-tapping screws.
The planks are fixed in two main ways:

• Clamps are a safe fastening option using a special bracket with holes that is placed on a groove. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bracket; they touch the wood and do not damage its surface. Clamps are made of steel or galvanized iron.
• Nails or self-tapping screws - fastening is carried out using open and hidden methods. The first option is simple to implement, but less aesthetically pleasing, and there is also a risk of getting burned by a heated nail. For hidden installation, the fasteners are driven into the lining tenon. To prevent the board from cracking, a hole is pre-drilled. Self-tapping screws are screwed in using the same pattern. The optimal length of nails is 50-60 mm.

The fastener must be invisible and resistant to moisture. It is recommended to use zinc coated nails and screws. When working with nails, it is better to use an air gun.

Sheathing device

Installing the frame allows you to place the insulation and create a ventilation gap between it and the sheathing, in which air will circulate. The sheathing is made only from wooden beams. The cross-section of lumber depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation, on average it is 20×50 mm. First, a waterproofing sheet is nailed to the walls. Then, starting from the corner, the bars are filled in increments of 50-60 cm. The lumber is pre-treated with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

You can use coniferous timber; the resin it produces will not create any inconvenience. The guides are secured with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The lathing is leveled to create an even finishing layer. The timber under the lining is packed perpendicular to the direction of the boards.

Insulation of bath walls and ceilings

The insulation is placed in the joists between two layers of vapor barrier.
You can start improving the room with insulation. The best option for thermal insulation is basalt wool. Fiber boards do not burn, have a water-repellent impregnation, are easy to lay, and can withstand temperatures up to 1000°C. Manufacturers of mineral wool offer series specially designed for these purposes: warm Knauf bath, Rockwool sauna batts. The slabs are cut with a knife; the recommended width is 2 cm greater than the pitch of the sheathing. In this case, the insulation will fit tightly into the frame. Laying the wool begins from the floor, the layers overlap each other.

Upon completion of installation, the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier fabric that protects from moisture. Foil works best for this. The material is attached to the sheathing with a stapler, the canvases are laid with an overlap of up to 10 cm, and must be glued with metallized tape.

To insulate rooms, polyurethane foam boards with double-sided foil coating are used. They do not absorb moisture, have a small thickness, and reflect heat. The material is glued to the walls, forming a solid covering, and is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. The seams are sealed with polyurethane foam. Thermal insulation does not require additional installation of a sheet that prevents getting wet. At the stage of wall insulation, ventilation is installed. You need to cut two holes for it: one under the ceiling, the second 15-20 cm from the floor. An aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm is suitable for the air duct.

Finishing near the stove in the steam room

It is advisable to make a brick screen near the metal stove.
The stove serves as a heat source in the steam room; the bulk of the heat occurs in the sections of the wall closest to it. If the lining is placed close to each other, the material may char or catch fire. To prevent problems, the stove is installed at a certain distance:

• metal – 100 cm;
• metal lined with brick – 70 cm;
• brick – 32 cm.

A good choice would be to install a protective screen made of brick or metal, install stainless steel casing, ceramic tiles, or porcelain tiles near the stove.

Wall cladding

Before sheathing the inside of a bathhouse or sauna with clapboards, you need to bring the lumber into the room to adapt to the microclimate. Over the course of a day, the tree acclimatizes to the level of temperature and humidity. The finishing of the steam room starts from the ceiling, then the walls are sheathed. The first board must be mounted at a distance of 20 mm from the wall, this distance is necessary for the free expansion of the wood when heated. The remaining planks are mounted close to each other. To fix the locking connection, the parts are tapped with a mallet with a rubber tip.

First, one end of the lining is nailed, after checking the level, the rest of the part is fastened. Wall and ceiling cladding is performed using the same technology. You need to separate the room from the door. When installed horizontally, the lining is installed from bottom to top, and when installed vertically, from right to left. When fixing the first plank, 20 mm are removed from the floor so that moisture does not rise along the board. The gaps are subsequently closed with decorative elements.

Finishing

In order for the finish to retain its original decorative appearance for a long time, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic composition. These can be water-based products, acrylic varnish, wood oil. All preparations have special markings - for baths and saunas. Such compositions protect boards from moisture and rotting, while not releasing toxic substances. All wooden parts are processed, including the frame. Preliminary application of primer allows you to reduce the consumption of varnish and stain.

Typical projects with photos and drawings

In order to choose a suitable project for a bathhouse made of foam blocks, you must first decide on the site that is at your disposal, as well as what you expect from your structure. Meticulous planning is a mandatory item in the “preparatory” program, but if you do not want to deal with the distribution of key zones, then use ready-made projects. They already provide for the separation of a sink and a steam room, and there is also an allocation of space for a relaxation room, a dressing room, and in some cases a veranda. Information on how many foam blocks are needed for a bath is in each size section.

3x3

How many foam blocks are needed: 134 pcs. (4.82 cubic meters)

Project options for those who want to build a compact bathhouse. Both separate washing and steam rooms are allowed, as well as combining two zones into one.

4x4

How many foam blocks are needed: 196 pcs. (7.06 cubic meters)

A selection of bathhouse projects with one of the most common sizes. The square base allows you to make good use of every centimeter of usable space.

3x4

How many foam blocks are needed: 172 pcs. (6.19 cubic meters)

A very viable rectangular and quite compact solution will undoubtedly appeal to those who do not have a reserve of square meters at their disposal.

6x4

How many foam blocks are needed: 245 pcs. (8.82 cubic meters)

An excellent selection of bathhouse projects that provide literally everything: a spacious dressing room, a relaxation room, and a veranda. The layout of bathhouses with an attic allows you to include in some cases a games room with a billiard table.

5x5

How many foam blocks are needed: 267 pcs. (9.61 cubic meters)

A project with the placement of functional areas for a spacious square bath.

Beginning of work

Installation begins with determining the amount of material required. When calculating the perimeter of a room, it is important to subtract doors and windows. Don't forget about the ceiling - it is also lined with clapboard. It is also necessary to account for a small percentage of defects: the boards can break and are easy to cut incorrectly.

Lathing

The lining will be attached to the sheathing - a frame that runs along all surfaces of the bathhouse. The sheathing is made of bars, the cross-section of which has the shape of a square or rectangle. You can use slats from any wood. Even if the frame is made of coniferous wood, the resin will not leak out.

The minimum thickness of the frame should be 3 cm - this will allow air to easily pass between the wall and the sheathing. The thickness should be greater than the thickness of the insulating material so as not to interfere with air flow. It is better to choose slats with a width of at least 5 cm, so that it is more convenient to attach the lining to them.