Damper tape: what is it, purpose, types, application

Life is full of examples when something grandiose, monumental holds or works thanks to small details that non-specialists are unlikely to know about. For example, in construction, when pouring screed, a technological gap is needed. Which of the home craftsmen knew about this before they climbed onto the World Wide Web in search of appropriate instructions. That's right - units.

And why should they know - they are not professional builders. Although the “pros” often screw up: either they will forget about the problem, or they will deliberately ignore it in order to speed up the work. And those who knew previously used wooden slats or pieces of reinforcement (then removed), pieces of linoleum or bubble polyethylene from packaging to maintain the distance between the main wall and the screed. Manufacturers of building materials knew firsthand about the constantly emerging difficulties. The problem was solved simply: they began to produce a special damper tape for floor screed.

The editors of the StroyGuru portal decided to help all those who carry out repair and construction work at home with their own hands: tell what damper tape is, why it is needed, what varieties can be found on sale, how to choose the right one and attach it to the wall. Let's talk about manufacturers and prices.

What is it and why is it needed

Hardened cement-sand mortar has one unpleasant property - it expands under the influence of temperature and humidity. The screed also has it. It “breathes” both in height and width. In this case, the linear dimensions in length/width vary within 0.5 mm per 1 m2, but not more than 1.0 cm in total.

But even an expansion of 2-3 mm is enough for the screed to either collapse itself or damage the wall. A layer of material that can dampen (extinguish) the breathing of cement stone saves from the destructive consequences.

The builders forgot about the damper tape.

Definition

The word damper came into the Russian language from Germany. There “Dämpfer” - muffler, shock absorber, from the verb “dämpfen” - to muffle. Therefore, in a general sense, a damper device is understood as anything capable of preventing vibrations that occur in machines, devices, systems or structures during their operation.

Taken in a narrow sense, a damper tape (sometimes called edge or compensation tape) is a specially made strip of elastic material that can compensate for the linear expansion of concrete and other building materials under the influence of moisture and temperature.

If this definition is translated into a simple language understandable to a non-specialist, then the tape should be understood as a voluminous, plastic material that can compress when the screed expands and recover when its size decreases, while constantly maintaining some gap between the wall and the expanding cement stone.

Functions

The main task of the damper tape is to ensure free expansion of the screed. Those. A plastic strip of material several millimeters thick, fixed along the perimeter of the walls, creates a technological compensation gap that allows maintaining the integrity of the surface layer of the poured base for the finishing floor covering.

In addition to the main function, there are a number of auxiliary tasks that are no less important for apartment owners:

• creation in certain areas of a restrictive barrier for the solution, a kind of formwork;
• organization of additional hydro- and thermal protection at the joints between the floor and walls;
• strengthening sound insulation in the most vulnerable areas of the house that transmit structural noise;
• absorption of microvibration of walls due to mechanisms operating in the building, such as forced ventilation or an elevator - are not transmitted to the floor, but through it to a person;
• In some cases, leveling the walls and the base of the floor, at the joints between them, under the screed.

It is a mistake to think that the compensation layer is needed solely for the screed. The increased popularity of plasterboard walls and partitions has shown that gypsum plasterboard also expands and is destroyed without a special strip under the guide profile. This strip is called profile damper tape.

What is it for?

Since there is no mention of damper tape in SNiP, we can only talk about what this polyethylene strip is needed for as a recommendation. Therefore, the use of a compensator is desirable:

• when pouring cement-sand screed, wet and semi-dry;
• when filling expanded clay to level the floor (dry screed);
• when heating floor coverings made of tiles, porcelain stoneware, laminate, linoleum using water and cable “warm floor” systems;
• creating blind areas outside the building.

In large rooms, the compensating gap along the walls is not enough. It is placed in the middle of the screed at certain intervals using a T-shaped strip of polyethylene foam. You also need a damper tape for the self-leveling floor. Don't forget about the tape for the drywall profile.

Advantages

The advantages of this product compared to other materials are related to the technical and operational characteristics of foamed polyethylene:

• excellent sound and heat insulation qualities, vibration absorption;
• high levels of moisture resistance and moisture resistance - characteristics that are of particular importance for floors;
• absence of linear deformation due to changes in temperature and moisture;
• plasticity: foamed polyethylene is able to compress and recover without tearing, so concrete can expand without negative consequences;
• complete tightness and strength;
• no rotting, biological stability;
• durability;
• easy installation.

In addition, this material is distinguished by a high degree of environmental friendliness, so it is absolutely safe for use in residential areas.

What is it made from?

Ideally, the damper edge tape should have the following characteristics:

• have a low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• have good plasticity, allowing volume to be restored after compression, which, however, is not important. After all, after the screed has set, the damper can be removed;
• do not be afraid of moisture, do not absorb it, so as not to create a favorable environment for the growth of mold and mildew;
• be light and easy to use.

All these qualities are fully manifested in tapes made of foamed polyethylene, which can be chemically cross-linked (PPE or HPPE) and non-cross-linked (NPE). Both materials have similar technical and operational indicators, which affects prices. They are almost equal.

On sale you can find tape made from densely woven polyester fibers, as well as from foamed synthetic rubber. The tape is sold in rolls of 10, 15, 20, 30, 50 and 100 m in length. It can be in the range of 3-10 mm in thickness, 8-15 cm in width. The widest, 150 mm, is a damper tape for warm floor.

Possible alternative

During installation and operation, a number of problems and difficulties may arise. In most cases, this is due to insufficient preparation of the premises. To minimize technology violations, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the advice of specialists.

Often the factory tape may not be available. But to ensure the safety of the coating, its closest analogue should be installed. How to replace the damper tape in this case? The main selection criterion is the material of manufacture. Foamed polyethylene can be replaced with similar polymer compositions.

Most often, penofol is used for this. Its main disadvantage is its small thickness, which cannot provide the required minimum clearance. The multilayer gasket option will be impractical. Over time, the layers may lose their original location, resulting in changes in thickness in certain areas.

Installation of wooden blocks is also not recommended. They have the following disadvantages, which will be reflected in the properties of the entire coating:

• Changes in geometry under the influence of humidity. Fibers have the ability to absorb water;
• Possibility of mold and mildew. This is characteristic of almost all natural materials;
• Short service life due to the factors described above.

The alternative material must have sufficient flexibility, but at the same time return to its original dimensions after the end of exposure to the surface. Installing foam edges will not produce the desired result.

Is it possible to do without it?

Some experts argue that expansion tape is only needed for floating screeds. If the CPR is poured directly onto a rigid base, for example, in a garage on a concrete floor slab, then you can do without a damper tape. It is not needed for self-leveling floors with a thin layer of self-leveling mixture.

Let's try to figure out whether a damping strip is needed in the listed cases. Let's start with the screed. Let's not theorize, but refer to accumulated experience. There is no need to go far - look at what is happening (or was happening) with the screed in houses built in the 80s of the last century: CPR was poured directly onto the floor slabs without a damper tape (it began to be widely used in the late 90s). After a few years, the layer of mortar crumbled, in most cases in the heating area. Fortunately, there is linoleum on top, which is not critical for the floor covering.

The argument about thin self-leveling floors is also unclear. For thick people it is necessary, for thin people it is not. Where is the logic? After all, linear expansion in length/width does not depend on the thickness of the concrete. It is always equal to 0.1 mm per 1 m of length when the temperature increases by 1oC. Let us especially emphasize - at +1oС.

Where you really don't need a damper tape:

• frame houses. The walls there are not concrete or brick, and the screeds do not provide resistance to linear expansion;
• The thermal insulation is made with rolled materials extending onto the walls to the thickness of the CPS filling - they act as a shock absorber.

Conclusion: damper tape is always needed for hard walls. The owner of a house or apartment can refuse the compensation gap only at his own peril and risk.

As for the damper tape for the profile under plasterboard, in the bathroom when installing a false wall (box), it is required. When installing interior walls, it is advisable to lay. But nothing bad will happen if the owners refuse to use the compensator strip.

Edge tape for self-leveling floor: features of selection and installation – Floor School

• General concepts
• Assembly of the deformation belt
• Production

Installing a self-leveling floor is not easy and requires the use of special materials. In addition to the precise execution of the liner filling technology itself, it is also necessary to be able to correctly use additional devices.

One such device is a self-leveling floor deformation belt. As if, at first glance, an insignificant element of such a complex composition was needed to ensure the safety of the entire coating.

Many masters, in their opinion, skip this minor step in order to save time. But let's take a closer look at the need for this stage of work.

General concepts

The component material is polyethylene foam, the structure is homogeneous.

Characteristics of the material itself:

• not susceptible to rotting and fungi;
• does not change under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• ease of installation.

The classic factory product has the following dimensions:

• height - 150 mm;
• thickness up to 8 mm,
• coil length from 10 to 20 m.

Usually done in grey, blue or white.

For ease of use, it is divided into 10 mm sections, which makes it easier to remove unnecessary parts after filling the floor of an apartment or house.

But is a damper tape needed for a self-leveling floor? To reliably answer this question, let's consider its functions.

Functions

The use of edge tape is widespread in construction.

We will consider its use only when installing flooded floors.

Secure the tape with your own hands

• Seals joints, blocking moisture ingress. By itself it is not subject to rotting.
• Increases the strength and reliability of the floor surface.
• Reduces thermal conductivity due to its closed cell structure. Thanks to this, you can significantly save on heating costs.
• Seal any gaps. This also increases the sound insulation of the room.
• Compensates for the pressure of the concrete layer on the walls in case of inevitable expansion after pouring. This allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks, and given the characteristics of self-leveling floors in an apartment or house, such deformations are simply catastrophic.

Is it possible to replace it with something?

To save money, the damper tape can be replaced. Suitable for this:

• wooden slats;
• strip of plywood;
• trimmings of linoleum and polymer materials;
• Styrofoam;
• wooden strip wrapped in plastic film - allows you to remove the strip. Without film, wood is difficult to remove. In most cases, it remains and takes on the pressure of the screed.

There is a lot of criticism of these materials from experts. But it is baseless. After all, the damper can simply be removed and the gap closed with a plinth.

Briefly about the main thing

Now you know what a damper tape for floor screed is, what it is needed for, what it is made from and what functions it performs. Its main purpose is to compensate for the movements of a floating concrete screed or self-leveling floor, and to serve as a shock absorber between them and adjacent surfaces. The material is sold in the form of rolls of different thicknesses and widths, fixed along the bottom of the walls or separates screed sectors with different heating circuits. Mounted using an adhesive layer or mechanical fasteners. You can replace the tape with similar materials cut into strips - isolon, penofol, laminate backing.

Advantages and disadvantages

The damper tape has a number of significant advantages:

• durability - the service life is comparable to the service life of the screed;
• elasticity - volume and geometric dimensions are restored when the load is removed;
• good thermal insulation properties - thermal conductivity coefficient no more than 0.035 W/(m*K);
• ability to cut off structural noise;
• environmental safety - does not emit harmful substances when heated, is not an allergen;
• the material does not rot or decompose;
• low moisture absorption - picks up no more than 2% water per day;
• simple fastening;
• affordable price.

Among the disadvantages is flammability.

Classification of damper tapes

Damper tape can be classified according to two criteria:

• method of fastening;
• according to release form.

Mounting method. According to the method of fastening to the wall, there is a simple (sometimes called standard) tape and self-adhesive. Simple tapes can be fastened with all available means: hot-melt adhesive, double-sided tape, staples, self-tapping screws, piles of cement mortar. The “self-adhesive” has a strip of glue in the middle, covered with a film.

According to the form. There are 4 types of tape based on shape:

• regular;
• with a “skirt” (basque);
• L-shaped or with a notch in the middle;
• T-shaped.

Regular strip. Conventional tape is a single strip of polyethylene foam. It can be standard or self-adhesive, different in width and height. Widely used in private construction: attached vertically to walls, pipes, columns, partitions.

Ribbon with peplum. The damper consists of two parts: a regular tape and a glued bottom, a “skirt,” made of polyethylene film 3-10 cm wide. The purpose of the basque is additional waterproofing of the joints between the base of the floor and the wall and preventing the solution from flowing under the bottom of the tape.

It is used when pouring screed in the bathroom and bathhouse (prevents water leakage near the walls) and installing cable “warm floors”. From the purpose it is already clear that the dense part is attached to the wall, and the plastic film is laid on the floor. It can be with or without an adhesive strip.

L-shaped. On a regular tape, only wider, manufacturers make a cut, which allows the strip to be bent. The wider part of the strip should be attached to the wall, the shorter part should be laid on the base of the floor, similar to a strip with a peplum. Prevents the CPR from getting under the lower edge of the damper.

T-shaped. The use of T-shaped expansion joints in private construction is limited. This is an inter-circuit damper tape that divides a large screed into parts when it is necessary to relieve stress in the concrete in the middle of the floor. Laying is carried out with a pouring area of ​​more than 40 m2.

Application of compensation edge material

Do you need a damper tape for the screed? Definitely yes. But is it necessary for a self-leveling floor? Its “work” is related to the design features of the floating floor; as for the self-leveling or leveling mass, they belong to the contact types of subfloor leveling. That is why the use of a compensator in such conditions is not at all necessary.

In addition to its main function, the expansion compensator also acts as a restraining barrier for the spreading solution.

It is also used for external work when constructing a blind area. With sharp temperature fluctuations, the soil underneath begins to swell, and cracks and crevices form on the concrete over time. Therefore, a damper tape is placed in the expansion joint at the junction of the blind area and the walls. The same applies to sedimentary seams running across the blind area. The material compacts and fills excess gaps. It absorbs all kinds of vibrations, thereby compensating for vibrations.

Recommendations for selection

Damper tape is an ideal object for counterfeiting. A student can print (download and then print on a color printer) the insert. Cutting the tape itself from the roll backing is just as easy. Roll it up and seal it in cellophane - no problem. Therefore, when shopping for goods, you need to study some nuances.

• While at home, you need to decide on the width and thickness of the tape, as well as its appearance.
• The tape must be in undamaged packaging, box (packed by European manufacturers) or film. This will protect you from many troubles.
• If the packaging is damaged, the following steps should be taken:

1. ask to see a certificate of conformity;
2. check the density of the bay, especially a large one - they could rewind ten meters;
3. make sure the strip is intact, and if there is a skirt, then that too. If there is damage, even at a discount, it is better to refuse the purchase.

• The self-adhesive tape should not have partial peeling of the protective strip - the glue has lost its properties.
• The thickness should be the same along the entire length, which is clearly visible on both sides of the bay.
• The cutting line must be perfect. Irregularities indicate a fake.
• Dirt on the surface is not allowed.
• Preference should be given to trusted manufacturers.

Popular options and prices

The list (not rating) of the most popular brands of damper tape includes:

• Kermi is a German company. Produces tape for “warm floors” 160 mm wide and 8 mm thick. It is wound into coils 25 m long. The price per roll starts from 500 rubles;

• Oventrop is another representative of Germany. It supplies the building materials market with L-shaped tape coated with glue (“self-adhesive”), 12-15 cm wide and 10 mm thick. It is wound into rolls of 25 and 50 m. You can buy the cheapest one for 20 rubles/m .;

• "Upolon" - to introduce Swedish industry. Produces universal, self-adhesive tape 10 mm thick and 150 mm wide. Sold in coils 50 m long at a price of 7,100 rubles. per roll;

• "Energofloor" is a brand of damper tape with a skirt. Supplied in length - 11 m, width - 10-15 cm, thickness - 10 mm at a price of 860 rubles. per roll;

• "Tilit Super" is a Russian manufacturer of peplum tape at a price of 1 m from 35 rubles. and more.

• "Teploflex";
• "Knauf" FE;
• "Valtec" etc.

How to mount it correctly

The work of laying a damper layer between the wall and the screed is not difficult. It is performed in several stages.

1. The surface of the wall and the base of the floor are cleaned of dust and dirt - otherwise the glue will lose adhesion to the wall material. This step is especially important if you need to secure the tape outside the building, along the base. After this, degreasing is carried out. 2. The compensation strip is attached to the wall. Here the correct order of operations is as follows:

• laying starts from the corner. Conducted from left to right. The roll is laid on the floor with an adhesive strip to the wall and unwound. In this case, you need to go into the adjacent wall by about 50 mm so that at the end you get an overlap. You can start from a corner without entering the adjacent wall, but then you must also complete it by entering the already laid damper. Naturally, the splicing must be done overlapping;
• the roll needs to be unwound as you pass the perimeter - the tape will lie flat, without sagging or twisting. The protective film from the adhesive strip is also removed slowly - you can contaminate the adhesive layer with an awkward movement;

The protective tape is removed as the perimeter is passed.

• the tape is laid continuously without tension;
• in the corners the “skirt” is not cut, as some experts advise, but is laid in a triangle. This solves the problem of acute and obtuse angles;
• as you pass the perimeter, you need to roll the tape to the wall with a roller, and level the plastic film of the “skirt” so that there are no folds under which the solution can get;
• To attach regular tape, you can use double-sided tape, hot glue, liquid nails, masking tape (the damper is glued to the wall with its top edge) or piles of mortar. It is undesirable to use self-tapping screws and staples - they will interfere with the thickness of the tape. If they are still used, then the fasteners must be installed above the screed, at the level of the floor covering;
• all pipes, columns and partitions in the room are also covered with a compensation strip.

3. The tape is cut, but only after the tie has set. If the height is insignificant, the operation can be ignored - everything will be covered by the baseboard. By the way, some manufacturers make cuts at the top. In this case, it is enough to pull the protruding part and the excess will come off without a knife.

In conclusion, laying damper tape around the perimeter of the walls avoids the destruction of the screed. The work is simple. You can do it yourself. Experience shows that it is more convenient to work together: one rolls out and glues the tape, the second compresses it with a roller and straightens the plastic film of the skirt.

Three solutions for soundproofing the ceiling

Soundproofing the ceiling will make the apartment quieter and relations with neighbors more pleasant. Let's figure out how to do this project independently, quickly and on a budget.

Airborne and impact noise enters the apartment through the ceiling. Airborne noise is music, conversations, barking dogs and children's songs. Stomping, jumping, and hitting balls are impact noises. Soundproofing the ceiling reduces airborne noise levels. But only soundproofing the floor in the apartment above will protect you from impact. It is impossible to control the repairs of your neighbors, so in this article we will give tips on how to reduce the level of airborne noise using ceiling soundproofing.

What kind of ceiling sound insulation is there?

Soundproofing projects vary in effectiveness, thickness, installation complexity and price. A solution for soundproofing the ceiling is chosen at the beginning of the renovation, because this is the first stage of finishing work. The choice depends on your plans for soundproofing walls and floors, your budget and the expected level of noise reduction.