Brick base: choice of brick and masonry features

The basement is an integral part of any building and structure.
It is necessary to protect walls from water and moisture acting through the foundation. This can be precipitation in the form of rain and melted snow, natural moisture in foundation soils, underground (ground) water associated with hydrogeological processes.

We will tell you in the article how to build a brick plinth on a strip foundation.

Laying work

The most important stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of the corners. The first row must be laid strictly across the entire width of the building. The solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, but the outside requires mastic, which is applied with a brush, roller or specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant monitoring of the level and cord.

Setting the corners

Setting the corners when laying the plinth is one of the main tasks; incorrectly placed corners will lead to curvature of the walls!

To do this, place a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the plinth. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, you need to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the angles are set correctly, then the dimensions should be identical.

Laying a brick plinth on top of the foundation

You can begin installation only after all measurements have been made. To secure the bricks, a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3 is required, diluted with water to the required thickness of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is to carefully fill the vertical or horizontal joints with the prepared mortar to ensure the strength of the foundation.

Base insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which must be used to treat the entire outer surface, secured with a special glue - which does not contain acetone and solvents - which harm it.

Basement waterproofing

Before you start building the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The easiest way is to lay roofing felt in two layers. The first layer ensures the wall is protected from moisture, and the second layer provides protection.
Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed to the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the building additional protection.
Bitumen lubricant is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in a thick layer in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

Ventilation

The foundation masonry must have holes that are located at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or flaps.

Brick base protection

Protection is required if construction work must be stopped. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being built, which protects the frame from various unfavorable environmental conditions.

Despite the fact that this article describes detailed instructions on how to lay a brick plinth, they will not help if you do not have even a little experience working with these materials.

DIY brickwork: tools, order and features

Now that you have an idea of how to lay bricks with your own hands, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.
Sample list of tools for bricklaying

Let's start with the tool. You will need:

mason's trowels - apply and level the mortar onto the bricks;
concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
two or three buckets for the solution;
plumb line - check the verticality of walls and corners,
building level - to check the horizontality of the row of masonry;
cord-mooring - for beating rows;
jointing (for molding seams);
hammer-pick for breaking incomplete bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks - 1/4);
The rule is a flat metal or wooden strip to check the plane of the wall.

Next we will talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot, dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.

First, two corners are driven out, then they are connected with several rows of brickwork

Second: the corners are driven out first. First the first two. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is kicked out. The second and third are also connected in several full rows. Afterwards the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter is closed. This is how walls should be built, going around them around the perimeter, and not pushing walls out one by one. This is one of the most common mistakes.

Third: there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which strings are tied. It needs to be pulled so that it marks the top edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.

Procedure for attaching the mooring cord

The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat strip or corner on which marks are applied every 77 mm - marks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.

There is another way - a mason's corner. It has a slot on one side, into which there is a solution at an angle.

Breaking out a row using a mason's corner

The disadvantage of this method is the same as just using a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled “manually” when drawing out the corners. If you lack experience (and where can you get it if you are doing bricklaying with your own hands for the first time), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) everything is easier.

Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you have seen, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 parts. To ensure that the work does not slow down, it is necessary to prepare them before starting masonry. This is done using a hammer-pick. When preparing, high precision in size is required, otherwise the dressing will go wrong. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. By placing the pen on the brick, marks are made on both sides of the spoon. Then, placing a pickaxe blade on the mark, they hit the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, they break the brick with a strong blow of the pick.

General characteristics of brick structures

Sand-lime brick has a lower degree of strength than ceramic brick. Nevertheless, sand-lime bricks are the most popular for the construction of a basement belt over a strip foundation. Here are the main points and characteristics of the construction of a brick plinth.

How wide is the base strip? This parameter depends on the dimensions of the material from which the wall elements of the future house are built. For example, if you plan to use aerated concrete blocks, then the width of the walls will be 300 mm. In the case when it is planned to carry out insulation and finishing work, then the entire 40 - 45 cm. When finishing the walls with decorative masonry, it is necessary to increase the parameters to 60 cm;
What height should a brick plinth on a strip foundation be? It is impossible to give an exact answer. The standard height is a brick plinth, which corresponds to the average level of snow precipitation. By foreseeing this fact, you can prevent the base of the house from the destructive effect of capillary moisture on it. In practice, the height of the basement masonry of strip foundations reaches the floor level of the first floor. This is the best option.

Next, let's look at what types of brick plinth can be installed:

Sunken type. It is often used in the construction of aerated concrete walls, with the walls protruding significantly forward. When using this design, moisture on the outside leaves the walls quite quickly. The advantage is that there is no need to install an additional drainage system unit;
protruding plinths. This is a suitable option for houses with basement-type premises or a foundation house with a basement. It protects more reliably from the cold. But in this case, you will have to install a drainage system around the entire perimeter of the building;
basement belt, which is level with the wall along the outer edge. In practice, it is rarely used, since in this case the waterproofing layer of the basement of the house remains unprotected and is not attractive in appearance. But if this method is still used, then it is necessary to carry out additional insulation work and cover the base with finishing material.

Purpose, types and design of the base element

Plinths are characterized by the fact that they protrude above the surface of the ground. Their height is not regulated, but usually the upper mark of the plinth coincides with the lower mark of the first floor. And it itself depends on the presence or absence of a basement or ground floor. Another criterion is that the height of the plinth must be higher than the maximum thickness of snow cover for a given region.

Structurally, the base is:

Sunken, that is, with a wall hanging 12-18 cm above them; This type of base is used for plastering (simple or decorative), tiling with ceramic or natural stone, finishing with stamped siding made of metal or plastic.
Single-level, located in the same plane as the wall.
Protruding with a sometimes smooth shaped transition, ensuring water flow during rain and not accumulating snow in winter.

Brick-shaped plinths can be formed in two ways:

Decorative cladding of a monolithic part protruding above the ground surface, buried to the required depth of a concrete strip foundation;
Entirely brick basement. It is in demand when the concrete foundation breaks off at the ground level; it has a lumpy upper part, and in the foundation itself there are problems with the geometry of the corners and interfaces with the internal bases of the main load-bearing walls, delimiting the space of the future building into separate zones and rooms. The all-brick system protruding above the ground eliminates these problems so that the walls resting on the base turned out to be strictly vertical, and the angles were right.

How to lay out the base

The basement is the ground part of the building, which is a transition from the foundation directly to the ceiling of the first floor of the house. The construction of the plinth can be an above-ground continuation of the basement walls or an underground fencing of the structure. It all depends on the design of the building.

A brick base is placed on a strip foundation of different widths. You need to know how to properly lay a brick plinth so that the walls of the house have sufficiently reliable support. All parameters of the underground walls are calculated at the house design stage. Laying a brick plinth begins after preparing the foundation.

Why do you need a basement when building a private house? What are the advantages?

The base is the above-ground part of the foundation, the main purpose is to protect the structure from precipitation and groundwater.

That is, structurally, the base separates the building from the surface of the foundation and at the same time protects it with a waterproofing layer.

Plus, thanks to the plinth, the foundation is leveled in the horizon (finally) before erecting the walls of the building.

Usually the height of the base is 50-70 cm.

Of course, all this works in combination, the base needs a blind area around the perimeter of the building, the blind area removes moisture from the foundation.

The so-called vents are also installed in the basement; this is the ventilation of the basements of buildings.

The advantages of the plinth follow from the formulation (see above) of what a plinth is in general.

The advantage is that the walls of the building are not destroyed by moisture, in my opinion this is more than enough.

The base is erected and finished with materials that can withstand high humidity, and the structure itself can be constructed from a different material.

For example, a house made of sand-lime brick

Structurally, the base can be flush with the wall of the house, or it can be protruding or recessed.

In short, the base is needed to protect the external walls from moisture.

Horizontal waterproofing is always installed between the base and the walls, for example from two layers of roofing felt, to block the passage of capillary moisture from the foundation to the walls, moisture from splashing rain from the blind area, and water from melting snow.

It is recommended to make the height of the base at least 20cm.

The choice of plinth height depends on climatic conditions, the topography of the site, the likelihood of flooding and other factors.

The minimum height (20cm) may be acceptable for southern areas with little precipitation and little snow cover.

For the average climate zone, the height of the plinth should be 45-60 cm from the blind area and is usually tied to the height of the porch. If we take into account that the height of the step is 15 cm, then the height of the base is calculated as a multiple of 15 cm.

In addition to its moisture-proof function, the plinth plays an important role in the architectural aspect of a private house. A house with a high base looks slimmer. A high base will naturally lead to higher construction costs, but it’s worth it.

In order for the base to fully perform its functions, it is also necessary to take into account the drainage of melt and rain water from the site.

Brick selection

To build a reliable brick support, for construction you only need to purchase solid red ceramic bricks that have undergone technological firing.

This material is durable and practically does not absorb moisture. If you properly waterproof the constructed column, the support can reliably withstand loads for many decades without losing its original characteristics.

The most important characteristic of solid red brick is its frost resistance. This parameter shows how many freezing/thawing the product can withstand

With a value of F35, there is a manufacturer’s guarantee for the reliable operation of such bricks for at least 35 years. When purchasing material, you should keep this indicator in mind. The higher it is, the longer the foundation will last without destruction.

It is necessary to carefully select the bricks that will be used to make foundation columns. Preference should be given to a product without cracks and not burnt.

About additional characteristics

The sizes can be thought through and selected before the purchase is made. The main production material is high-carbon steel, which bends well. To increase strength, during the production process the rods are coated with PVC or zinc. Then any masonry mesh, the cell sizes of which are selected individually, will last longer.

Many experts prefer to use the so-called galvanized mesh. But recently, fiberglass products have gained recognition in the market. In this case, performance really improves. Then the grid has the following advantages:

Less weight.
Increased strength.
Top layer protected from corrosion.

Metal-plastic products guarantee maximum service life.

Practical advice

While the final steps are being taken to install the strip foundation, you need to take into account all the parameters of the brick base. It must clearly correspond, firstly, to the plan of the future building, and secondly, it must be a multiple of the size of the bricks.

For example, 25 cm is suitable for one, 50-51 cm for a couple, 37-38 cm for one and a half sizes. The height in this case should be at least 35-40 cm. All these parameters are very important for the stability of the base and the entire building , so they need to be thought through in advance.

A brick plinth on a strip foundation requires mandatory attention during arrangement, since it is an intermediate sector between the foundation itself and further construction. If the base is laid out correctly, the building will be strong and moisture-resistant, and the operating characteristics will increase significantly.

But remember that today a brick base is mainly used only for shield-shaped houses or wooden buildings.

In addition, when you are about to start construction, always stock up on the necessary tools and materials so that you are not distracted by searching for missing parts during the process.

Step-by-step masonry technology

At the first stage, the axes are marked (alphabetic and digital axes of the project, transferred in natural sizes on top of the foundation and marked with cords, soot, chalk or some other method).

Right angles are marked by “purely” geometric methods using the Pythagorean theorem, the method of diagonals, or other similar methods.

Although it is better to use the services of a professional surveyor and use a standard theodolite (a device for measuring angles) for this purpose.

An experienced mason lays columns to the design level in the corners, as well as in places where they meet perpendicular internal main walls. In accordance with the fact that this is the main height reference for the base, the horizontal level must be ensured with a minimum error.

To check, use a water level , or, in the best case, a geodetic optical or laser level. The brick backfill between the columns is entrusted to a bricklayer with lower qualifications.

The usual thickness of the plinth for external walls in the Central European part of Russia is 2 bricks, that is, about 50 centimeters, for internal walls - 1.5 bricks (about 38 centimeters).

In order for the seams to be horizontal, even and identical, the laying is carried out strictly along a cord that rises upward as one or another row is ready.

Dressing, when the tying and spoon rows alternate, is done through one row , sometimes through several, but it is better to let there be no more than three. If a brick base is built on a rubble foundation, it should be reinforced with steel mesh with cells 5 x 5 cm, every 5 rows of masonry.

Rolled waterproofing must be laid between the foundation body and the first row of brickwork. It would be good if it was made not from simple roofing felt on a cardboard base, but using new roll materials on an elastic bitumen-polymer base reinforced with polyester mesh or canvas. At the same time, its overlap when laying should be at least 15 centimeters.

The same waterproofing, in the same sequence, must be laid on top of the base after its manufacture, before erecting the walls of the future house, regardless of the materials composing them - brick, wood, foam concrete.

During the masonry process, vents are installed in the upper parts of the base , the size of which coincides with the butt part of the brick. They are needed for ventilation and the possibility of steam escape from the evaporation of water condensate formed due to temperature changes. There should be at least one vent on each side of the building.

You should not immediately start laying walls after installing a brick plinth; you need to give the plinth at least ten days in order to stand and gain sufficient strength for the mortar to bear the load.

When subsequently laying horizontal wooden load-bearing floor beams on the base, it is necessary to protect their pinched ends from damage by fungus, mold rot, by treating them with antiseptics and wrapping them with soft rolled materials.

If the beams are metal, they are treated with anti-corrosion treatment by covering them with red lead, chromium, bitumen or coal tar varnish.

Base of 1.5 bricks on a strip foundation, video instructions:

Step-by-step reinforcement of walls, what you need to know and how to do

To begin with, of course, the territory itself is prepared (that is, the foundation is created) immediately, after which the floor slab is poured, but before that, formwork must be installed.

To do this, you MUST use corrugated reinforcing rods, which after installation (with which there will be no problems) are securely tied with ordinary wire (aluminum or other). Please note that it is also MANDATORY to tie securely and firmly!

The wire should not only hold the structure together so that you don’t fall or unnecessary fragments will separate, but it should pull the rods together, firmly securing them into a single structure! Please note that you need to tie the rods in every place where they touch, because this is the only way to achieve maximum quality of work.

Location of basement rooms

When constructing a basement with your own hands, choose the location of the basement, which can be:

Recessed below the zero mark. Reliably protects the foundation and walls of the building from moisture and has a positive effect on extending the life of the structure.
Protruding, used for buildings whose walls are insufficiently thick. If you plan to use the “zero” floor for residential purposes, then this is possible in this option.
Located at the same level as the foundation, which is not the best option, since the foundation walls require enhanced waterproofing and do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Regardless of the option chosen, reinforcement of the base is a must!

How to calculate the number of bricks

The amount of material is calculated based on the parameters of the base.

Its height is always a multiple of the whole number of rows, and its width corresponds to the usual types of masonry:

Half a brick (120 mm). For 1 m2 of masonry (including seams) 51 pieces of standard single brick are needed.
In brick (250 mm). 102 bricks per 1 m2.
One and a half bricks (380 mm). 153 pcs/m2.
In two bricks (510 mm) 204 pcs/m2, etc.

The required amount of brick can be calculated based on the area of the tape, guided by the given standards.

You can approach the issue differently and count the number of briquettes individually by dividing the length of the tape by the length of one piece and multiplying by the number of bricks in the thickness of the masonry and then multiplying by the number of rows.

For those who do not have the time or desire to do calculations, an online calculator can be useful.

There are many of them, they all operate on the same principle - your own data is entered into the appropriate boxes - tape length, width, and other initial data.

The result is the desired value, taking into account the size and other features of the selected type of brick.

IMPORTANT! In any case, the obtained result should be increased by 15-20% in order to compensate for losses from poor-quality cutting, breaking or other unproductive costs of the material.

Laying depth

The main criterion for choosing foundation parameters is ensuring its integrity. Therefore, when planning, they always include a safety margin of about 20-40%. It compensates (to some extent) for unforeseen changes in conditions (groundwater levels, unexpectedly low winter temperatures) or loads. This is especially evident when planning foundations: the laying depth is taken with a margin and the bearing capacity is usually underestimated. This is understandable: adding something to an already finished foundation is either a very expensive or unrealistic idea.

The greatest safety margin is laid on heaving soils: it is impossible to calculate their manifestation, so they try to make it as reliable as possible. To do this, for private houses, foundations are buried below the freezing depth of the soil. You will find out the average data for your region, and add about 15-25 cm to this figure. This is how you get the depth of the foundation. For example, in the region the soil freezes to 1.5 m, which means the foundation depth is 1.65-1.75 m.

Several examples of monolithic pillars

As you understand, if you make prefabricated pillars - from brick, rubble, blocks - you will have to dig a decent size hole under each one. The bottom must be 20 cm below the laying depth to make backfill. Also, the pit should be considerably wider - you will have to work in it, folding the supports. This is another reason why monolithic pillars are made: holes are drilled under them, gravel or sand is poured onto the bottom and formwork is inserted (most often pipes of the required diameter). Inside of which a reinforcing element is installed - a frame made of reinforcement or a metal pipe.

This rule works for heavy buildings. But columnar foundations are rarely made for them. They are placed mainly under light buildings: wooden or frame houses or outbuildings. If a basement is not planned for such a building, it is more advisable to make a shallow foundation (laying depth from 0.5 to 0.7 freezing level) or shallow (from 0.3 to 0.5 freezing depth).

An example of a non-buried columnar foundation with a freezing depth of 1.2 m (1/3 of 120 cm is 40 cm)

With this choice, heaving forces will act on the pillars, but since their area is smaller than that of the tape, the impact will not be as strong. These impacts are successfully compensated by the construction of a frame or wooden house. Moreover, additional measures are being taken to reduce the impact of heaving forces:

at the bottom of the hole under the post they make a gravel cushion, which takes on part of the load;
make the side surfaces smooth and additionally lubricate them with grease, bitumen mastic, epoxy resin, etc.
make an insulated blind area around the house.

As a result, in most cases, the owners do not even notice that the foundation is heaving. Some supports rose slightly, the grillage and trim compensated for them. After the ground thawed, everything returned to its place.

In soils that drain water well, the columnar foundation is made shallow or shallow

It is only important to select the correct area of the columns in order to evenly transfer the load

Construction materials

Strip (solid) foundations are made mainly from rubble stone, as well as prefabricated and monolithic reinforced concrete. Facing a non-brick plinth with various types of special facing bricks refers to finishing work, so further we will consider only the design of a completely brick plinth and methods for constructing it with your own hands.

If water is taken from ponds, lakes, rivers, it must first be filtered from biological impurities and up to 3-5% antiseptic added to it.

Brick for the plinth - ordinary clay, fired (red) must have:

strength of at least 200 kg/cm² (grade M200 and more);
frost resistance (freezing and thawing cycles) not lower than F50.

It is chosen to be solid-monolithic without voids that can accumulate condensation from capillary moisture, which, freezing in winter, can cause cracks and chips. It can be single, with dimensions 250 x 120 x 65, thickened - 250 x 120 x 88 or double - 250 x 120 x 140 millimeters.

Cement should be used grades M 400-M 500. Cement-sand mortar for masonry is designed with a grade not lower than M150 in a cement/sand proportion of ⅓ - ¼ with increased plasticity created by the introduction of additives - soap solution, PVA glue, acrylic latex.

For masonry, it is prepared in small portions - thoroughly mixing in a special container manually with shovels or using an auger mixing attachment on an electric drill.

Other tools and equipment for masonry include:

tape measure or laser rangefinder;
bubble and water levels;
plumb line;
shovels and bayonet shovels;
wheelbarrow;
pick-hammer;
trowel (special, specially shaped trowel for a mason)
spatulas;
jointing for seams;
construction nylon non-stretchable (non-sagging) cord;
stepladders, ladders, scaffolding for masons with adjustable height.

For safety reasons, the mason and his assistant must be dressed in special clothing and shoes, have a construction helmet, as well as goggles and a respirator to protect the eyes and respiratory organs. Power tools, carriers, and extension cords are grounded to prevent the possibility of electric shock.

Types of execution

When constructing brick buildings, the following types of reinforcement are used to strengthen walls and partitions:

Transverse. The brickwork is reinforced with mesh placed in horizontal joints. The following types of meshes are used:
- factory-made galvanized metal masonry. They are produced in square, rectangular or zigzag shapes from hot-rolled smooth reinforcing steel A-I and BP-I with diameters of 3...8 mm with cells from 3 to 12 cm;
All-metal expanded metal mesh (CPVA) is a modern reinforcing product manufactured in a factory using expanded metal technology and having a specific gravity that is 2.5 times less than traditional welded mesh. The undoubted advantage is high strength, reliability and ease of installation;
polyethylene and PVC mesh;
composite and basalt. Products with low weight are not subject to corrosion and rotting, do not conduct electric current, and are characterized by high heat resistance and low thermal conductivity. The use of such products makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the seams due to the possibility of reducing the cross-section of the elements. This saves money.

Nets are not laid in every row. How many rows the brickwork is reinforced is determined by the calculation set out in the building codes. In this case, the magnitude of the loads acting on the wall, their displacement from the central axes and the height of each row are taken into account. Most often, grids are laid at intervals of 2 to 5 rows, and when using thicker bricks, no more than 4. Zigzag ones are laid in two adjacent rows in pairs, so that the arrangement of the rods in them is mutually perpendicular.

The effect of using meshes is reduced when they are located at a distance of ≥ 45 cm. Structurally, the products are located at intervals of ≤ 1 m. Installation is carried out with an overlap of ≥ 15 cm. The layer of mortar at the bottom and top should be ≥ 2 mm. The ends of the mesh should protrude from the inner surface by at least 2 - 3 mm. This makes their location accessible for visual verification of correct installation and serves to strengthen the connection with the internal lining. If necessary, the ends can be easily cut off with metal scissors.

Reinforcement of masonry with nets is carried out in combination with a solution ≥ M 50.

Longitudinal. Often used to reinforce brick partitions and main load-bearing walls to increase their flexural strength and resist lateral forces. A-I and A-II reinforcement with diameters up to 12 mm is used. It can be internal, for which purpose reinforcing bars (less often mesh) welded together with transverse reinforcement are placed in grooves made in the longitudinal seams in the mortar. Or externally, under a layer of cement mortar. The spacing of clamps for external reinforcement is taken to be ≤ 15 diameters of the reinforcement used, and for internal reinforcement 25 diameters. The strength of the walls directly depends on compliance with these conditions. Often, in non-load-bearing partitions made of half a brick, basalt mesh is laid in every 5th row. In the same way, reinforcement of facing brickwork can be carried out for connection with load-bearing walls.
To strengthen thin partitions, steel corners connected to each other by metal bridges are also used to insert steel corners into the seams on both sides. Corners can be laid only on one side. Vertical rods or mesh are attached to the corners, followed by covering with plastering with cement mortar.
Vertical reinforcement of brickwork. Often, brick columns are reinforced in this way, in which it is impossible to place reinforcement in the internal cavity or it is impossible to increase its size to perform external reinforcement. In this case, steel corners of the design cross-section are installed in the corners of the column or pillar, united by welding metal transverse bridges. This operation not only strengthens the masonry, but also partially absorbs the loads acting on the structure. For vertical reinforcement of walls, reinforcing bars are placed inside the voids in the brick and then filled with cement mortar. To do this, there must be voids in the masonry running through several rows.
The diameters of rods of classes A-I, A-II, VI are usually taken from 10 to 16 mm, but in high-rise buildings it can increase to 30 mm or more. Vertical laying of reinforcement is especially necessary in areas with high seismic activity.

Subtleties of construction

When it is possible to mount support piles below the freezing level of the soil, a shallow strip foundation is built in conjunction with support pillars.

This option is used for damp and marshy areas, on loams, and with close-lying groundwater. This allows you to save on the supporting structure without compromising its reliability.

The following are used as pillars:

steel pipes protected by a concrete layer;
reinforced concrete supports;
asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete inside.

It is necessary to consider the arrangement of a high-quality drainage system. Otherwise, the costs of arranging the foundation will not be justified and the structure will collapse over time.

For what purpose is it carried out?

During the shrinkage process, the walls do not become covered with cracks, and the load effects are removed from the masonry.

This work is performed in the following cases:

heavy loads are created on the enclosing structures of multi-storey buildings;
there is a possibility of cracks forming on objects built on weak soil compositions;
construction is being carried out in an earthquake-prone region, and increasing strength is necessary to counteract tremors;
when building arches from bricks or columns, carrying out complex masonry;
if low-quality building materials are used.

How to correct a crooked foundation and bring it to zero

What does it mean to “bring the foundation to zero”? This means leveling the surface of the foundation to a horizontal position - the upper flat part should be located in the same plane. On the one hand, the need to level horizontally arises both at the stage of pouring the mortar, and when laying a brick plinth, and at the stage of installing the embedded beam. At all stages it is necessary to constantly check the hydraulic level.

But bringing the foundation to zero is not an easy task even for some experienced builders. In private construction, the following errors are usually the causes of uneven foundations:

Marking “by eye”, lack of precise measuring instruments.

Inaccurate foundation marking or broken mark. In some cases, during the installation of the formwork, the cords shift, with the orientation of which the uneven base is subsequently cast.

Heterogeneous solution. For example, a solution with excessive water content. This happens when excess water accumulates in one of the corners, after which it dries out and forms a depression.

Frost heaving. It is known that it is better to build a foundation in the winter with the goal of its shrinkage by spring. However, frost heaving provokes the rise of an unloaded belt, as a result of which, with the onset of the spring season, searching and setting the level becomes useless.

Reinforcement methods

In the technology of constructing load-bearing walls and internal partitions, reinforcement is laid in various planes in order to strengthen critical areas of the masonry of walls, columns, window and door openings, and arched ceilings.

Horizontal and vertical reinforcement of walls is used depending on the nature of the existing loads. Strong elements are laid into the rather fragile hardened mass of cement mortar along the entire length of the masonry. They evenly distribute local loads over the entire structure, preventing the appearance of cracks in places of stress.

Taking into account the possible directions of action of critical forces, reinforcement of brick walls is carried out in 2 planes:

transverse (deep into the seam);
longitudinal (along the surface or inside the masonry).

Additionally, longitudinal reinforcement is divided according to the method of orientation of the element relative to the surface of the walls into vertical and horizontal orientation.

In certain areas of the masonry, it is important to provide the correct reinforcement to maintain the integrity of the structure. Which method to choose in a particular case and how to place reinforcing belts in the walls, in how many rows to lay them, depends on taking into account in the project not only static weight loads, but also wind, snow, and seismic components

Which method to choose in a particular case and how to place reinforcing belts in the walls, in how many rows to lay them, depends on taking into account in the project not only static weight loads, but also wind, snow, and seismic components.

Compliance with the rules for the construction of walls and partitions refers to the creation of conditions for the safe operation of buildings and structures, ensuring the service life of individual housing construction is not lower than that calculated in the project.

The load-bearing capacity of a main wall or thinner partition can be increased by reinforcing the brickwork in the horizontal plane with metal mesh or tied wire. This method is also used to ensure the connection of the facing masonry with the backfill wall.

Building codes formulate the requirements for reinforcing brickwork with a mesh of horizontal joints:

Basalt reinforcing mesh allows you to reduce the amount of mortar due to the thickness of the seam. In addition, it does not require additional anti-corrosion coating and careful protection from the environment.

Easily cut to size using regular scissors. When choosing such a material, it should be taken into account that the ratio of the strength characteristics of steel and composite is 4:1, therefore, for the same loads, metal wire needs a smaller cross-section than basalt wire.

Industrially, the following options are made from steel rod according to standard cutting formats:

The best representative in its class for individual construction (where a large Ø rod is not required to provide increased strength) is expanded mesh for brickwork. It is produced in rolls, manually cut to the required size, has an anti-corrosion coating, and reduces the thickness of the seam compared to wire.

What do you need to know?

In most cases, the foundation should protrude 0.3-0.9 m above the ground. The base itself should be at least 0.5 m. Depending on the location for construction and other factors, the height of the base can be increased. For example, if the building is located on a slope, it is better to increase the height of the lower part of the structure. In addition, there are many buildings that have a basement. In this case, the lower building is at least 2 meters.

Keep in mind that the base cannot withstand humidity, which will affect the life of the house, and this period should be as long as possible.

By the way, arranging a brick plinth on a strip-type foundation is considered one of the most convenient. This type is the most common. In this case, the base itself is a continuation of the foundation.

As for which brick is best for the foundation plinth, the solid type is best. Its advantage is that moisture will not accumulate inside the brick, as would happen in the case of a hollow material, sooner or later condensation accumulates inside, which subsequently gradually destroys the material, respectively, the building itself. However, it will take several years for complete destruction. When the brickwork collapses, the entire house will begin to deform.

In addition, it is better to choose fired bricks. Its technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, stability are much higher. The same applies to the ability to withstand compression. Fired brick also has good frost resistance parameters.

In order for a brick base to last longer, it is necessary to improve the insulation so that moisture and sudden changes in temperature do not affect it so much.

Features of the brickwork of the plinth

It is important to be careful about the step-by-step execution of work and to do everything in the established order. This will make it possible to obtain a high-quality structure

The corners of the building are set: bricks are placed along the width of the planned structure

It is important to use a level to ensure the angles are positioned accurately. Once the position is established using a level, the bricks do not move. Then measure the sides and diagonals of the surface: they should be equal

This makes it possible to establish the correctness of the placement of the bricks. The maximum error can be 2 cm. Correct installation of corners affects the strength of the house.

There are a number of nuances when laying bricks

Brickwork during the construction of different stages of the building has its own subtleties:

The brick for the plinth is placed on a solution of cement and sand: in it, one part of cement corresponds to three parts of sand.
The thickness of the basement structure is determined by the material that will be used for insulation. When using foam plastic, the thickness should not be more than 38 cm.
Usually the masonry is made in 2 bricks, this technique is optimal. Don’t forget about the thickness of the planned walls. It is not recommended to lay out the base thicker than the walls. Then water can accumulate at the junction of the base and walls, which will lead to accelerated destruction of the room.
When laying out, you can use different bricks. The choice depends on the installation. Either a whole brick or its halves can be used. When laying, it is recommended not to forget about the ventilation holes; they should be at a distance of 2 meters from each other.
It is recommended to reinforce the masonry every 2-4 rows; for this purpose, a 5*5 cm mesh is used.
In relation to the walls, the base can be flush or recessed. It is better to prefer the second option, this will prevent moisture from entering from the walls.

Recommendations

Recommendations from professionals:

the horizontal thickness of the seam joint should be within 12 mm, in the case of reinforcement - 16 mm;
You can get a high-quality seam using a metal rod with a cross-section of 12 mm. Its location is in the corners of the future basement structure;
laying the mortar is done with a trowel. It also removes excess cement. It is better to do it right away before the composition hardens;
after checking the verticality and horizontality of the laying, errors are eliminated by tamping with a hand trowel;
a cord stretched between opposite corners of the future structure will allow for even ordering;
For beginners, it is recommended to lay the first order dry. Then, proceed to bandaging with cement mortar;
You need to ensure that the surface of the walls is neat and clean. Produce seam joints in a timely manner. While the cement is not dry;
the process of reinforcing walls will increase their strength. Reinforcing material is laid every 4 rows;
facing building materials at the final stage of construction will protect the structure from precipitation and other aggressive environments;
double waterproofing protection ensures the stability of the structure from the influence of external weather factors and groundwater flows;
The main rule for arranging the foundation is the correct alignment of the corners.

The service life and safety of the building depend on the correct execution of the plinth. You need to follow technology and not neglect safety precautions.

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Correct angle alignment

For bricklaying, one of the most important technological operations is the exhibition of corners. First, this is done without using a solution. Bricks are laid on each corner of the house. Then the distance between each corner is measured. The ideal option is when the distances of parallel walls are completely equal. Of course, it will not be possible to align them with high accuracy; the maximum difference is allowed no more than 2 cm.

Corner bricks are leveled until complete evenness is achieved. It is quite possible to level out small differences when laying the first row begins, but this will be very difficult for builders with little experience. Therefore, you need to set the angles immediately and accurately.

To carry out work on the construction of the basement, you must have:

Tools for laying the plinth.

leg-split;
cement mortar;
pegs;
roofing felt;
level;
Styrofoam;
plaster;
mesh;
pencil;
roulette;
jointing;
Master OK;
shovel;
hammer;
plumb line

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Which brick to choose for the plinth?

The most important question that interests many developers is which brick is best for the plinth on the foundation. Since the basement part of the building is located in the most vulnerable place from the external environment, the material for its masonry must have not only increased strength to withstand the load-bearing loads from the building’s structures above, but also high resistance to various adverse factors, primarily high humidity.

In this regard, sand-lime brick, which has a fairly high tendency to absorb moisture, which, as a result of cyclic freezing and thawing, leads to the gradual destruction of its structure, can be immediately excluded from the list of materials used.

To the question of what kind of brick to lay the plinth with, we can unequivocally answer that the most suitable material from both an economic and practical point of view is ceramic (see photo 2).

Photo 2. Ceramic bricks on pallets

What brand of brick is needed for the plinth?

M-250 is a reliable material with increased resistance to any external influences.
M-150 is the minimum acceptable grade of red brick for the plinth. Its use is desirable with subsequent cladding with protective and decorative materials. For finishing, cement plaster, facing tiles are usually used, and less often (due to the high price) clinker bricks.

The numerical indicator of the brand reflects the maximum load that the material can withstand before destruction begins, which for M-250 will be 250 kg/cm 2 .

The plinth can be made from backing brick (also known as construction brick) - in this case, the masonry is usually faced to add aesthetics, but it is often done “for jointing” (when using products of decent quality). When building premium-class houses, they can use a facing material for laying out the basement, the cost and decorative qualities of which are much higher, but subsequent finishing is not required.

Photo 3. Ordinary (backfill) ceramic material

As for the brand of brick for the plinth in terms of frost resistance, it all depends on the construction budget. But it should not be less than F50 – i.e. The product must withstand at least 50 freeze/thaw cycles. There are also materials on sale with higher performance (up to F100), the use of which is preferable, but their price is appropriate.

Which red brick is better for the base: solid or hollow?

Hollow ceramic material is characterized by the presence of a different number of technological holes (13-46%), which contribute to lower thermal conductivity. The specific gravity is lower compared to solid products, but so is the strength.

Solid brick for the base (see photo 4) has a solid structure (emptiness no more than 13%), therefore the thermal conductivity is slightly higher. But in terms of strength, it is significantly superior, which allows it to be used for the construction of critical load-bearing structures.

Photo 4. Solid ceramic material

If you have not yet decided which brick is better to choose for the plinth, we recommend buying solid products that are characterized by greater compressive strength.

It is also possible to use hollow material (see photo 5), but only for the construction of buildings with a height of no more than 1 floor, which do not create excessive loads on the foundation. At the same time, during the selection process, keep in mind that voidness is a variable indicator. That is, for some elements it can be 15%, and for others – 46%. Accordingly, their permissible load will be different. In this case, you don’t need to think long about what brick to make the plinth from - choose the “golden mean”.

Photo 5. Hollow red brick

What size should the brick for the plinth be?

1NF – single with dimensions 250×120×65 mm;
1.4NF – one-and-a-half with dimensions 250×120×88 mm.

There is no fundamental difference in which of these types of bricks to use for the basement of a house. Focus on the expected height of the basement of the building - this will help you choose the right size material.

It is worth noting that ceramic products can also be double (2.1NF, 250×120×140 mm), but they are produced only in the hollow type. In practice, such a brick is not used for the plinth.

Insulation of the structure, vertical waterproofing

If cut-off waterproofing is carried out before laying the plinth on the foundation begins, then the vertical surfaces are protected already during the finishing process. Here, a lot depends on the type of decorative material used, which, in principle, in itself can perfectly isolate the base from atmospheric moisture. For example, plaster, which, when a water-repellent component is added, can acquire water-repellent properties. Cement-based tile adhesives, which are used for ceramic cladding, have the same qualities. All that remains is to protect the seams between the tiles from moisture, for which there are waterproof grouts.

But most often the base is finished using a system of ventilated facades, using panels with stone textures as decorative material. This makes it possible not only to beautifully decorate the foundation part of the house, but also to lay insulation under the cladding. The configuration of the lathing depends on the shape and size of the finishing modules. This can be either sheet material such as corrugated sheets, long pieces (vertical siding or decking), or various types of panels.

The frame for such cladding can be assembled from wooden blocks, but a galvanized profile is more durable. It is attached to the base with hangers or brackets, which provide the necessary indentation for the ventilated space. Decorative material is hung on the sheathing elements, secured with clamps or decorative screws, depending on the type of coating. If you use polystyrene foam boards for laying in the sheathing, they, due to their almost zero water permeability, become a good protection for the base from moisture. Yes, plus also finishing material.

Calculation of the number of bricks

Calculation of the amount of brick will need to be made at the stage of creating an estimate for a brick plinth. But it happens that in practice the calculation is made when planning the construction of a basement. To calculate, you will need to know the thickness and height of the base. Such indicators are multiples of the size of the material used for laying, taking into account the thickness of the seams (usually they are 10-12 mm). Usually the base is built with a thickness of 380 or 510 mm. Laying a base of 1 brick is used in the main process of construction of wooden buildings, summer houses, bathhouses and other things. Laying half a brick is relevant for cladding the basement.

The height is set after determining the type of brick

It is important to take seams into account during the calculation process. Material consumption depends on thickness, but the specific value should be determined individually. It is necessary to purchase bricks with a margin of 5-7%

It is necessary to purchase bricks with a margin of 5-7%.

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Leveling the foundation

When using used FBS blocks, or there is no level when pouring tape, grillage, or slab, the foundation may need to be leveled. Instead of pouring a layer of concrete, brick laying is often used in this case. In addition, in prefabricated foundations it is often necessary to fill the voids between the blocks, since the foundation must have holes for the entry of communications.

In this case, the foundation is waterproofed with coating materials or primers, and stepwise leveling is used:

installation of beacons - using a plane builder, a hydraulic or laser level, the upper point of the base of the house is determined, all corners are brought to this level in a different number of rows with unequal horizontal seams
fitting - the top row of the plinth must be made of full brick without splitting or crushing, so the cord is lowered onto the previous row, the brick is laid dry, the number of undercuts for each stone is determined
laying - done in order, stones are trimmed as needed, dressing in half a brick is a prerequisite

When independently leveling the foundation stepwise with a brick plinth, you need to take into account several points:

it is necessary to use only solid bricks of at least M100 (ceramics)
To narrow the row, stones can be cut to height using an angle grinder with the appropriate equipment (diamond blade) or staked with a pick
placing a stone on an edge is strictly prohibited
Semi-dry pressing modifications cannot be used, silicate
recommended horizontal seam thickness 1.3 – 0.5 mm
ligation of pokes and spoons in adjacent vertical rows is extremely rare in this technology, therefore, when necessary, it is advisable to use reinforcing mesh

If all conditions are met, the strength and spatial rigidity of the plinth will be sufficient for standard wall laying.

Features of arrangement for a wooden house

How to arrange a basement in wooden houses? This question is relevant, since wooden materials are very susceptible to moisture, and it cannot be used at the basement level. There is no need to think long here. You can make a base from various materials presented above:

From cinder block;
plinth belts can be expanded clay concrete;
made of brick.

It happens that in an old wooden house there is no base at all, then it is raised using supports and a base is built from a previously selected material.

You can update the foundation base of an old wooden house using cladding. To do this, you can use brick, artificial stone, covering it with siding, etc. And the old wooden house will turn into a work of art.

Insulation and its features

When a basement is built, its insulation must be provided. It should not become a source of heat loss. The best option for this is to use waterproof materials. Foam plastic, which is installed over the entire external surface, has become a very popular insulation material today.

Foam boards are attached with a special acetone-free glue. After insulation, the surface is finished with a variety of materials. Sometimes plastering is done and sandwich panels are used.

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Possible mistakes and tips on how to avoid them

Mistakes made during foundation construction can be costly for the developer. An incorrectly made foundation of a house can lead to destructive phenomena in all structures of the building.

Experts recommend avoiding the following mistakes during construction:

An incorrect calculation of the bearing capacity of the foundation will cause deformation of the monolithic tape with its subsequent destruction. If you have doubts about your own capabilities, then you should turn to experienced builders for a quote.
The use of low-grade cement and non-compliance with the technology for preparing the solution can lead to a weak and fragile foundation. To avoid this, you need to order delivery of ready-made liquid concrete from trusted suppliers.
Incomplete removal of the heaving layer of soil is fraught with subsequent fracture of the MZLF. Care must be taken to remove the heaving layer of soil.
You cannot skimp on waterproofing. It is necessary to purchase high-quality bitumen mastic and carry out waterproofing work in full.

Preparing the foundation for masonry

The preparatory stage of work consists of two such actions:

Checking the horizontalness of the foundation and its diagonals;
Leveling the surface.

The first point can be diagnosed using a hydraulic level, with which we first check the corners, and then the entire area.

Attention! In order to make the foundation below zero, it is necessary to think about this even when pouring it. If it is already ready and has some deformations, then it is necessary to correct the defects. After analyzing a large number of videos and photo instructions, we have compiled the main ways to fix this.

When creating a foundation for zero, you must perform certain actions:

We check the position of all corners with a special hydraulic level device. We write down all deviations in this way: if the angle is 20 mm higher, then we write +40.
We install the formwork on the base of the house;
In all corners of the formwork we mark zero points, which will be the level when pouring the solution. Each such layer must be higher than 30 mm, otherwise the concrete will not be strong enough.
We create cuts, the lower part of which should be identical with the zero points;
We carry out installation of fittings;
Mix the ingredients for the solution: 1 part sand to 4 parts cement;
We moisten the base of the house with water and fill the formwork with the solution;
We use a rope to check the zero value through the cuts.

In addition to this work, there is a need to analyze the state of the diagonals. If this is a rectangular base, then there must be them and the parallel sides must coincide in length. All this will add up to create the evenness of the walls of the house.

Attention! The discrepancy between the diagonals can be corrected while the masonry is being laid. Namely, the length of the walls decreases and the short structure increases.

Basics of the Waterproofing Process

Waterproofing is performed to protect the base from various types of precipitation. For our case, when the material is brick, this process is performed twice, namely:

Under the plinth on the base;
Under the wall on the plinth.

The waterproofing layer may contain a cement solution or a special mastic roofing material. A protective tap can be installed around the perimeter, which is made of asbestos-cement or reinforced concrete slabs.

The principle of leveling the foundation with brickwork

It is worth considering that the walls of the house exert constant pressure on the foundation. The stability mechanism of the building frame depends on the proportionality and evenness of each of its components.

To make a level foundation while masonry is being done, you need to find the following tools:

Shovel;
Plumb for construction purposes;
Roulette;
Hammer;
Cement tank;
Master OK.

To create an ideal bottom, you need to start by laying out a layer of sand. The lower part is not visible, but all the irregularities are reflected in further work.

Attention! The lower compartment cannot be leveled later, so this needs to be taken care of right away.

High quality formwork will allow you to create a smooth interior and exterior. However, in isolated cases, the womb does not help.

Methods for leveling the foundation

There are several ways to level the foundation with bricks:

Using formwork and pouring concrete;
Brick lining method;
Covering with mesh, which is covered with plaster;
Creation of an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Important! There is a certain standard for the thickness of a horizontal seam: for example, the largest value should not exceed 1.2 cm; the deviation should be no more than 1.5 cm from the horizontal for every 10 m. These standards are fixed by SNIP.

Base thickness for aerated concrete

Another rather important issue concerns the thickness of the base and its insulation. The thickness of the base can be:

Less than the thickness of the main wall.
Greater than the thickness of the main wall.
Same thickness as the wall.

It is important to remember here that for a shallow foundation it is necessary to insulate the base and blind area so that frost along the foundation tape does not reach under the heel of the foundation. If you do not plan to insulate aerated concrete walls, it is better to make the base 5 cm thinner so that the EPS boards with which you need to insulate the base are just below the level of the wall

If you do not plan to insulate aerated concrete walls, it is better to make the base 5 cm thinner so that the EPS boards with which you need to insulate the base are just below the level of the wall.

If you plan to insulate aerated concrete walls, then also take into account the thickness of the insulation.

It looks more beautiful if the main wall is level with the foundation, without any steps. But if this is not critical for you, then you can choose any option for the base: protruding, flowing, according to level. The main thing is to ensure proper drainage of water from the wall and provide the necessary insulation of the basement.

Methods for lining walls with bricks

There are two ways to cover an aerated block house with facing bricks:

The cladding is laid close to the wall

This option is less popular. It is used for unheated rooms. If we apply this method to a heated room, we get the following problem. Warm air from the room will tend to escape outside the house. Since it will not find a way out, moisture will accumulate in the outer part of the aerated concrete wall and its gradual destruction.

It is strictly unacceptable to rigidly connect the cladding to the main wall, since the materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. In cold or hot weather, they will expand to varying degrees, which will lead to disruption of the masonry.

Facing aerated concrete with bricks with an air gap without ventilation

The thermal insulation properties of the wall are improved and its durability increases. But, since there is no ventilation with such finishing, the condensation formed between the gas blocks and the brick can drain and accumulate from below the wall, above the foundation. Therefore, the method is good for unheated rooms.

A layer of insulation can be laid in this gap.

Three-layer wall with ventilated space

Consists of aerated blocks, brickwork and ventilated space between them. This is the most profitable solution, although it is quite difficult to do everything correctly. An air gap of 6–15 cm is left between the wall and the cladding.

Through holes are made in the brickwork for ventilation. The total area of these holes is calculated by the formula: for 10 squares of wall there are 35 square cm of holes. That is, if the diameter of each hole is 1 cm, then it is necessary to make 35 holes in 10 squares in random order. It is better to do them in the joint space between the bricks. The lower holes are drilled with an outward slope for better drainage of condensate.

There is also a technology for using ventilation ducts. The vertical seams between adjacent bricks are not filled with mortar, but plastic boxes with holes are installed in them. Air circulates freely between them, and condensation drains through the lower holes.

If you want to lay insulation in between, you should choose one that allows air to pass through and is resistant to moisture absorption. A good option is basalt wool.