How to insulate a bathhouse from gas silicate blocks: specifics, technology, useful tips

Insulating a bathhouse is a difficult task. however, if it is built from gas silicate blocks, the insulation procedure becomes even more complex, requiring consideration of the properties and performance qualities of the material.

A bathhouse is a room that, by definition, requires high-quality insulation. If its walls are made of such a specific building material as aerated concrete (or gas silicate), insulating the walls or other planes becomes a more difficult task. It is necessary to ensure normal operation of the porous material, protect it from contact with moisture, and eliminate the possibility of condensation formation. These issues can only be resolved in a comprehensive manner; to miss even one of them means to create conditions for the gradual destruction of walls and deterioration of the microclimate. Before insulating a bathhouse made of aerated blocks, it is necessary to carefully study the characteristics of the material, operating conditions, and the processes taking place within the walls. The issue is serious, therefore, it is necessary to consider it in more detail.

Specifics of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a building material from the cellular concrete family. It was created about 100 years ago with the goal of obtaining a light and warm material for the construction of economical housing. The creators of aerated concrete managed to fulfill their task. They managed to obtain a material with low thermal conductivity and low weight, which allows saving on the foundation and heating of the house. These advantages appeared due to the porous structure. The mass of aerated concrete is replete with small (2-4 mm) air-gas cavities, which give the material all its working qualities, both positive and negative. The material is soft and friable and does not withstand compression and tension loads. In addition, aerated concrete is hygroscopic and easily absorbs moisture. This property is typical for all types of concrete, but gas silicate not only absorbs, but accumulates moisture inside air bubbles.

This is a dangerous property, since in winter the water freezes, expands and ruptures the material from the inside, like an explosion stretched over several months or years. This is the most undesirable scenario for the development of events, but less dangerous options are little better - wet gas silicate is not able to retain heat, it becomes heavier and begins to overload the supporting structures.

Because of these qualities, aerated concrete must be protected from contact with moisture by all available methods. The outside of the material is finished with plaster, cladding and cladding are installed. The inside is plastered and painted, and covered with wallpaper. The specifics of these works differ little from the general rules that require the possibility of drying the material. To do this, it is necessary that the permeability of the finishing layers inside is minimal, and outside - maximum. This is the only option that ensures normal removal of moisture from the walls. Otherwise, water will begin to accumulate inside the pores of aerated concrete and create conditions for the destruction of the building.

Comparison of baths made of aerated concrete and other materials

The main requirement for a bathhouse material should be the ability to retain thermal energy. A traditional Russian bathhouse is built from wood - timber or logs. There are also brick baths, which are considered less preferable due to the high thermal conductivity of the material and the high fuel consumption for heating the premises. Recently, there has been a fashion for baths made of aerated concrete, which has a successful set of working qualities:

• low thermal conductivity allows you to save and accumulate thermal energy;
• Gas silicate is lightweight and easy to work with. The construction of the bathhouse is quick and does not require the use of lifting equipment;
• unlike wood, aerated concrete does not rot (although contact with water is no less destructive for it);
• The cost of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete is low and allows you to save significant amounts.

It is not advisable to compare aerated concrete with brick or other piece elements - all dense building materials have high thermal conductivity and are uneconomical in terms of heating. Therefore, the main competitor for gas silicate is wood. It has a lot of advantages:

• is an excellent heat insulator and does not require insulation;
• has a considerable service life - there are baths that are 100 years old or more;
• the frost resistance of wood is practically unlimited, which fundamentally distinguishes it from other materials;
• environmentally friendly material, has a pleasant smell, creates a comfortable and attractive microclimate in the room;
• wood is a traditional material for building a bathhouse and is psychologically more preferable than other options.

However, wood has many disadvantages:

• tendency to rot;
• ability to burn;
• logs or beams are heavy, it is difficult to build from them without lifting devices.

In a number of indicators, aerated concrete and wood are almost identical. For example, density (500 kg/m3 for wood and D500 gas blocks), thermal conductivity (both have an indicator of 0.14 W/m·C), almost the same water absorption. At the same time, wood does not allow water vapor to pass through, and aerated concrete is able to “breathe,” which allows you to remove excess water vapor and protect the interior from the appearance of fungus and mold.

The only indicator by which wood is many times superior to aerated concrete is its ability to withstand pressure (439 kgf/cm2 versus 50 kgf/m2). However, the bathhouse is a low, most often one-story building. The weight of the walls cannot create excess pressure that is dangerous for the lower elements. Therefore, in terms of technical and physical indicators, aerated concrete and wood are approximately equal. The choice of material is made based on personal preferences and capabilities. Many owners of bathhouses made of aerated silicate blocks explain their decision simply - lifting one block weighing 25-30 kg is much easier than lifting a heavy log to a height of 2-3 m. Working with aerated concrete is easier and faster, and also cheaper. These considerations largely determine the choice of wall material. There is one more reason - the shrinkage of a wooden bathhouse takes much longer and occurs more intensively than the shrinkage of walls made of aerated blocks. The ability to quickly complete the finishing process and get a finished bathhouse attracts users and forces them to choose a cheaper and more practical material - aerated concrete.

Drafting

The positive aspects of aerated concrete do not in any way affect the success of the construction process. In order for the idea to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete to be successful, it is necessary to think through each stage of the construction process. To do this, it is necessary to draw up a project. This is what you will have to focus on when carrying out activities at the construction site.

Many experts note that creating a project for such a structure from scratch is quite a serious task. Not all architects can cope with its successful implementation. Therefore, a more reasonable solution would be to use a ready-made outline plan, to which changes are made in accordance with the customer’s preferences.

When drawing up a project for a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, the following important points must be present in this document:

• Dimensions of the object.
• Layout. It is also necessary to indicate the dimensions of individual rooms. In relation to a bathhouse, the design must include the dimensions of a steam room, a rest room, as well as a vestibule and a bathroom.
• Type of foundation used.
• Method of installation of furnace equipment, its main technical characteristics and location option.
• Features of communications supply. It is necessary to describe in detail how the ventilation system and chimney will be installed.

When the design work is completed, you can proceed to the preparation of the materials necessary for construction work. Naturally, you should also think about purchasing the necessary tools that will allow you to carry out the necessary activities efficiently and quickly. The main material for the construction of such a bathhouse, of course, is aerated concrete blocks. In addition to them, you will need:

• dry cement;
• adhesive for aerated concrete;
• ladle or carriage for adhesive composition;
• reinforcing bars;
• roofing felt;
• rubber hammer;
• hacksaw;
• sand;
• grater;
• level.

When choosing a material, you should not purchase cheap blocks. You need to understand that the lower their price, the less correct the shape will be. And this affects the quality of the work performed. Of course, aerated concrete should not have defects in the form of chips and cracks. Otherwise, you can immediately forget about the dream of building a reliable structure.

Thickness of bathhouse walls made of aerated concrete

A bathhouse is a small building used only periodically. Before using the bathhouse, it is well heated, creating a comfortable microclimate. The rest of the time, the temperature inside the premises does not matter, since people practically do not go there. This allows the use of relatively small-sized gas blocks. As a rule, the thickness is calculated based on the mechanical parameters of the building - strength and load-bearing capacity. In this regard, the choice depends on the size of the bathhouse, the height and composition of the interior, the type of roof and other indicators. For an ordinary medium-sized bathhouse, it is considered sufficient to use gas blocks measuring 600 × 200 × 300 mm installed on an edge (the resulting wall thickness is 200 mm). This is an option convenient for construction - laying blocks is done faster.

If a large enough bathhouse is being built in the form of a guest house with a rest room, the thickness of the walls will have to be increased. Here the dimensions depend not only on the area of ​​the building, but also on the climatic characteristics of the region. For the southern regions, a wall thickness of 250 mm is sufficient, for the middle zone - 300 mm, and for the conditions of the Urals and Siberia, walls with a minimum thickness of 350 mm will be needed.

Object cost

Those who have decided to acquire their own bathhouse made of aerated concrete are, of course, concerned about the issue of cost. Here everything largely depends on how complex the project was chosen for implementation. The simplest bathhouse made of this material will cost 10,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.

It is possible to arrange a more complex structure on the site. However, in this case you need to be prepared for serious financial costs. After all, the cost of constructing a large facility with a complex layout increases significantly.

You can do the construction of a bathhouse on your own site yourself. This will significantly reduce the budget for the construction of the facility. In this case, the main expense item will be the purchase of building materials.

The construction of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete is a cheaper measure compared to the construction of a building for steam procedures made of wood. An object for rest and relaxation can be obtained subject to the correct choice of aerated concrete blocks. The building material from has proven itself well. The blocks of this manufacturer are characterized by a homogeneous composition, have the same geometric dimensions, and their surface is absolutely flat.

Aerated concrete is an excellent material for building a bathhouse. It has many advantages and very few disadvantages. This structure can be easily erected with your own hands. When performing work, you must act in accordance with the developed project. In this case, many mistakes that novice builders often make can be eliminated.

If the main points of construction technology from aerated concrete blocks are observed, it becomes possible to construct a reliable bathhouse.

For its long-term operation, it is necessary to correctly approach the issue of interior decoration. In this case, the procedures in it will bring joy, and the need for repairs will not arise soon.

Insulation of aerated concrete baths

Aerated concrete is a material that can accumulate thermal energy. Low grades (D250-D400) are considered unsuitable for serious construction, only for use as thermal insulation. At the same time, the construction of a bathhouse allows the use of low-density gas blocks with minimal thermal conductivity. The low height of the bathhouse does not allow the maximum load on aerated blocks to be exceeded, which is used by developers to build walls with increased heat-saving capabilities.

However, insulating a bathhouse is not considered an excess and is done almost everywhere. As a rule, this is done to reduce the thickness of the walls. The small size of the building, relatively light roof and walls do not create significant loads on the foundation. You can significantly save on the base and the total amount of building materials, and transfer some of the heat-saving functions to thermal insulation.

To properly organize the insulation of aerated concrete baths, it is necessary to consider the conditions in which the external walls are located. A bathhouse is a damp room where water is heated and a large amount of water vapor is released. In addition, an atmosphere supersaturated with water vapor is deliberately created in the steam room - this is normal operating mode. Therefore, it is necessary to protect gas silicate walls from contact with moisture from the inside and ensure free removal of moisture from the outside. This condition fully complies with the requirements of SNiP on the composition of the wall cake, but in the situation with the bathhouse there are some nuances.

Unlike residential premises, where there are almost always people and the heating system is constantly running, the bathhouse is used only periodically and experiences significant temperature changes. Air humidity changes dramatically, which creates the opportunity for condensation and freezing of moisture in the thickness of the walls. This is only relevant for the autumn-winter season, but in most regions of Russia it lasts up to 9 months. Therefore, before insulating a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, it is necessary to analyze all aspects of its operation, consider the composition of the wall pie and choose the optimal method of installing insulation. It is important to understand that there are no absolutely correct decisions in this matter; there is always a certain combination of conditions and circumstances. If you cannot choose an insulation option, it is recommended to contact specialists or use the most popular solutions.

Exterior finishing

The outside of the bathhouse must be primed with a water-repellent compound. This will protect the aerated concrete from external influences. The facade can be covered with decorative plaster or vinyl siding can be installed. Owners of buildings of this type note the rapid heating of the steam room, and they are quite satisfied with the strength of the structure.

Based on this information, we can conclude that aerated concrete is a worthy alternative to lumber when building a bathhouse with your own hands.

Thematic video will help in construction:

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External insulation, dew point

When considering the removal of steam from porous walls, it is necessary to understand the physical essence of the processes occurring. If moisture in a gaseous state is absorbed into aerated concrete from the inside, then liquid water evaporates from the outside. This occurs due to a decrease in the temperature of the outer layers of the wall. There is a concept - dew point. This is a conditional plane inside the walls in which the transition of steam into a liquid state occurs. It is called a point, since the very appearance of the term is associated with graphic images of walls in section, where the transition area is displayed as a point.

Water vapor, absorbed from the inside, spreads throughout the entire volume and reaches a region of low temperature, at which condensation occurs and liquid forms. This is a common occurrence, but for external walls it does not bode well. Removing liquid moisture is more difficult and takes more time. At the same time, steam flows from inside as usual. Water begins to accumulate, the wall becomes wet and ceases to perform heat-insulating functions. In winter, another area appears - the zero point. In it, water turns into a solid state, that is, it freezes. An insurmountable barrier arises, the removal of moisture from the walls stops, creating conditions for the destruction of the wall material.

If there is no external insulation, dew and zero points appear inside the walls. However, if a layer of thermal insulation is installed outside, both planes move outward. When installing a sufficiently thick layer of insulation, both areas are outside the aerated concrete, the material retains its working qualities.

Material for external insulation

It is important that the thermal insulation is permeable to water vapor and does not interfere with the drying of the outer surface of the walls. For this purpose, mineral wool is used; it is the only fairly effective and inexpensive vapor-permeable insulator. There are a lot of videos online that demonstrate external insulation using polystyrene foam or penoplex. This is the wrong approach since both materials are impervious to moisture. They trap steam inside the walls and contribute to their getting wet, which sooner or later will lead to dire consequences (destruction of materials). At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that visual monitoring of the condition of gas silicate blocks will be impossible - they are covered on both sides with several layers of thermal insulation and finishing. Therefore, it is possible to detect the results of an incorrect choice of thermal insulation only in the final stage, when the walls require major repairs.

If an impenetrable heat insulator has already been installed on the outside, there is no need to rush to dismantle it. the problem can be solved in another way - by installing a reliable cutoff of the walls from moisture from the inside, as well as organizing high-quality ventilation of the interior. Here you will need the help of specialists who can calculate the standard air exchange and select equipment with the ability to heat the supply flow.

Features of different materials for insulation

Bathhouse premises are divided into types depending on the internal microclimate. The washing room, steam room and combustion chamber have high humidity and temperature, and the rest room and dressing room have normal conditions.

The following insulation is used for bathhouse premises:

• jute felt;
• mineral wool;
• expanded clay;
• Styrofoam.

The materials are intended for different rooms, because... differ in properties and characteristics. When choosing, the hydrophobicity of the insulation and the ability to release harmful substances when heated are important.

Jute felt

Jute felt

The production uses natural fiber from the plant of the same name. Natural resins protect the threads from rotting; the material is durable, environmentally friendly, and has a uniform density throughout the mass. Polyester fibers are used for bonding, which impart elasticity.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool

For production, rocks, glass, and blast furnace waste are used, which are melted in high-temperature chambers and form fibers.

There are different types of mineral wool:

• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• slag.

Glass wool absorbs moisture less than the other two types, but is also used in bath rooms in combination with steam protection. Mineral wool reacts steadfastly to the action of chemicals and, in the event of a fire, forms a barrier to the spread of flame. Getting wet reduces the heat-shielding properties.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay

Porous insulation is made from clay shale as a result of firing. Subsequent processing results in material with different bulk densities. Expanded clay can weigh from 150 to 850 kg/m3.

Environmentally friendly insulation is divided depending on shape and size:

• crushed stone;
• gravel;
• sand.

The first two varieties have a large, medium and small fraction. Sand and small-sized elements are not used to insulate a cinder block bathhouse from the inside, because... Due to the high density in the mass, it conducts internal energy faster. Large and medium granules are used, which require the construction of a special frame into which the material is poured.

Styrofoam

The material belongs to the group of foamed polymers. Gas occupies a large volume in the mass, so the structure contains isolated balls glued together during the production process. Thermal insulating properties are due to the low conductivity of the internal elements.

Internal insulation

In addition to external insulation, it is necessary to ensure thermal insulation of gas silicate blocks from the inside in the bathhouse. In this case, the material is comprehensively protected from contact with moisture and hot air is cut off from the walls. This eliminates the formation of condensation and reduces heat loss, reducing fuel consumption when heating rooms. The need to warm up the walls made of aerated blocks disappears, limiting itself only to the convection increase in air temperature in the rooms.

In addition, installing thermal insulation from the inside reduces the amount of steam absorbed into the wall. In this regard, internal thermal insulation functions as a vapor barrier, cutting off humid internal air from gas blocks.

It must be taken into account that internal insulation reduces the functionality of aerated concrete walls. They are cut off from contact with hot air and are switched off from the thermal circuit of the bath. From the moment the insulation is installed, the walls simply cannot perform heat-saving functions, remaining only a mechanical fence, protection from wind or bad weather. This is a negative factor when it comes to residential buildings. However, for a bathhouse this option is quite convenient - you can use the cheapest material and not build thick walls. The main task is to ensure mechanical strength and load-bearing capacity.

At the same time, the internal insulation of a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks cannot guarantee protection of the walls from contact with water vapor. Small holes always remain, steam penetrates through the sockets for fasteners, areas of passage of pipes, wires, and structural elements. Therefore, you should not forget about the need to properly organize the drying of walls.

Materials for internal insulation

It is necessary to choose the right insulation materials for walls, floors and ceilings. Mineral wool, which is effective for external insulation, will not work here, since it will have to be placed in a sealed vapor barrier cocoon. Any rupture of the film will create conditions for the insulation to become wet and stop functioning.

The best option is to use polyethylene foam with a foil layer to reflect IR rays. This material is good for installation on walls and ceilings. There are a lot of brands on sale - Izolon, Penofol, Alufom, Teplofol, etc. All these materials are rolled polyethylene foam of different thicknesses. They are absolutely impervious to moisture, effectively retain thermal energy, are easy to install and are not too thick. This is an important point, since installing a thick layer of insulation on aerated concrete walls significantly reduces the internal space, which is not very large. Considering the sheathing, which also takes up a certain volume, the ability to reduce the thickness of the insulating material seems very useful. For comparison, a 4 mm layer of penofol is equivalent to a 40 mm layer of polystyrene foam or penoplex.

Installation of a “pie” of insulation from the inside

In addition to the very need to insulate the bathhouse from the inside (including with your own hands), it is important to make the right insulation “pie”.
ATTENTION ! The order of its compilation is clearly structured and should not be violated:

1. lathing on a load-bearing wall;
2. insulation;
3. vapor protection and waterproofing;
4. ventilation gap (can be arranged with a sheathing device, it is required);
5. Decoration Materials.

REFERENCE : We recommend treating all finishing wooden materials with special compounds and oils to protect them from moisture and preserve their decorative properties.

For lathing, you can use wooden blocks or a metal profile. We recommend treating the former with an antiseptic to increase service life, and choosing metal profiles from the galvanized category (not subject to rust).

IMPORTANT ! Try to make U-shaped lathing, this will lighten the structure, the weight of which is important for buildings made of blocks. Some fasteners can be replaced with galvanized ties.

It is best to use dowels as fasteners: they will make it easier to work with blocks, which have a stronger structure than wood, and will provide a tighter connection. Although, in order to save money, it is permissible to use wood screws.

A ventilation gap is left between the finishing materials and the layer of vapor and water protection so that condensation can flow down without affecting the insulation.

Insulation of walls in a bathhouse made of foam blocks (the diagram is suitable for all block walls of bathhouses)

Bathhouse premises and requirements for their insulation

As a rule, a bathhouse consists of the following premises:

• dressing room (acts as a vestibule for cutting off cold air and a locker room);
• washing compartment;
• steam room

Some baths also have relaxation rooms with a pool or plunge pool for cooling after the steam room. However, this is not typical for small private baths, where they are limited to functional rooms.

The main and most important room of the bathhouse is the steam room. It should be insulated as much as possible, since this is where the highest temperatures are created. The next level of thermal insulation is considered to be the washing compartment, where it is necessary to ensure comfortable temperature conditions. The most moderate requirements are placed on the dressing room - in traditional Russian baths it is not insulated at all, although in winter the heat from the stove may not be enough. If we consider a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, insulating the dressing room becomes a necessity - humid internal air hitting the cold walls will cause abundant condensation, which is unacceptable. Therefore, internal insulation of a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks should be carried out in all rooms, regardless of purpose and size.

It is necessary to insulate not only aerated concrete walls, but also floors and ceilings. This is done at different times - for example, insulation of the floors of a bathhouse should be done during the construction process, with the laying of thermal insulation material on the subfloor, under the screed and floor covering. Bathhouse ceilings are insulated after laying (or laying) the ceiling; this procedure can be performed during finishing work.

Cladding the rest room and attic

For the cladding I used the same aspen paneling as in the steam room. I just sewed it onto the slats horizontally. I did not use any vapor or thermal insulation.

First of all, I attached vertical slats (made of boards) to the gas silicate walls. I nailed the clapboard to them with nails.

Vertical slats are mounted on gas silicate blocks using wood screws

The walls of the rest room were covered with aspen paneling horizontally

Upon completion of the work, I covered the lining with antiseptic impregnation “Drevnokhron oak” (Polifarb) in 2 layers. The second layer was applied after the first had dried, that is, the next day.

Internal insulation with tight installation of the insulator to the wall

Internal insulation of a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks is carried out in different ways. The most common option is to install thermal insulation material close to the wall. This method saves internal space, simplifies and speeds up work.

As a rule, the material is installed directly on a wall made of aerated concrete. They use adhesive compositions (adhesive for laying aerated concrete or tile adhesive is suitable), as well as mechanical fastening with dowels and screws. The first option is more labor-intensive, but effective and reliable. The absence of a gap between the wall and the insulator prevents moisture from entering from the air, condensation and wetting of the aerated concrete. Fastening with screws is less dense and can cause moisture to enter the gas blocks. In practice, they usually combine both options - stick the insulator on the wall and fix it with screws so as not to delay the work.

If an impermeable material is used, a vapor barrier can be dispensed with. Sheets of foam plastic (penoplex) or strips of foamed polyethylene are installed tightly to each other, the cracks are filled with polyurethane foam and taped with aluminum tape. However, it is necessary to remember the numerous points of passage of pipes, wires, brackets and other structural elements. Each area must be carefully sealed using foam or silicone plumbing sealant.

Ceiling insulation

First of all, you need to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse, performing work in the following sequence:

• using a stapler, ordinary roll paper is attached to the ceiling;
• wooden blocks measuring 5x5 cm are stuffed on top of the paper, the width of which should correspond to the width of the selected roll insulation;
• basalt construction wool is laid in a tight fit between the wood beams;
• if non-foil insulation is used, foil should be placed on top of the cotton wool;
• each joint is connected with aluminum construction tape;
• strips are placed on top of the foil, onto which the lining or other finishing material of the ceiling will later be fixed.

Internal insulation with ventilated gap

One of the most effective ways of internal insulation of a bathhouse is to create a ventilated gap between walls made of gas silicate blocks and thermal insulation. This method is often used for external insulation of residential buildings, but it is practically not used from the inside. The reason for this is the inconvenience of hanging furniture or household appliances, a significant reduction in internal space, and insects, rodents, and birds can settle in the gap.

However, for a bathhouse made of aerated blocks, this option seems to be the most successful. It is extremely difficult to provide guaranteed protection against the penetration of moist air into the wall; sooner or later cracks will open, cracks or holes will form. Therefore, it is more correct to ensure the possibility of drying the walls using a ventilated space between the insulation and the wall material.

In this case, walls made of aerated concrete are practically excluded from the thermal contour of the building, remaining only a mechanical fence. However, the heat-saving ability of the insulation will be quite sufficient, especially since traditional cladding made of wooden boards (lining) will play the role of an additional heat insulator. But it will be possible to dry the wall both from the inside, by evaporating moisture into the ventilated gap, and from the outside, in the usual way.

From a design point of view, you need a frame that carries thermal insulation and sheathing. It is separated from the wall by 4-5 cm (the usual size of a ventilated gap). Air exchange is carried out through vents - slotted holes located in the lower and upper parts of the wall (usually, covers for them are made outside the walls so as not to violate the tightness of the lining of the internal surfaces of the bathhouse). The vents open only after using the bath; they are closed during heating and bath procedures.

There is a lot of controversy surrounding this method. Opponents argue that cold walls will become surfaces on which condensation will actively accumulate. The material will get wet and begin to deteriorate. However, this statement is refuted by operating practice - in winter, steam immediately settles on the surface of the wall and forms a layer of frost. After finishing using the bathhouse, it gradually evaporates. Since the time of using the bathhouse is relatively short, this frost does not have time to form a blockage in the ventilated space. In addition, the technique does not reject the need to seal the space behind the frame and form a complete cutoff of internal air from the ventilated cavity. The essence of the technique is not the constant removal of steam, but the ability to eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the wall material.

Waterproofing with films

Waterproofing a bathhouse built from aerated concrete blocks is a complex of works that cannot be avoided. Insulation materials (stone and mineral wool) are rightfully considered effective materials. But if they are not protected by reliable and high-quality waterproofing, destructive processes begin. Moisture gets into the insulation, thereby reducing its properties. Also, increased humidity has a negative effect on aerated concrete blocks, since the structure becomes less durable. As a result, the risk of cracks and other unpleasant consequences increases, which lead to additional costs for restoration work.

Waterproofing film is best suited for protecting aerated concrete blocks from the negative effects of moisture. It is manufactured in accordance with the standards and has excellent performance characteristics. Film waterproofing is widely used because the materials fully fulfill their purpose. They do not rot over time and provide long-term use.

Waterproofing film has a number of fundamental advantages. These include:

• high strength;
• reliable protection of insulation and aerated concrete blocks from the harmful effects of moisture;
• resistance to the influence of negative factors;
• long service life;
• ease of installation.

Steam room insulation

The steam room is the hottest and most humid room in the bathhouse. Here it is necessary not only to insulate the walls from contact with hot air, but also to cut them off from the absorption of steam. As a rule, thermal insulation of a steam room is implemented in the form of a continuous insulating box along the planes of the walls and ceiling. The insulation is installed in a continuous layer over all surfaces, filling the cracks with foam. The best option is to install polyethylene foam with the foil side facing the inside of the room. This will reflect the infrared rays back into the steam room and retain thermal energy.

Horizontal planks are installed on top of the thermal insulation material on the wall and wooden sheathing is mounted. It is also an element of insulation, since wood has low thermal conductivity. In addition, the cladding creates an additional barrier to water vapor (wood is impermeable to moisture, although it tends to absorb it). Not only the walls are sheathed, but also the ceiling. Here it is necessary to carry out the electrical wiring in advance, sealing the points where the cable passes through the heat-insulating material. As a rule, lamps are placed on walls or ceilings. In addition, you need to take care of the laying of air ducts (if forced ventilation is used). This is an important point, since it is impossible to carry out ventilation after installing thermal insulation and sheathing on the walls - the external arrangement of the pipes looks sloppy. In addition, the air ducts become very hot and become dangerous for users.

The floor is insulated during the construction process, since it is necessary to lay the floor covering (tiles) with a slope to drain the water. Therefore, insulation of the floor in the steam room is carried out according to the usual scheme for all rooms of the bathhouse. Sometimes it is made of wood, so as not to use a platform, but to walk directly on the boardwalk. This option is convenient and practical, but it becomes more difficult to dry such a floor - the underside of the boards gives off moisture worse, which can cause rotting.

The most important thing: choose insulation

Insulating a steam room is a procedure that was performed hundreds of years ago. Then, to make this room warm, they used natural materials: moss, flax, hemp, hay, oat scraps. This is definitely super eco-friendly, but too impractical for insulation nowadays. Such materials rot too quickly, become thin and attract insects. Therefore, they need to be updated almost every season, which is too energy-consuming.

You should not choose natural materials for insulating a steam room in a bathhouse - they are short-lived and susceptible to rotting and insect attacks. Although they have no equal in environmental friendliness

In the 21st century, innovative materials are used for insulation in the steam room. They cannot be called super environmentally friendly, but:

• they are safe for people;
• do not emit harmful and dangerous substances;
• They last a really long time - about 20-30 years without annual renewal.

The pros and cons of insulation materials and prices for insulation materials are presented in the table. It will help you decide which substance to choose to update your bathhouse (specifically, for insulation).

Important: experts advise not to skimp and purchase basalt insulation for insulation measures. It is considered the most durable and reliable for insulation

No analogues have yet been invented. If your budget does not allow, opt for expanded clay or foil mineral wool.

If you want to enjoy the time spent in the steam room in the bathhouse, insulate the walls, floor and ceiling with basalt - nothing better has been invented yet

If basalt, expanded clay or foiled mineral wool are unavailable, use any other insulation presented above for its intended purpose.

The video will show you how to choose an insulating material.

Watch this video on YouTube

Insulation of the remaining rooms of the bathhouse

The washing compartment and rest room also need insulation, since the total air humidity in the bathhouse is quickly balanced due to the free movement of air throughout all rooms. The purpose and specific use of the rest room and washroom differ from the steam room and allow the issue to be resolved in simpler ways. However, experienced users recommend not trying to save money or speed up the progress of work - you can end up with uncomfortable rooms with multiple cold bridges. In addition, from a technological point of view, it is easier to perform the same type of work in all rooms than to use different insulation methods in each department. Moreover, the process of installing insulators on walls and ceilings depends little on the type of material and requires approximately the same time and effort. Therefore, it is better not to diversify technologies and carry out insulation according to a single scheme.

What is the best way to decorate a bathhouse inside?

The choice of material type depends on the style direction. A modern manufacturer offers ample opportunities to create a unique interior of a bath complex.

Plastic panels

Washing area finished with plastic panels.

They are produced wide (wall panels) and narrow (lining).

The advantages of this material are as follows:

• Moisture resistance.
• Variety of colors and styles.
• Easy to install.
• Affordable price.
• Durability.

The disadvantages of panels include:

• Poor resistance to surface damage.
• High level of fire hazard.
• Low vapor absorption.

Combined wood and decorative stone finishing.

PVC siding

Siding is not susceptible to fire even when in contact with an open fire.

He is not afraid of accidental damage or scratches with sharp objects. In addition, it is plastic, thanks to this property you can successfully hide uneven walls.

Decorating walls with siding is simple and affordable, it can be easily done with your own hands, and the variety of colors available and the cost of the material will suit the taste and wallet of the most demanding buyer.

We suggest you read How to install an interior door - Lifehacker

Ceramic tile

Finishing the bath with mosaic tiles.

Tiles can be called an ideal material for covering surfaces in damp rooms, such as a sink or steam room.

Its advantages are obvious:

• Moisture resistance. The specially treated surface of the tile does not absorb moisture at all.
• Resistance to elevated temperatures. Modern technologies make it possible to produce heat-resistant tiles that are used to line fireplaces and stoves.
• Strength and durability. Properly laid material will serve for many years without changing its qualities and appearance; it is almost impossible to accidentally break a tile; in the worst case, you can break off a piece.
• Resistance to fire and aggressive chemical environments. The walls can be washed with any household cleaning products, and there is no fear of fire.
• Eco-friendly and hygienic. The tiles are made from natural materials; mold and microorganisms do not form on its surface.

Finishing with a pair of wooden clapboards.

A wide range of sizes, colors, and types of processing allows you to choose a collection for any interior.

Tree

It is generally accepted that the best bathhouse is one made of foam blocks, the walls of which are decorated with wooden slats (lining). And although wood does not have many of the advantages inherent in other materials, consumers still often prefer it.

What qualities of wood attract builders:

• Vapor permeability. In a bathhouse lined with wood, the steam is drier, the air is cleaner, and the walls “breathe.”
• Low thermal conductivity. The well-processed smooth surface of the boards is pleasant to the touch and has an ambient temperature.
• Environmental friendliness. Being in a steam room with walls decorated with natural wood is not only pleasant, but also useful. The essential oils released by wood have a beneficial effect on health.
• The beauty of wood texture.

Steam room covered with clapboard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtA6Bqae0Qo

Aspen, linden, and alder are used for cladding the steam room. These rocks are resistant to deformation and do not crack due to temperature changes; in addition, they have healing properties that increase when heated. The sink and rest room can be decorated with larch, pine, and cedar.

Internal or external insulation?

Many users often have a question: what type of bath insulation to choose, from the inside or the outside. The question is not idle, since the bathhouse is different from residential premises, it is used periodically and is not heated constantly. Installation of thermal insulation material from the inside in this case is mandatory. Is it also necessary to insulate the outside if the walls are still excluded from the thermal contour of the building?

Various sources claim that the best option would be to simultaneously insulate the walls from the inside and outside. This option will provide maximum heat saving efficiency and will save fuel for heating the bath. However, experienced bathhouse owners claim that this method is only good for large buildings with recreation rooms, swimming pools and other departments. They have a large wall area with high heat loss. For a small bathhouse, it is quite enough to properly insulate the walls from the inside, and on the outside you can simply install sheathing with a ventilated gap. Thermal insulation in this case is excessive; there is nothing to protect the cold walls from. Therefore, you need to be guided by the size of the bath and the mode of its use.

Thermal protection of floor covering

The insulation of a bathhouse built from expanded clay concrete blocks begins with measures to insulate the floor. A layer of slag (it can be replaced with expanded clay or glass wool) at least 35 centimeters thick is poured directly onto the ground. A reinforced concrete screed is placed on top of it, and ceramic tiles are laid on top.

Only if the insulation of the bathhouse foundation is properly arranged can heat loss during the operation of the building be significantly reduced.