Seam thickness in brickwork - the best option

The width of the brickwork joint is specified during the design of the building and is strictly controlled during the construction of walls. Failure to comply with this parameter leads to excessive consumption of mortar, disrupts the strength of the connection between bricks or blocks and can subsequently lead to destruction. The thickness of the joint in the brickwork also serves to visually determine the quality of the building being constructed.

Brick laying technique

Before use, the solution is stirred, since heavy particles can sink down and water can rise to the top.
The mixed solution is placed in buckets and transported to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately lay a strip of mortar - a bed - for one row. For a bond row the bed width is 200-220 mm, for a spoon row - 80-100 mm. If the seam is filled completely, about 10-15 mm are removed from the edge, the height of the mortar is 20-25 mm, which, when laying, provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel. There are three techniques for bricklaying. On hard, low-plasticity mortar, the “squeeze” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the “butt” technique.

Back-to-back bricklaying technique

As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution over the entire surface of the wall at once: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.

The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, with a gap of about 15-20 mm left from the edge. This indentation allows you to avoid squeezing out the mortar onto the front surface, but at the same time the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, laying milestone courses (external and internal) using this method is prohibited.

When laying a spoon row, take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Approaching what has already been laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm they begin to rake up the solution with the edge (poke). When joining, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (settled), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to the wall.

Technique for laying bricks “back to back”

With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. That’s why this method is also called “wasteland”. They are filled in when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce the strength and thermal insulation characteristics.

When laying a bonded row, everything is exactly the same, only the mortar is raked with a spoon edge. The zabutka is laid, like the bonded rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are at the same level. This is done using a building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.

"Press" technique

When working with hollow bricks, hard mortars are usually used. In this case, bricks are laid using the “squeeze” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.

The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. With your left hand, take the brick and press it against the trowel, while simultaneously pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with bricks, achieving the required seam thickness (10-12 mm).

“Butt-to-end” technique

Excess mortar is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, take a level, checking the horizontality of the row, tapping the trowel handle to straighten the position. The solution that has been squeezed out is picked up. The result is a dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.

Butt-together with trimming

The average method in terms of productivity is butt jointing with cutting of seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying pressed, and the laying technique is flush: the mortar was raked with brick, placed, pressed down, and the excess was removed. If the wall is not subsequently planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take a jointer - a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).

As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with “intermediate” plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little more tightly than when laying end-to-end.

How to strengthen the mortar joint between bricks?

The solution is old and crumbling. You can secure it somehow.

There are many different ways, but try my, dare I say it, recipe. Initially, of course, clean the seam from any crumbs of old mortar. Then make a new mortar (cement/sand = 3: 1), and most importantly, the highlight of the method, add construction PVA to it (for 1 bucket of mortar, 1 liter (kg) of PVA glue). And before preparing the solution, simply coat the cleaned seam with glue twice (the interval between coats is at least an hour), after which you can apply the solution to the cleaned seams, naturally removing the excess. It will hold strong!

In my opinion, it is necessary to first assess the whole situation as a whole.

The bricks of the entire masonry are laid on the same mortar, the mortar is not strong, very serious work (restoration) to strengthen it may be needed.

There may be a solution in the seams, it simply crumbles, in this case it is enough to buy a deep penetration primer, “Yunis”, “Optimist”, “Ceresit”, etc., any of them will cope with the task.

Primer “Ceresit ST 17” is available in the “winter” version (if there is a need to perform work at low temperatures).![][1 ]

Using a thin brush (no wider than the masonry joints), apply primer to the joints and dry them.

Such primers penetrate deeply into the base, strengthening it, and the seam will definitely not crumble (crumble).

If the mortar is partially or completely absent from the seams (spilled out), then prepare a mortar, cement + sand 1:3 (cement M500).

Next, we clean the seams from the remnants of the old mortar, which does not adhere well to them, prime the seams (see above), dry them and fill them with new mortar, and you can also unstitch the seams.

The work is, of course, very labor-intensive, I think that there is a point in such work if the building is of some historical value.

If not, then it is simpler, more logical and correct, to plaster the surface with leveling plaster and finish with decorative plaster (as an option).

Laying one and a half and two bricks

The basic principle of high-quality construction is the precise ligation of the vertical seam that connects the entire structure.
Brickwork is carried out according to certain rules. The basic principle of high-quality construction is the precise ligation of the vertical seam that connects the entire structure. The essence of dressing is to properly distribute the load and increase the strength of the structure. Bandaging can be done in three ways:

• a transverse seam that prevents the displacement of bricks from joining throughout the entire structure;
• vertical suture dressing;
• a longitudinal seam that prevents delamination and displacement of the building material distributes the load evenly.

Brick walls are laid out in two ways: multi-row or single-row. For the single-row type, it is typical to lay out the row with the spoon side out, and the second row is laid out with the butting surface. As a result, it turns out that each transverse seam moves by ¼ of the building material, and the longitudinal seam by 0.5.

The multi-row type is characterized by alternation through several spoons.

Construction in one and a half pieces. The thickness of the walls of a brick house can be 380 mm. This masonry method is quite common and is called one and a half bricks. The product begins to be laid out from the corners, the first bricks are placed perpendicularly. The first row is laid out using a construction cord, which is fixed at the height of the first and second bricks. We place the bonding surface on the outer side, and the inner side with the spoon part. The next row is laid out opposite the first, thus creating a mirror image. The thickness of the wall, built at one and a half bricks, can withstand the load of the roof and the ceiling between floors. The peculiarity of this method is that the vertical seam does not coincide; it is completely covered by the surface of other bricks.

Construction in two parts. The method of laying 2 bricks or 500 mm is performed in places with strong temperature changes. This thickness of brick walls does not require the use of insulation materials. The quality of the design directly depends on the durability of the structure and its thermal insulation.

Suture dressing systems

The following suture dressing systems are most often used in construction:

• single-row or chain;
• multi-row;
• three-row.

Single row system (chain)

Single-row ligation of sutures is performed by sequential alternation of stitch and spoon rows in compliance with the following rules:

1. The first (lower) and last (upper) rows are laid with pokes.
2. Longitudinal seams in adjacent rows are shifted by 1/2 (half a brick) relative to each other, transverse seams by 1/4 (a quarter of a brick).
3. The bricks of the overlying row must overlap the vertical joints of the underlying row.

With a single-row ligation during the laying process, a large number of incomplete bricks will be needed (most often 3/4), the cutting of which will entail not only labor costs, but also serious losses of bricks, which will ultimately lead to significant financial investments.

It must be remembered that the chain ligation system is the most labor-intensive, but despite this, it is also more durable and reliable.

Multi-row system

Multi-row dressing of seams is a brickwork laid out in spoon rows, which are tied in height every 5-6 rows with one butted row. With this dressing system, the following rules must be observed:

1. The first, also known as the bottom row, is placed with pokes.
2. Second row - spoons.
3. The third, fourth, fifth and sixth - with spoons with ligation of the seams in 1/2 (half a brick). This is done regardless of the thickness of the wall.
4. Along the width of the wall, the vertical longitudinal seams of the masonry of five rows do not need to be bandaged.
5. The pokes of the seventh row overlap the seams of the sixth row of spoons by 1/4 (a quarter of a brick).

Advantages of a multi-row dressing system:

• there is no need for a large number of incomplete bricks;
• most productive;
• allows the use of brick halves for laying backfills;
• improves the thermal characteristics of the masonry (this occurs due to increased thermal resistance, located along the path of the heat flow, untied longitudinal seams of five rows).

Flaws:

• the third rule for cutting brickwork is not fully observed;
• strength is less than with single-row dressing;
• cannot be used when laying brick pillars due to incomplete bandaging of the longitudinal seams.

Three-row system

The three-row seam dressing system is used for bricklaying narrow walls and pillars, the width of which does not exceed 1 m.

Joining options

Joining gives the structure a finished look and is carried out upon completion of the masonry. The work is painstaking and requires careful execution from a specialist.

The jointing serves to protect the mortar and brick from moisture penetration through existing cracks and irregularities. For better adhesion, special components are added to the solution. The seam between the bricks, the size of which corresponds to the standards, is embroidered with a special tool. Its use allows you to carry out work more clearly and accurately.

There are several types of jointing:

• Convex and concave
• To trim
• Pustoshovka
• Single-cut
• Double-cut concave and double-cut convex.

The paneling of the front side of the wall has its own differences. Depending on the design, the seam is made full or incomplete, with a recess of up to 15 mm. An incomplete seam promotes better plastering of the surface.

The convex shape of the seam protects the masonry from the effects of precipitation. If the climate is drier, the seam is made more concave.

The original design is considered to be a panel made in black or white. Its contrast with brick makes the appearance of the building more attractive.

With the help of jointing, masonry is updated to renovate the facades of old houses with unplastered brick walls. To do this, you must first deepen the existing seams by 2-3 mm and apply new mastic. If the work is done carefully, the masonry will have the appearance of being freshly laid. A recess is made in the old mortar using a chisel.

Differences in technology depending on the wall design

• Double-layer wall without air gap. The cladding is connected to the load-bearing wall with masonry or the air gap is caulked with mortar. This method is not suitable if the main wall is made of porous materials (foam concrete, aerated concrete), since the tightness slows down the removal of moisture from the structure.
• Double-layer wall with air gap. The supporting layer is connected to the facial layer with flexible connections. Vents are left at the top and bottom of the masonry to remove moisture. This method is preferable for walls that are vulnerable to moisture.
• Three-layer wall. An air gap is created between the load-bearing masonry and the facing masonry and heat-insulating material is laid.

Step 1. Preparing the base

The facing brick is usually laid on the protruding wall of the plinth. Sometimes an aerated concrete block can serve as the base. It is necessary to sweep away debris from the surface; a mortar fillet is made in the corners between the first row of the load-bearing wall and the support under the facing brick.

The surface level must be checked. For differences greater than 40 mm, it is recommended to add concrete. When the base is ready, waterproofing is laid on it, one part of it is placed on the wall, the other is taken out of the base. This will allow condensation to be removed from the ventilation gap. To do this, the vertical seam of the bottom row must be left without mortar.

Step 2. Mixing the solution

Cement-sand mortar is used as the main binder for laying facing bricks. In order not to purchase sand separately, you can purchase a ready-made composition, where all the components are immediately present in the required proportions.

Add the dry mixture to a container with water or a concrete mixer or mix until thick with a mixer.

You can also prepare the solution yourself; for this you need to take one part M500 cement and four parts sand.

• Add water to the concrete mixer, then add two parts of sand. Turn on mixing.

You can also add a plasticizer to the solution for ease of use.

• Add cement and then 2 more parts of sand. The mixture must be brought to the desired consistency with water.

It is better to regulate the thickness of the solution with water; if you do this with cement, there will be lumps in the mixture.

Step 3. Laying the bottom row

The first row must first be laid out without mortar and think about whether it will go flush with the foundation or whether the brick will protrude a little.

Using a small slats, you can immediately set the same distance between the stones.

We also place bricks on the doorway so that we can understand along which line the half will need to be broken off. Sometimes, as a result of the layout, it turns out that between the last and first brick there is too large a vertical seam (3 - 5 cm). It will be unsightly to insert a small piece into the gap. To solve this problem, divide the width of the gap by the number of seams in the row. We add the resulting value to the distance between the bricks.

When the entire perimeter of the house is lined with brick, you can set the angles to ninety degrees. To do this, a mooring is stretched along the upper edge of the first row. The ropes must intersect perpendicular to each other; its horizontalness should be checked using a hydraulic level or level.

To check if the angle between the ropes is 90 degrees, you can measure the sides of the triangle. They must comply with the Pythagorean theorem (the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse), the easiest way is to take the ratio of the sides 3 and 4, then the hypotenuse should be equal to 5.

In order not to disturb the layout in the future, marks can be placed on the base with the location of vertical seams.

Step 4. Laying corners

Masonry begins with the installation of corner stones; they should be placed at the same level. A layer of mortar is applied to the waterproofing, the first bricks are laid on it, and they are aligned along the vertical and horizontal axes. The result is checked with a bubble level. The measuring tool is applied to the bed and butt edges.

We stretch the string along the upper edge of the corner bricks; it will allow the row to be maintained at the same level. Before laying each brick, you need to carefully inspect the front sides. If chips are found on the corners or edges, then it is better to put such products aside.

Step 5. Wall cladding

The solution is applied to the bed with a trowel. When laying, you need to ensure that the mixture does not fall and contaminate the face of the brick. When the solution on the trowel is transferred from the bucket, you can protect yourself from this with your hand.

You need to cut off excess mortar from the front side, because when laying the top row it will squeeze out. To maintain the same vertical seam, we lean the rod along which the rows were placed against the butt plane of the adjacent brick.

To make it easier to maintain the same horizontal distance between the rows, a long steel rod with a diameter of 8 - 10 mm is laid on the edge of the masonry on the front side. It determines the maximum thickness of the solution layer.

The rods for setting the thickness of the seams must be wiped after each use so as not to stain the brick. To do this, keep a suitable rag at hand.

We apply the solution to the bonded surface of the adjacent stone, and also remove excess mixture from the edge so that it does not squeeze out.

In order not to bend over to the bucket each time for a new portion of mortar, vertical joints can be made from a mixture that is removed at the walls and at the edge.

We place the bricks on the mortar by lightly tapping with a mallet, pick or the back of a trowel handle. We display the plane level using the mooring or bubble level.

Tapping the bricks with the back of a trowel is not always a good solution, as pieces of mortar may fall onto the ceramics.

To avoid staining the front side with traces of the solution, it is recommended to use a grip where the pads of your fingers do not touch the ceramic surfaces.

Step 6. Attaching the cladding to the wall

The cladding must be connected to the main wall. If there is no air gap and both walls are being erected at the same time, the dressing can be done with masonry. This method is not possible if the main wall is made of aerated concrete or a material with a different dimension. (7)

If the wall was erected in advance and it is known that cladding is planned, then the ties can be immediately laid in the seams in order to then attach the facing masonry to them. If this has not been done, then the connection must be fixed on the ordinary masonry with anchors.

Bandaging should be done with flexible steel elements, since the front and load-bearing walls are subject to temperature deformations that occur unevenly. If the structures are connected rigidly, the fasteners will loosen the socket.

• Stainless steel wire from 1.5 to 3 mm.
• Stainless steel mesh with rectangular cells
• Flexible steel plates - they can be used as direct hangers for drywall. The main problem with this method is that fasteners in ordinary masonry will become more loose due to their wide cross-section.

To reduce local stresses on flexible connections in the masonry, vertical expansion joints must be installed. These are gaps not filled with mortar that break the wall into sections.

It is recommended to place expansion joints every 6 - 7 m; it is also useful to do mesh reinforcement every 1-6 rows.

Step 7. Laying slopes

Slopes are formed using outer bricks along the perimeter of window or door openings. In order for the completion of the masonry to look neat, some bricks will have to be split. To do this, you need to imagine an approximate cross section along which the scrap will pass (1/2, 2/3). Markings can be applied to all planes. With a pick, light blows should be applied along these lines, after which the brick will split.

Broken parts of ceramics should not extend into the slope; they should be directed to the load-bearing wall or to an adjacent brick. It turns out that the outermost one is located perpendicular to the entire row. When splitting ceramics, you need to ensure that the spoon edge is the same. If there is less than half a brick left to the edge, then the poke can be placed in a slope.

The gap between the load-bearing wall and the cladding can be sealed with mortar.

The slopes must be vertical, so it is useful to apply a bubble level to them for control. You can also set a plumb line as a guide, which will always be perpendicular to the ground.

From the top of the opening, slopes are formed by a lintel. You can use a steel corner as a base for it.

A corner is an L-shaped profile metal product. Before use, you need to clean the surface from steel burrs and sagging. It is also necessary to paint the corner to protect it from rust.

The profile is laid so that its rear flange is in the same plane as the back side of the masonry. If the horizontal plane of the corner is narrower than the width of the stones, you need to trim the back of the brick. The supporting length of the steel element on each side should be 100 - 150 mm.

To cut a brick lengthwise, you need to strike the butting planes with a pick. This way we will break the stiffening ribs - this will allow us to separate the part without cracks.

Subsequent actions do not differ from the order of work when laying conventional rows. We apply the solution to the horizontal part of the corner, then lay the brick, checking the level along the mooring.

Step 8. Joining

This stage is the final one; it is done at the stage when the masonry mortar has already set. The spaces between the bricks are cleaned, dust and dried lumps are removed. To seal joints, a special composition is used, which consists of sand, cement and lime. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1 to 10 to a paste-like state. To fill the gaps between the stones, use the jointing tool. Vertical gaps are processed first, and then horizontal ones.

Dyes can be added to the jointing mixture to give it different shades.

Features of brick walls

Brick, especially solid brick, has only one drawback. These are its low thermal performance indicators, which are worse only than the similar characteristics of reinforced concrete.

If the wall is one and a half bricks (38 cm) and can withstand heavy loads, then severe frosts become a problem for it. However, winter temperatures of -30 degrees are the norm for most regions of our country. How to make it warm in a brick house?

To keep the walls warm

Considering the rather low coefficient of thermal insulation of solid brick, to achieve heat, walls from it would have to be laid with a thickness of 64 cm. Of course, this is an extra expense - and not only on the walls, but also on the foundation, therefore the construction of solid masonry with a thickness exceeding 38 cm is considered economically unfeasible.

Hollow wall brick

So:

• There are many ways to get out of the situation. This is why hollow (slotted) bricks were invented, so that the weight of the masonry could be reduced, and, accordingly, the load on the foundation part of the building could be reduced. Technologies are also used that make masonry easier using solid bricks.
• This is the construction of masonry with widened seams, with the formation of longitudinal voids and wells filled with effective insulation materials. In addition, masonry and plaster mortars, which are commonly called warm mortars, are used to construct brick walls. Due to the content of perlite sand, their thermal insulation coefficient is several times lower than that of a conventional solution.

Warm masonry mortar

• The undoubted advantage of brick houses is the fact that the air temperature in their premises fluctuates very slightly. The thing is that the masonry not only warms up slowly, but also cools down slowly, and the thicker the wall, the longer the heat will remain.
• However, in country houses and country houses where no one lives permanently, heating brick walls requires much more fuel consumption than just maintaining a comfortable microclimate. Temperature changes contribute to the formation of condensation on the external and internal surfaces of walls, which can lead to the appearance of mold and efflorescence, leading to the gradual destruction of the masonry.

Cladding brick walls in an inconsistently heated house

It is best in such cases when the inside walls are lined with wood. Depending on the status of the house, it can be lining, plank, sheets of plywood or OSB, wood panels or MDF.

Drywall is also excellent, as it also has good thermal insulation qualities. Well, it is advisable to clad them outside using a system of insulated ventilated facades - approximately as shown in the photo above.

Some useful information

Low-rise buildings can be erected from any type of brick. In addition to ordinary clay bricks, these are also silicate and hyperpressed bricks, which, however, have some limitations.

Despite their strength, which in principle is not inferior to the strength of ceramic bricks, these products are not used for the construction of basement walls and strip foundations. In rooms with high humidity, the surface of such masonry must be protected.

Walls built from sand-lime brick

If the internal brick wall is load-bearing, then it cannot have a thickness of less than one brick. It can be built from either solid or hollow bricks. There are also standards for laying walls and pillars. The size of the pier cannot be smaller in cross-section than 250*610 mm. The cross-section of a pillar laid out of brick must be at least 380*380 mm.

Living room with brick wall

• When starting construction, it would be nice to know in advance what options for interior decoration and room design will be used. And partitions can help with this. For their construction, you can use not working brick, but face brick, which will allow you to use such an interior design option as a brick wall in the living room, dining room, or bedroom without extra costs.
• A decorative wall made from the side of the facade for insulation, or simply as a cladding, also looks incredibly beautiful. Here, of course, nothing can compare with clinker bricks. It looks good in itself, and if you also take into account the various variations of its front finish, then with a competent approach to choosing color and texture, the facade of the house will look just like a picture.

Clinker cladding on the facade

Sealing vertical seams

Behind the beautiful facades of brick buildings, unsealed seams can often be hidden. Unfortunately, unscrupulous builders exist. They are trying to save on cement mortar by applying the mixture not to the entire surface of the masonry, but in pieces. This causes the walls to become wobbly and may collapse completely.

On walls where the cement is not laid correctly and the seams are not sealed, the plaster may fly off in places, and you will see voids in the seams between the bricks. If you find such problems, you need to fix them urgently. This can be done simply. First of all, you will need a screwdriver or similar tool.

Brickwork dimensions

Standardization of masonry bonding systems and brick sizes promotes standardization of brickwork sizes. In the case of masonry walls without insulation or air gaps, the dimensions of the walls correspond to the modular dimensions of the brick edges and the standardized thicknesses of the masonry joints. When designing the dimensions of brick columns, piers and wall thicknesses, it is generally accepted that the width of the vertical masonry joint is 10 mm (in practice 8-12 mm). In this case, two bricks laid with a butt make up a section of masonry equal to the length of the brick laid with a spoon (120 mm + 10 mm + 120 mm = 250 mm).

Consequently, the dimensions of the brickwork in plan can be 120, 250, 380, 510, 640, 770, 900, 1030 mm and more. There are exceptions. Sometimes, brick partitions are made by laying bricks on edge. In this case, the thickness of the partition is not 120, but 65 mm. Another exception is the previously mentioned wall construction with an air gap or insulation. In this case, the dimensions of the brick wall depend on the thickness of the insulation or void. The section thickness consists of the modular size of the structural part of the wall, a cladding layer 120 mm thick and the calculated thickness of the insulation.

We figured out the dimensions of the brickwork in the plan. The vertical dimensions of the masonry are subject to the same laws, but with one caveat. There are two accepted brick standards in construction. An ordinary brick has a height of 65 mm. There is also a thicker one with a height of 88 mm. When designing the height of structures, the size of the brickwork joint between horizontal rows is taken to be 12 mm. In practice, 10-15 mm is allowed. When making reinforced brickwork and when electrically heating the masonry, meshes or electrodes are placed in the horizontal seams. Therefore, the size of the seams in winter brickwork is at least 12 mm. We get the height of walls, piers and columns made of ordinary brick - 77, 154, 231, 308, 385, 462 and then after 77 mm. For thickened (one and a half) bricks - 100, 200, 300, 400, 500 and then every 100 mm. At the same time, 13 rows of standard brick correspond to 10 rows of one and a half bricks (1000 mm).

The dimensions of the brickwork openings are set depending on the window or door frames being installed. Today, mass construction is focused on individual planning. Therefore, partitions and openings in them are erected after the sale of the apartment (house), taking into account the wishes of the owner. If the size of the box is known in advance, the opening is made 20 mm larger. This guarantees high-quality installation of the frame (box) in the opening with subsequent sealing.

When making masonry plans based on architectural drawings, it is necessary to reduce the sketch dimensions to constructive ones, taking into account the dimensions of the brick. In order not to calculate each time, the designer uses a table of brickwork sizes.

Rows (for vertical dimensions)

Vertical dimensions for standard brick, mm

Vertical dimensions for thickened bricks, mm

Important:

1. A gap in the masonry becomes meaningless if entrances and exits from it are not provided. In the lower part of the wall, immediately above the plinth, it is necessary to build ventilation grilles into the facing masonry, the total area of ​​which must be at least 1/5 of the horizontal cross-sectional area of ​​the gap. Usually, 10x20 cm gratings are installed in increments of 2–3 m (alas, gratings do not always decorate the façade and require periodic replacement). In the upper part, the gap is not laid or filled with mortar, but is covered with a polymer masonry mesh, or even better - with perforated panels made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating.
2. The ventilation gap must be at least 30 mm wide. It should not be confused with the technological one (about 10 mm), which is left to level the brick cladding and is usually filled with mortar during the laying process.
3. There is no need for a ventilated layer if the walls are covered from the inside with a vapor barrier film and then finished with gypsum board or other material. In this case, for a comfortable microclimate in the building, forced supply and exhaust ventilation is required.
4. The humidity regime of the premises (and therefore the enclosing structures) is significantly influenced by subjective factors associated with the operation of the building. Air humidity in homes with stove heating is usually much lower than normal, and actively used bathrooms and saunas sharply increase the humidity. In rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to install a hood, and it is advisable to protect the walls from water vapor with films or tiled finishing.

The curtain wall is always installed with a gap. It is important not to block the ventilation with the sheathing parts. Photo: Ronson

Recommendations for laying different types of bricks

Load-bearing walls and basement areas exposed to frequent moisture are built from solid ceramic bricks, most often in a single format. The optimal scheme in this case is considered to be a two-row one; it ensures uniform distribution of weight loads, the final thickness is 25 cm. It is recommended to install the products after carefully checking the evenness and waterproofing of the base and visual inspection for damage. To eliminate errors, the first row is first placed without mortar, in a dry form, all unformatted blocks are removed.

The thickness of the lowest layer can reach 20 mm; all subsequent layers are laid taking into account the design data. To make vertical seams, a little compound is applied to the butt side of the brick, after which it is lightly pressed against the previously installed blocks. Excess mixture in the longitudinal direction is immediately removed with a trowel, using a smooth movement from bottom to top.

When making horizontal rows, this is not recommended due to the risk of smearing the DSP over the surface, which is especially important when working with facing bricks. A special template helps to achieve uniform thickness without overspending; in the absence of experience, it is used not only in the longitudinal, but also in the transverse direction

The construction of any structures begins from the corner, followed by securing the order - a special bar for level control. Walls to be plastered or insulated are erected with a void - by recessing the mortar 10-15 mm deep from the front side of the brickwork.

Multi-row heat-insulating systems are constructed from porous ceramics with a fairly good strength grade. The general requirements for seam thickness and evenness remain unchanged, but due to the presence of voids, you should be prepared for an increase in mortar consumption. Changes also concern its composition; to eliminate cold bridges, additives that reduce thermal conductivity are introduced into standard DSP mixed in a 1:3 ratio: expanded clay chips, foam glass and their analogues. The scheme in multi-row structures becomes more complicated; if they doubt their abilities, they entrust the work to specialists.

Ceramic and pressed sand-lime bricks, by analogy with the others, begin to be laid from the corner, carefully checking the level and placing each row dry. But due to high requirements for decorativeness, the type of seam changes, it becomes concave or convex, and grouting is carried out immediately. The second type is more often chosen when cladding facades; such jointing enhances the moisture resistance of the walls.

The nuances include the placement of small ventilation holes in the vertical seams, usually on every 4th row. During the work, the front surface is protected from splashes of the solution; any drops that accidentally fall are removed with a dry cloth before they begin to set. The requirements for masonry and grout mixtures depend on the degree of water saturation: ordinary ceramic varieties are wetted before installation, clinker types are installed dry, but only with special compositions with a minimum content of salt-extracting substances.

Facade repair

If there are few defective areas, then they are not difficult to repair with fresh cement mortar. Repairs begin with preparation: using improvised means (screwdriver, chisel, etc.) you should remove all remnants of the dried mortar. Under no circumstances push the chipped pieces deeper. The brick wall is moistened with water so that it does not absorb it from the applied mortar. After this, you can begin to carefully fill the space between the bricks with cement mortar.

The consistency of the solution should be thick so that it does not leak. To do this, add water carefully during the cooking process, controlling the resulting mass. The first step is to seal the vertical seams, and then the horizontal ones. They are sealed as tightly and flush as possible. In all areas there should be good adhesion to the existing masonry.

The solution that is located at the outer surface should contain less water than the one that fills the seam in the depths of the masonry.

Unstitch the seam in the same way as other sections of the wall so that there are no visible differences. For this purpose, not only a trowel, but also cuttings of a hose will do. When the repair comes to an end, excess mortar and other inclusions are removed from the brick wall. After drying, the influx of cement mortar is mechanically removed.

The desire to get black seams has become popular among owners of brick houses. To obtain such a visual effect, industrial dye or simple coal is added to the solution. The resulting brickwork looks more contrasting. Visual emphasis is placed on

brickwork structure. It is advisable to whiten the seams of white brickwork using a roller made of soft material. In the case of red brick, this operation should not be done.

Sometimes minor cracks can form in the seams, which cause moisture to penetrate through the brick wall. The repair will not be difficult: they can be eliminated quite simply by purchasing a special sealant in tubes. This product will cover all visible cracks. The sealant will protect the interior from moisture and slow down further cracking of the mortar.

The importance of dressing during construction of a structure

The safety of a building structure depends on its correct construction. Conventional masonry is carried out using the long side of the material, this method is called spoons, the short side and across the wall are called pokes. Construction begins with raising the corners several bricks higher than the usual structure. The layer formed between the masonry is adjusted, and the excess is removed before the solution hardens. Afterwards the jointing is carried out.

Main rules:

• When erecting a building, it is necessary to check the laying of corners with a square at least twice throughout 1 m of masonry.
• Check the horizontality of the rows (with a rule and a level), and the verticality of the surface of the corners (with a rule with a plumb line).
• It is better to align the ones that arise with the next row.
• The thickness of the solution between the material should be measured every 5-6 rows.

Why is a ventilated air gap needed in two-layer or three-layer walls?

For walls made of vapor-permeable materials (such as ordinary brick, aerated concrete, foam block, ceramic block and shell rock), the ventilation gap is a mandatory element of façade ventilation.

The ventilation gap in the wall performs the following functions: - removes condensation from the thermal insulation (three-layer walls) or load-bearing wall (two-layer walls), thanks to which the materials retain their original thermal insulation properties; — prevents the appearance of efflorescence on the facing brickwork; — creates a favorable microclimate indoors.

Why do you need jointing?

Now let's take a closer look at why this grouting and trimming of seams is needed in a brick house, because many buildings have stood for years and no one does anything with them.

• As we have already said, this has a beneficial effect on the aesthetic side of the house. For example, you can easily hide the difference in shades when the solution is mixed gradually over several days.
• Grouting the joints of the brickwork reduces the amount of moisture that gets into the joints, destroying the cement base. This allows you to extend the life of the entire house, postponing repair work into the distant future. If you don’t know, then the cost of restoring a brick wall when cracks and collapses appear is very, very “unpleasant.”
• Proper jointing also allows you to increase the insulating properties of brick walls, because the seams are the main source of heat loss.

The wall after jointing is a monochromatic seam, the bricks stand out clearly

Where is jointing used?

Interestingly, both building bricks and double sand-lime brick M 150 are suitable for grouting joints (also suitable for facing decorative bricks).

The main thing is that the wall should not be plastered, because jointing is an analogue of a finishing material, but is only applied to a certain part of the surface.

• It can be used for outdoor walls, which is the most common option.
• It is also useful for interior work, when you need to add color to a decorative surface.
• Joining can also be used for walls that are built from natural stone.
• You can embroider the masonry at any stage: directly when erecting the walls, or after the house is built and shrinks. There is one fundamental difference - when jointing and laying together, it is easier to remove excess mortar that has not yet had time to dry. Once the house is ready, this must be done with effort, because the cement mortar is quite strong.

Independent work

Take M500 cement, white alabaster and quartz sand in a ratio of 2:2:10 parts. Add water and knead. The mass should not be liquid.

It is better to work with a semi-dry suspension - it will not get dirty and spread. The grout mixture can be prepared in other proportions:

• cement - 4 buckets,
• package of white grout mixture (2.5 kg),
• water - 6 l,
• fine sand - 2 buckets.

To obtain a white joint, it is recommended to add lime, but... Rain can cause it to streak and look gray. But a 100% snow-white seam can only be obtained when using a purchased mixture.

Check the correct mixing with a trowel: the mass should not flow or fall off it. Use the prepared solution within 2 hours. If the time is longer, plasticity is lost and the mixture hardens.

The grout should not be liquid

Factors affecting seam size

When erecting walls, adhere to the established average thickness of horizontal joints of 10 mm. This value varies by 1-2 millimeters in one direction or the other. More specific indicators of the thickness of the joints between bricks are determined in the approved building design and are strictly controlled.

Most masons make a horizontal joint 12 mm thick and a transverse joint 10 mm thick.

Acceptable values ​​are:

• in longitudinal rows 10-15 mm;
• in vertical rows 8-12 mm.

The reason for the decrease in strength is the uneven removal of water from the solution.

The uniformity and thickness of brickwork joints depend on:

• Professionalism of builders. It is better to entrust the work to specialized teams of masons.
• The hardness of the solution. If a cement-sand composition with a thick consistency is used, a solution thickness of up to 12 mm is allowed. When using plastic adhesive compositions, this parameter can be 8-10 mm.
• Conditions of work. In winter, bricklaying is carried out using anti-frost additives or the structures are heated. It is better to keep the seam size to a minimum, since at low temperatures the masonry is made more monolithic.
• Shapes and sizes of the material. Brick, as the most common building material, is characterized by uneven surfaces and unequal sizes, especially when using cheap types. When building walls, experienced masons adjust the width of the seam between bricks to 2 mm, depending on the design data.

The accuracy of brickwork also depends on the proportion of voids in the products, the frost resistance of the mortar and the brand of cement used.

The thickness of the mortar between the bricks is influenced by the consistency of the masonry composition. A properly prepared mixture fills all the unevenness and voids, but only to a thickness of a certain size. If it is exceeded, the layer simply spreads to the sides without filling the roughness, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Design features of brick

Before considering the thickness of the masonry joint, it is necessary to study its design features.

Brick is considered the most popular and versatile building material. It has been used for the construction of buildings for many years.

There are hollow and solid types of bricks.

Hollow - used for the construction of internal partitions. It has good heat and sound insulation qualities and contains voids, which can be up to 45%. The cavities inside are rectangular or round.

Solid brick has no unfilled spaces, but has surface porosity, which can be up to 14%. Used in the construction of fireplaces, stoves, chimneys.

The reliability of the walls being built and the dimensions of the joint in the brickwork depend on the density of the material and the presence of voids in it.

By size they are distinguished:

• single, with edge height 65 mm;
• one-and-a-half, with a side height of 88 mm;
• double brick – 138 mm.

These are indicators of the height of the product, the length and width are standard and are 250x120 mm.

SNiP requirements

All building stones that are used in the construction of structures must be selected in accordance with the standards for various types of building materials, which is also determined by SNiP. The brick used for external masonry must have a rectangular shape and clear edges. Each building stone is visually inspected by a master before laying.

It is also important to properly prepare the solution, which should have a mobility of no more than 7 cm. To ensure such parameters, it may be necessary to add various components to the cement mixture, including plasticizers, lime and chemical additives

These components are added depending on the manufacturer's requirements.

In winter, it is recommended to keep the solution temperature at least +25 degrees. If conditions do not allow maintaining this temperature, then it is necessary to add plasticizers to the solution.

SNiP also determines that the use of building stones that do not have the appropriate certificates is prohibited, especially in the construction of residential buildings.

Technological features of masonry

These points are also regulated by GOST, therefore all construction work must be carried out in accordance with the projects and carried out by qualified masons, depending on their category. Any masonry is regulated by SNiP according to the order of work.

1. Marking space for the wall.
2. Defining openings for doors and windows.
3. Setting up orders.

When constructing a multi-storey building, work is carried out in stages, and after the first floor has been forced out, the ceiling is done. Next, the internal walls are erected and, if necessary, reinforced.

The tool used must be reliable and meet technical specifications, as well as be in working condition. When performing work, you must strictly comply with the safety requirements of SNiP. If the building is high-rise, then all workers must have special belts for working at height. All masons working with material supply must have slinger certificates and communicate with each other to ensure coordinated work. There should be no foreign objects at the site that will interfere with the work.

Brick joint thickness

Needless to say, ceramic brick is one of the most popular building materials. The technology of brick production, as well as the various types of its masonry, have been known since time immemorial. How long a building built of brick will last depends not only on its quality, but also on the quality of the mortar, laying technology, skill of the mason and the thickness of the joints in the brickwork.

Although one of the parameters of the durability of a structure is the frost resistance of the brick (the ability to withstand a certain number of complete freezing and thawing cycles), adjusted for the climate coefficient, an incorrect seam thickness can completely destroy the entire calculation system.

For brickwork, the thickness of horizontal joints should be 12 mm. In some cases, a minimum seam thickness of 10 mm and a maximum seam width of 15 mm are allowed.

The vertical seam should be 10 mm. The minimum possible vertical seam is 8 mm. The maximum width of a vertical seam is 15 mm. In any construction project, the thickness of the joints must be indicated. Without this indicator, it is very difficult to make a correct estimate for the construction of a facility, since it is difficult to calculate the amount of cement, sand and even the amount of brick. If a mason reduces the thickness of the joints by a couple of millimeters, the total number of bricks may increase. As soon as the mason increases the size of the seam, the strength of the building decreases.

The thicker the brickwork joint, the more difficult it is to achieve uniform joint density between the bricks. Due to uneven density, brick may experience additional bending and shear loads. Thick joints in the masonry contribute to greater deformation. Therefore, for a certain type of masonry, designers set a certain thickness of the seam. In addition to the types of masonry, the thickness of the joints is influenced by the climatic conditions in which the building will be operated.

In addition, the thickness of the seams may vary depending on the weather conditions in which the brick laying work is carried out. The thickness of the seam is especially important when the brick is laid in frosty conditions. As the thickness of the seam increases, until the solution sets, the moisture inside the solution may crystallize.

Simply put, the water in the solution will simply freeze. And as soon as the temperature rises, the ice will again turn into water, but instead of a strong seam, it will become a kind of loose substance. Therefore, the thickness of the brickwork joint when working in frosty weather should be as minimal as possible. In addition, various fillers are added to the solution, which act as antifreeze.

The thickness of the seams, with the right approach to technology, must be checked. To do this, measure the width of several rows of masonry (usually 5–6 rows). The resulting size is divided by the number of rows, the size of the bricks is subtracted, and the remaining figure is divided by the number of seams. The resulting average figure should not go beyond the limits specified in the building design.

In some cases, the thickness of the seams can be only 5 millimeters. Usually this is a critical masonry made of refractory bricks, which is used in furnaces with high temperatures.

Gas silicate, gas silicate blocks, cellular concrete, aerated concrete, autoclaved aerated concrete. All these names refer to the same building material - autoclaved aerated concrete.

Brick laying under jointing is used when finishing materials will not be applied to the surface of the brickwork, but at the same time the surface should look visually finished.

The characteristics of the building directly depend on the quality of the brickwork. In particular, the strength, thermal insulation and durability of the building as a whole depend on the quality of the masonry.

Vladimir Messages: 1

Average seam size Answer #1 date:

10/24/2013 at 05:53:48

With the calculation of the average seam thickness you indicated, even non-standard seams can pass. Example: between six rows of bricks, the thickness of the seams, measured at each seam, is 8,19,23,7 - not a single seam complies with SNiP. We calculate according to your scheme: we measure 6 rows from brick to brick - 465, subtract the size of the brick - for example 65. 465 - 65 * 6 = 75 divided by the number of seams - 5, 75/5 = 15, which is fully consistent with SNiP. Those. Non-standard seams with this calculation are within the framework of SNiP.

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Monitoring the results of work

Masonry work requires constant monitoring of the thickness of vertical joints between rows of brickwork and the filling of voids. When laying in winter, the width of the seam can be the minimum allowable in order for the mortar to set quickly.

The check is carried out according to the following method. After every ten rows of masonry, a control measurement of the height is carried out. The number of bricks used is determined by multiplying the height of the material used (65 or 88 mm) by 10. Then the second is subtracted from the first amount. The result obtained is divided by the number of seams.

The final figure must meet the standard indicators established in the project. If a discrepancy is detected, the thickness of the seams is immediately adjusted.

Thickness of the outer wall of the house

In terms of the load-bearing part, the thickness of the outer wall of an individual house of 25 cm will cope with its task completely, but solid brick, in addition to its excellent qualities, also has its drawbacks. One of the disadvantages is good thermal conductivity. In short, if you build a house with insufficient thickness of external bricks and without additional insulation, then at subzero temperatures in winter the walls in the house will begin to get wet.

What to do in this case?

Increasing the wall thickness of an individual building

If you try to increase the thickness of the wall, it turns out that it should be 0.64 m, i.e. 2.5 bricks based on the maximum temperature in winter -30°C. Considering that the specific gravity of brickwork is very large, such a wall requires a massive foundation for a house that would withstand such a load, and this is a huge expense, and the brick itself is not the cheapest building material.

Using Hollow Brick for Brick Wall

In masonry, you can use so-called hollow bricks, which will reduce the thickness of the wall of an individual building due to voids, which will reduce its thermal conductivity.

Using insulation inside the wall of an individual house

Using additional material for insulation inside a brick wall is an ideal option in this case, which is very popular and has a lot of advantages. Today, building the walls of a house from bricks without insulation is not advisable, and is practically not used in modern construction.

The pie of such a wall looks like this:

The outer part of the wall is 0.5 brick thick, i.e. 12 cm - insulation, the thickness and type of which is selected taking into account climatic conditions. - the inner part of the wall, to ensure load-bearing capacity, is made of 25 cm thick bricks or blocks.

Choosing this method of constructing brick walls of an individual house will solve several problems at once:

Reducing foundation costs - reducing brick costs - increasing the area of ​​the house by reducing wall thickness

And in general, living in an individual brick house is a pleasure. Such a house will never lose its popularity, because, with a properly laid foundation, such a house will last “eternity.”

Greetings to all readers! What should be the thickness of brick exterior walls is the topic of today’s article. The most commonly used walls made of small stones are brick walls. This is due to the fact that the use of brick solves the problems of creating buildings and structures of almost any architectural form.

When starting to carry out a project, the design firm calculates all structural elements - including the thickness of the brick exterior walls.

The walls in a building perform various functions:

• If the walls are only an enclosing structure
  , in this case they must meet thermal insulation requirements in order to ensure a constant temperature and humidity microclimate, and also have soundproofing qualities.
• Load-bearing walls
  must have the necessary strength and stability, but also, like enclosing walls, must have heat-shielding properties. In addition, based on the purpose of the building and its class, the thickness of the load-bearing walls must correspond to the technical indicators of its durability and fire resistance.

Main types of suture dressing

Brickwork in 1/2 brick (spoon)

Laying 1 brick (cross) - option 1

Laying 1 brick (cross) – option 2

1-brick multi-row masonry

Laying 1.5 bricks option 1

Masonry of 1.5 bricks. Option 2

Laying 2 bricks

Laying 2.5 bricks

Seam size between bricks

The correct choice of bricklaying method determines the strength and quality of the object being constructed, its consumption, as well as the cost and duration of construction work.

The brick bond itself plays an important role in ensuring the properties of the structure being constructed.

The fact is that such masonry implies the presence of vertical and horizontal joints, which are filled with cement. It acts as a connecting component that connects individual blocks together into a single structure.

What are gaps and why are they needed?

By gaps we mean the distances between the walls, which promote ventilation and prevent the accumulation of condensation inside the structure. In such gaps you can place thermal insulation material for insulation. With this method of bricklaying, the outer wall of the house consists of three layers:

1. Basic structure.
2. Insulation.
3. Facing.

It is used to increase the thermal insulation of a home and to save energy resources. Thermal insulation material inside the structure protects the load-bearing wall from freezing. In addition, it itself is reliably protected from damage. And the existing air gap between the insulation layer and the facing masonry promotes ventilation and evaporation of excess moisture.

Average cost of work in the Russian Federation

The price for repairing defects is influenced by the complexity of the work, the area of ​​preliminary cleaning of debris, as well as the technology used by the craftsmen.

For example, in Moscow they will charge from 500 rubles per square for surface preparation , and from 350 rubles for the jointing itself. In total, for a complete renovation you will have to pay from 850 rubles for 1 square of brickwork.

If you are interested in the issue of repair and restoration of brickwork, take a look at this section.

What will be required for restoration?

Defects on the seams may not always be a sign of minor changes. It often happens that the joints look ugly, crumble and crack, which is a consequence of the shrinkage of the building and improper laying. Then a major overhaul with strengthening of the structure may be required.

To restore joints in masonry,
you must prepare:

• chisel;
• spray;
• entrenching type hammer;
• small brush;
• trowel;
• grout;
• brush.

A brush is necessary to clean the old jointing from debris. If this procedure is not followed, the new grout will fit poorly into the cracks and will not stick.

A spray or sprayer is useful for wetting the joints before their subsequent grouting . A small brush will also help remove small debris from the seams, but if you have a construction vacuum cleaner, you can try to clean the jointing with this device.

A chisel and hammer are needed to remove the old joint covering. Using a trowel, it is convenient to prepare and mix the grouting solution if a cement-sand mixture is used.

If you use regular grout for external brick joints, you can use a small rubber spatula to rub the material inside.

Why is it important to carry out inspection and restoration on time?

If defects are not repaired in a timely manner, then in the future problems may arise not only with the seams, but with the building as a whole.
Failure to repair defects will result in failure of the sealing of the brickwork. This also contributes to heat loss in the building and leads to a lack of protection of the building from moisture.

The service life of brickwork is reduced, small cracks appear and sound insulation is impaired. In addition, the appearance of the building's façade is greatly deteriorated.