Insulation of a steam room in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete: indoors, arrangement of the steam room, thickness of the bathhouse walls

Who doesn’t dream of building a bathhouse on their own property? Only those who already have a bathhouse! The ideal bathhouse, of course, is built from a wooden frame, but today this material is obscenely expensive and not everyone can afford it. In addition, installing a log house requires a lot of experience from the craftsman, and the process takes six months or more.

As an alternative, modern inexpensive materials began to be used, the list of which includes aerated concrete. Due to the physical properties of this material, structures made from aerated concrete blocks have a number of features and require knowledge for insulation and finishing. Today’s article will tell you how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete.

Features of the interior decoration of aerated concrete baths

The bath should not only be warm, but also attractive in appearance.
The appearance and performance of the premises depends on the choice of cladding. Aerated concrete has good thermal insulation properties, but as it absorbs moisture, it will gradually deteriorate. Therefore, the finishing of walls is approached with special care. To create the effect of a thermos, the inside of the bathhouse is covered with foil. This material is able to reflect heat inside the steam room and also reliably seals the walls. Self-adhesive film is laid overlapping, ordinary foil is mounted end-to-end. The seams are taped with metal tape. A ventilation gap is created between the reflective material and the clapboard sheathing using sheathing.

Wiring

Before finishing with clapboard, it is necessary to install electricity. Aerated concrete can be easily sawed, so there will be no difficulties with gating. The wires are laid according to the diagram made at the design stage. This plan will be useful for wiring repairs. You need to take care of grounding.

Clapboard finishing

Traditionally, the bathhouse is lined with clapboard - a suitable type of wood is selected for each room. A steam room with high temperature and humidity requires the use of lining with low thermal conductivity and increased moisture resistance. These are aspen, linden, alder. The rest room can be lined with conifers; they have a beautiful structure, and the resinous aroma is good for health.

Aerated concrete allows you to build smooth walls, so the sheathing is placed directly on them. The boards in the steam room are fastened with clamps, in other rooms they are nailed. The clapboard is not attached near the stove; for fire safety purposes, this area is trimmed with stone or brick. In the shower room, if desired, the walls and floor are tiled.

Floor options

A bathhouse made of aerated concrete blocks is equipped with a wooden or concrete floor. The wooden flooring consists of a rough and finished floor. The slope of the structure ensures water drainage. Concrete flooring is a more practical option; it will not rot from moisture. Laying ceramic tiles can make the coating look attractive.

The finishing touches remain:

• collect sunbeds
• nail the baseboards
• install sockets and switches

Wiring

To conduct electrical wiring in a bathhouse, you must first select a suitable cable to avoid overloads and overheating.

Since this room has high humidity, to ensure maximum safety, it is necessary to carefully insulate the wire.

It is best to mount the wire in channels that must first be hollowed out.

For complete safety, you need to place a circuit breaker at the input of electrical networks; also, it is better to equip each electrical line with a separate fuse.

Switches and sockets should be placed in the safest place possible and should not be exposed to water to prevent short circuits.

Before starting finishing work, it is necessary to install the electrical wiring. The plan for the latter should already be indicated in advance in the project documentation. In general, the speed and quality of all work performed directly depends on how well the project is drawn up. A person who does not have to invent or invent anything during construction processes works much more productively.

Recommendations for working with wiring:

1. The cheapest option, of course, is to use NYM corrugated electrical cable, but firefighters recommend that wiring in the bathhouse be carried out only in metal pipes. And, to tell the truth, it is very difficult to argue with them, because, among other things, mechanical damage to the uncovered NYM power cable is possible (for example, by mice), which will negate all the reliable German technology. So if you want to play it safe and protect yourself from fire, it is better to lay the wiring through metal pipes.
2. To find the wiring after a few years, you need to lay it in the walls at a distance of 150 mm from the level of the finished ceiling, and all descents are made strictly perpendicular to the floor.
3. Even before creating the project, it was necessary to reservely calculate the entire load on the wiring. And, based on these data, select the required cross-section of electrically conductive wires. So during installation, check the design and lay cables only of the required cross-section.
4. All non-sleeve connections of wires are soldered.
5. Don't forget about such an important point as grounding. When operating modern electrical appliances, it is mandatory.
6. When lighting the steam room itself, it is necessary to use step-down transformers.

Of course, with impeccable installation, standard 220 V is also quite safe. But the price of human life is too high to put on the same scale with a random mistake.

Waterproofing films Ondutis

To waterproof the floor in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete blocks, a vapor barrier film Ondutis R100 or Ondutis D (RV) is used. Laying the material is carried out similarly to the processes described above

In this case, much attention is paid to waterproofing the joints, since the panels must be connected without the slightest gaps

Ondutis waterproofing films are modern materials of the highest quality. Several types of films are suitable for waterproofing work. Let's list some of them:

• Ondutis R100 is an environmentally friendly material widely used in waterproofing in aerated concrete baths. Polymer fabric has excellent performance characteristics: high tensile strength, non-decomposition. The material prevents the insulation from getting wet and causing mold;
• Ondutis D (RV) is a new generation universal film characterized by good performance characteristics. It protects structures from the harmful effects of condensation and serves for a long period of time. The gray material has high tensile strength and environmental friendliness;
• Ondutis R Thermo is a two-layer material coated with a protective coating. The heat-reflecting vapor barrier film prevents moisture from entering the enclosing structures.

Waterproofing a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, equipped with Ondutis films, is the ideal solution. The materials improve insulation performance and effectively protect walls, floors and ceilings from high humidity.

Installation of roof truss system

The next stage is the arrangement of the rafter system for the gable roof. The work package includes the following:

1. Installation of the base, rafter and transom for the finished structure. For the rafter system, an edged board is used (dimensions 100 × 40 mm).
2. Installation of triangles for gables.
3. Installation of wooden sheathing from beams with a step width from 60 to 100 cm.
4. Arrangement of the attic floor base in compliance with technological gaps for ventilation.
5. Gable trim.
6. Installation of waterproofing material on wooden sheathing.
7. Laying roofing material.

Drafting

The positive aspects of aerated concrete do not in any way affect the success of the construction process. In order for the idea to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete to be successful, it is necessary to think through each stage of the construction process. To do this, it is necessary to draw up a project. This is what you will have to focus on when carrying out activities at the construction site.

Many experts note that creating a project for such a structure from scratch is quite a serious task. Not all architects can cope with its successful implementation. Therefore, a more reasonable solution would be to use a ready-made outline plan, to which changes are made in accordance with the customer’s preferences.

When drawing up a project for a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, the following important points must be present in this document:

• Dimensions of the object.
• Layout. It is also necessary to indicate the dimensions of individual rooms. In relation to a bathhouse, the design must include the dimensions of a steam room, a rest room, as well as a vestibule and a bathroom.
• Type of foundation used.
• Method of installation of furnace equipment, its main technical characteristics and location option.
• Features of communications supply. It is necessary to describe in detail how the ventilation system and chimney will be installed.

When the design work is completed, you can proceed to the preparation of the materials necessary for construction work. Naturally, you should also think about purchasing the necessary tools that will allow you to carry out the necessary activities efficiently and quickly. The main material for the construction of such a bathhouse, of course, is aerated concrete blocks. In addition to them, you will need:

• dry cement;
• adhesive for aerated concrete;
• ladle or carriage for adhesive composition;
• reinforcing bars;
• roofing felt;
• rubber hammer;
• hacksaw;
• sand;
• grater;
• level.

When choosing a material, you should not purchase cheap blocks. You need to understand that the lower their price, the less correct the shape will be. And this affects the quality of the work performed. Of course, aerated concrete should not have defects in the form of chips and cracks. Otherwise, you can immediately forget about the dream of building a reliable structure.

Pros and cons of the material in the design of the bath

Since aerated concrete has the highest thermal insulation properties and is not inferior in durability to stone buildings, bathhouses made from this material are widely used. Such a structure has a number of advantages that are especially appreciated by developers.

Aerated concrete bathhouse pros and cons:

1. Lightweight blocks allow you to do the laying yourself; no loaders are required to move the blocks on the site.
2. Strict geometric shapes make the laying process easier, even for beginners.
3. Heat resistance and fire resistance are important qualities for a bathhouse where there is a possibility of a fire hazard from the stove. In terms of the level of thermal insulation of such material, they are no worse than timber.
4. Possibility of use for the construction of strip foundations.
5. Environmental Safety.
6. Biological resistance to the formation of fungal mold and moss.
7. The budget price of building a bathhouse from aerated concrete is a significant advantage in favor of developers using the material.
8. Aerated blocks have virtually no shrinkage, so you can begin finishing work immediately after erecting the structure.

There are no ideal materials in nature; they all have disadvantages; for aerated concrete, this is high moisture absorption. But the masters have learned to successfully cope with this problem. In order to build a durable facility, reliable waterproofing of the walls is carried out, in this case the bathhouse will last a long time.

How to build with your own hands?

You can build a bathhouse from blocks yourself, without involving specialists, whose servants are often very expensive.

The main thing is to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm for constructing the structure:

First you need to draw up a project for the future bathhouse.

Then you should proceed to laying the foundation. To do this, you need to mark the area, dig a trench and make a 15 cm sand cushion at its bottom. The sand needs to be watered and compacted.

Now you need to make wooden formwork over the trench. Using a level, it is necessary to mark off the upper (horizontal) surface of the foundation.

A frame of reinforcement should be made in the inner part of the formwork.

Next, pour concrete into the formwork.

Now you can build walls. Laying the starting row of blocks is especially important. Using a cement-sand mortar, you need to lay the blocks on the prepared waterproofing.

The following rows must be placed on special glue.

At the end of the installation, reinforcement is laid on top of the walls and a mauerlat is made.

After this, you need to move on to building the roof structure. To do this, it is permissible to use rafters and lay waterproofing on them.

They should also be finished with a counter-batten, on which the main batten should then be laid.

After this, you should proceed to the installation of roofing materials.

After completing all of the above work, you need to finish the resulting bathhouse.

Characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete blocks are based on cellular concrete, made by mixing binders, fillers, additives and water. Cement is usually used for the binder; lime and quartz sand are used as fillers.

Advantages as a material for assembling a bathhouse

The blocks are large in size and light in weight, which greatly facilitates the work of builders. Assembling aerated concrete walls does not require special knowledge and experience, so even a novice master can cope with the task.

Construction of a building will cost much less than creating a brick or wooden structure.

Aerated blocks are characterized by high thermal insulation, so the bathhouse will not require serious insulation. The material is durable, fireproof, easy to process, and environmentally friendly.

It is easy to lay internal communications in a bathhouse made of aerated concrete. The blocks are easy to process by gating.

Flaws

The obvious disadvantages of aerated concrete include:

• Poor geometry, which cheap blocks suffer from;
• The need for complete waterproofing of the foundation;
• Ease of water absorption.

The last drawback calls into question the profitability of building a bathhouse from aerated concrete. But professional craftsmen say that high-quality interior finishing will help completely cope with the problem.

The most important thing: choose insulation

Insulating a steam room is a procedure that was performed hundreds of years ago. Then, to make this room warm, they used natural materials: moss, flax, hemp, hay, oat scraps. This is definitely super eco-friendly, but too impractical for insulation nowadays. Such materials rot too quickly, become thin and attract insects. Therefore, they need to be updated almost every season, which is too energy-consuming.

You should not choose natural materials for insulating a steam room in a bathhouse - they are short-lived and susceptible to rotting and insect attacks. Although they have no equal in environmental friendliness

In the 21st century, innovative materials are used for insulation in the steam room. They cannot be called super environmentally friendly, but:

• they are safe for people;
• do not emit harmful and dangerous substances;
• They last a really long time - about 20-30 years without annual renewal.

The pros and cons of insulation materials and prices for insulation materials are presented in the table. It will help you decide which substance to choose to update your bathhouse (specifically, for insulation).

Insulation	pros	Minuses	Price
Basalt wool	Does not burn, does not deform, is not afraid of moisture, absorbs noise, does not release heat for a long time	High price	300-600 per sheet with sides 100×50×5 millimeters (this is exactly what is needed for the steam room)
Expanded clay	Very light, cheap, does not deform, can fill any spaces and voids, is not afraid of high temperatures and temperature changes	Absorbs moisture and therefore requires increased waterproofing; Doesn't retain heat very well	25-35 per liter
Foil mineral wool	Perfectly retains heat in the room, has the ability to reflect infrared rays; does not absorb moisture, lasts a long time	Relatively expensive	500-600 per sheet with sides 1000×600×30 mm
Styrofoam	It is cheap, weighs little, does not absorb liquid, does not form condensation	Retains heat poorly, does not allow air to circulate, is afraid of exposure to high degrees - it can melt	100-150 rubles per sheet with dimensions 1000×500×30 mm
Expanded polystyrene	Lightweight, not afraid of elevated temperatures and moisture	Cannot be used near open fire, does not allow air to pass through	150-200 rubles per sheet 1000×600×30 mm
Foil polyethylene	It is inexpensive, retains heat well, is not afraid of water and steam, and reflects infrared radiation	Does not breathe, melts under increased load, can release corrosive substances at very high temperatures (150-200 degrees Celsius)	1,500 rubles for a 25-meter roll one meter high (this is more than enough for insulation measures)
Foil cardboard	Costs little, light weight, small sheet thickness, it is not afraid of water, steam, high loads, reflects infrared rays	Does not allow air to circulate freely, does not retain heat well	200-250 rubles per sheet 100×50×5 millimeters

Important: experts advise not to skimp and purchase basalt insulation for insulation measures. It is considered the most durable and reliable for insulation

No analogues have yet been invented. If your budget does not allow, opt for expanded clay or foil mineral wool.

If you want to enjoy the time spent in the steam room in the bathhouse, insulate the walls, floor and ceiling with basalt - nothing better has been invented yet

If basalt, expanded clay or foiled mineral wool are unavailable, use any other insulation presented above for its intended purpose.

The video will show you how to choose an insulating material.

Watch this video on YouTube

Is it possible to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete?

Many steam room lovers are interested in the possibility of building their own bathhouse, reducing the cost of its construction. One of the options for relatively inexpensive construction is the use of aerated concrete. When asked whether it is possible to build a bathhouse from aerated concrete, all professionals answer in the affirmative. The main thing is to carefully study the specifics of the material. Knowing the conditions in which construction with aerated blocks is expected, you will build a beautiful and durable bathhouse.

Aerated concrete intended for the construction of steam rooms has:

• porous structure;
• rectangular or U-shaped;
• optimal dimensions 625 x 240 x 250 mm or 600 x 300 x 250 mm;
• frost resistance, which is indicated by the marking, from F35 and above.

The thickness of the walls of a bathhouse made of foam concrete or aerated concrete usually depends on the region of location. In the northern parts of the country, it is recommended to erect walls whose thickness reaches 60 cm. For the middle zone of the country, thinner walls are suitable - with a width of 250 to 400 mm.

In terms of hardness and density, the blocks are not inferior to brick and wood, and they are easier to work with

When purchasing material, it is important to choose products from a trusted manufacturer. One of the well-known brands on the modern market is “Aeroc” - this type of aerated concrete is characterized by high quality, and the percentage of defects is minimal

What should be the optimal flow rate?

The binder mixture contains cement, fine sand sifted to uniform fractions and modifiers. Artificial stone is a porous material, so it must be laid on a plastic mixture.

Manufacturers indicate on the packaging of their products how much glue is used per 1 m². In terms of cubes, the minimum amount per 1 m³ for some companies is 20 kg. Experts calculate the consumption of the mixture under conditions of average temperature and humidity. In practice, more composition is required, because construction conditions make their own adjustments.

Walls and floors are insulated with aerated concrete blocks. Cement mortar is not suitable in this case - the thermal conductivity is too high. They use special mixtures, the consumption of which is the same as when constructing a building.

Consumption in practice exceeds the minimum declared by the manufacturer by 1.5 times.

The optimal size is considered to be 25-30 kg. If this indicator differs greatly from that declared by the manufacturer, it means that there are errors in the technology.

When constructing objects with large cubic capacity, there may be cost overruns or, conversely, savings. Many factors play a role: the quality of aerated blocks, the thickness of the layer, the experience of the mason.

Manufacturers calculate consumption by taking the thickness of the adhesive joint to be 1 mm.

It is optimal for the following reasons:

• cold bridges are not formed, heat loss is eliminated;
• the evenness of the masonry is effectively emphasized;
• a thin layer is stronger than a thick one.

You should not be afraid of overspending due to the fact that a lot of the mixture is prepared; it will harden from untimely use. The properties of the binder composition for gas blocks in this regard are different than those of other similar mixtures. Plasticity is maintained for a long time if the glue is stirred periodically.

Finishing

The walls of aerated concrete baths must be lined both outside and inside. There are different types of decorative materials that can be used to finish surfaces.

Internal

Features of the interior decoration of aerated concrete baths:

1. To waterproof walls under a decorative coating, you can use liquid glass or foil film.
2. The material with which the walls will be sheathed from the inside must be resistant to constant temperature changes and prolonged exposure to moisture.
3. Finishing work must begin with the floors. They can be covered with wooden flooring - continuous or with intervals to drain water. You can cover the floor with ceramic tiles.

For interior wall cladding you can use:

1. Siding. Plastic is not suitable for a steam room, but can be used for a washing room.
2. Lining made from different types of wood.
3. Ceramic tiles.

Surfaces near the stove must be covered with heat-resistant material. To do this, you can use basalt slabs, on top of which reflective metal sheets should be fixed.

External

Before fixing decorative materials, you need to coat them with a hydrophobic primer. For cladding you can use:

Environmentally resistant plaster.

Block house. Can be metal, wood, vinyl. Plastic or metal siding. Facing brick, decorative stone.

Lining made from different types of wood

It is important to cover it in advance with a protective composition against moisture and insects. Facade putty.

A bathhouse can be built from different materials - timber, unedged boards, bricks, foam and gas blocks. The latter option is popular due to its ease of installation and low price. Anyone without practical skills can assemble a bathhouse from aerated blocks.

Object cost

Those who have decided to acquire their own bathhouse made of aerated concrete are, of course, concerned about the issue of cost. Here everything largely depends on how complex the project was chosen for implementation. The simplest bathhouse made of this material will cost 10,000 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.

It is possible to arrange a more complex structure on the site. However, in this case you need to be prepared for serious financial costs. After all, the cost of constructing a large facility with a complex layout increases significantly.

You can do the construction of a bathhouse on your own site yourself. This will significantly reduce the budget for the construction of the facility. In this case, the main expense item will be the purchase of building materials.

The construction of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete is a cheaper measure compared to the construction of a building for steam procedures made of wood. An object for rest and relaxation can be obtained subject to the correct choice of aerated concrete blocks. The building material from has proven itself well. The blocks of this manufacturer are characterized by a homogeneous composition, have the same geometric dimensions, and their surface is absolutely flat.

Aerated concrete is an excellent material for building a bathhouse. It has many advantages and very few disadvantages. This structure can be easily erected with your own hands. When performing work, you must act in accordance with the developed project. In this case, many mistakes that novice builders often make can be eliminated.

If the main points of construction technology from aerated concrete blocks are observed, it becomes possible to construct a reliable bathhouse.

For its long-term operation, it is necessary to correctly approach the issue of interior decoration. In this case, the procedures in it will bring joy, and the need for repairs will not arise soon.

Advantages of this construction technology

Do-it-yourself technology for laying a wall of foam blocks.

Undoubtedly, bathhouses made of aerated blocks will delight their owners for many years. Installation of gas blocks does not require much effort and they are easy to install into the required structure. Aerated blocks are moisture resistant, so you don’t have to worry that the walls will absorb all the moisture, which is more than enough in the steam room.

The constructed baths do not require additional vapor and waterproofing. But if you wish, you can make the interior decoration with wooden lining. In this case, a gap of 10 mm must be left between the gas block and the lining. This will provide additional ventilation. In this case, the lining does not serve for waterproofing, but is rather of an aesthetic nature, because since time immemorial we have become accustomed to the fact that the walls in the bathhouse are made of wood.

Another advantage of aerated concrete, which manifests itself during the operation of the room, is its low thermal conductivity. This property allows you to retain heat for a long time, while the air in the room will be clean and safe, since the aerated block has a cellular structure and is 80% air. The bathhouse is either not insulated at all, or lightweight material is used. Aerated blocks are easy to cut; for drilling walls, almost the same set of tools is suitable as for woodworking.

Therefore, when all construction work reaches its final stage, you will receive a bathhouse in which it will be pleasant to relax after a busy day at work.

Aerated concrete can be used to build not only a one-story building, but also a two-story building. If your project includes openings whose width is more than 2.5 meters, then it is necessary to strengthen the structure using lintels made of reinforced aerated concrete. Building a bathhouse from aerated concrete involves construction tools for processing the blocks. All blocks are mostly the same size, but if a block does not fit, it can be easily reduced using a hacksaw.

An aerated block is easier to lay than a brick, due to the large size and comparatively lighter weight of the blocks. There are cases when other materials are used to build a bathhouse, and aerated concrete is used to install internal partitions for its good sound insulation. The foundation of the bathhouse should not be powerful, since aerated concrete is light in weight. If the soil is not unstable or mobile, a strip foundation with a sand base is used. Waterproofing material is laid on top of the foundation. Most often, rubyroid is used for such purposes; it protects the structure well from moisture penetration. The size of the waterproofing material must be greater than the width of the gas blocks.

Construction of walls from foam blocks.

If you are thinking about how to insulate a bathhouse, remember that aerated concrete is a warm material, so insulation should be minimal. In aerated concrete, unlike brick, it is much easier to drill a hole for hidden wiring with a hammer drill. In addition, electrical wiring does not require additional insulation, such as in wood. Facing the facades with bricks for such a bath will be very useful - ordinary aerated concrete looks unaesthetic.

To finish the bath, it is necessary to paint the walls of the steam room and washing compartment with a hydrophobic primer. After this, you can apply a small layer of plaster. First add dissolved tile adhesive to the cement mixture. Even beginners can use a bathhouse made from this material, provided they follow the construction technology.

Bathhouse made of aerated concrete: pros and cons

Choosing a material for construction is an important step; the heat in the steam room and the durability of the building will depend on its correctness. Aerated concrete baths have high thermal insulation properties and are comparable in durability to stone buildings. What kind of building material is this?

Aerated concrete is an artificial stone, which is a type of cellular concrete. During the manufacturing process, dry ingredients (cement, sand, lime, aluminum powder or paste, special gas generators) are mixed with water. A reaction occurs due to which the mixture increases in volume.

After drying in an autoclave, a porous material is obtained having the following properties:

• light weight
• heat transfer resistance
• exact geometric dimensions
• Ease of processing is comparable to wood - easy to cut, saw and drill
• affordable price

A bathhouse made of aerated concrete has a whole list of advantages that builders appreciate:

The light weight of the blocks allows you to lay the walls yourself. No need to use machinery to move material on site

Another advantage of a lightweight material is the possibility of constructing a strip foundation. Artificial stone is environmentally friendly. A clear geometric shape simplifies the work, allowing even a novice in construction to cope with it. Aerated concrete does not burn, this is an important property for buildings where there is a possibility of a fire from a hot stove. The level of thermal insulation of aerated concrete the blocks are not inferior to the timber. Biological resistance will not allow fungus and mold to appear on the walls Affordable cost is a significant argument in favor of the building material Aerated concrete does not shrink - this allows you to begin interior and exterior decoration immediately after the construction of the building

But there are no products without drawbacks; the disadvantage of aerated concrete is its high moisture absorption. In order for the building to be used for a long time, high-quality waterproofing and wall finishing will be required.

Tile. Warm floor

After installing the electrical wiring, you can begin finishing work. Such as, for example, laying tiles. Enough has already been written about this simple, at first glance, work on the site, so in order not to repeat ourselves, let us recall only some important aspects in our case:

1. Before laying floor tiles in the steam room and shower room, drains must first be installed. Drains in irregularly heated rooms must be “dry”.
2. For a steam room, you can take the cheapest floor tiles. Its main purpose is to ensure the proper sanitary and technical condition of the room, and not beauty (the tiles will still be covered with wooden ladders).
3. When laying tiles along inclined drains, it is necessary to carefully monitor the resulting plane; the formation of counter-slopes is unacceptable.
4. Don't skimp on grout. There is an expanded clay cushion under the tiles and screed, so that the tile joints should not allow moisture to pass through.
5. Under no circumstances should you lay tiles on gaps. In inconsistently heated rooms, moisture will certainly condense and accumulate underneath, which will tear off the tiles at the first frost.

But in the dressing room you will have to lay the floor tiles on heating mats. In general, heating the dressing room is a rather controversial topic. Many attribute this function to the heat that penetrates into the room from the steam room, others argue that a body heated in the steam room is not afraid of frost.

The whole truth is that in this state of affairs a person runs out of the steam room straight onto the cold floor. And our feet react very sharply to such temperature changes.

In such a situation, heating the dressing room with an electric heated floor is a fairly reasonable solution. And the heat comes directly from the floor, and nothing will freeze until the bathhouse is in use.

Installation of heated floors

Installing a heated floor is not difficult in itself, but, like any other work, it requires some knowledge. Work order:

1. This construction process was no exception and, like most similar works, it must begin with markings. You need to plan the floor for laying heating mats and a groove for the temperature sensor. Just a note: thermocouples should not be installed in places where furniture is installed, closer than 50 mm from the walls, or in close proximity to other heating elements (in our case, the heater firebox, which is often discharged into the dressing room). According to the design, you have connected the power supply to the distribution box in advance.
2. Next, the groove itself is made in the floor. There, in a tube specially designed for this purpose and tightly sealed, a temperature sensor is placed, the wire from which is pulled to the location of the thermostat. After which the groove is sealed again with sand-cement mortar.
3. After this, we clean the area and prime the floor surface with a deep penetration primer.
4. Now, according to the markings, the heating mats are laid out. If turning is necessary during the process, the mat can be partially cut without damaging the heating cable.
5. Next, the system is connected to the thermostat and checked for functionality by temporarily connecting it to the mains.
6. Once the serviceability of the heating system has been checked, you can proceed directly to laying tiles in the dressing room.

The technology for laying tiles in a dressing room on a warm floor is somewhat different from the usual technology for laying tiles. This is primarily due to the thickness of the applied layer of the adhesive mixture. When laying tiles on a heating mat, this value is about 10 mm, that is, you cannot apply it with a comb, which means you will need to lay the tiles carefully, carefully checking each tile. It would not be amiss to remind you that such a layer of glue will take many times longer to dry than the usual 3–4 mm.

Thickness and layering of walls

The bathhouse is not a living space and is heated only periodically, so there is no need to build massive walls in it. Excessive thickness only increases warm-up time, forcing you to waste more fuel. It’s not for nothing that standard designs provide for a wall thickness of 300 mm - it is the most optimal.

Taking blocks of greater width (375 mm) or laying a wall one and a half blocks long makes sense only in the northern regions. In a relatively warm climate zone, walls can be made no more than 200 mm, for which the same block with dimensions 60*20*30 cm can simply be laid on its edge.

A lot here also depends on the size of the building - a small bathhouse definitely doesn’t need thick walls. Moreover, the facade is also insulated.

A little about masonry

Work begins with preparing the foundation surface, which is most often uneven. When installing gas blocks, manufacturers recommend using special adhesive mixtures. This is more profitable, since glue, although more expensive, is consumed much more economically.

However, the first row of blocks is placed on a regular solution of cement and sand, and the foundation is also leveled with it. A screed is made, waterproofing is laid on top of it with mastic (to cut off the possibility of capillary suction of moisture), and then the bed for the first row of masonry is laid out.

Laying the first row of waterproofing

• All other rows are mounted with glue - with it the thickness of the seams is thinner, and accordingly, there are practically no cold bridges. Like any building mixture, dry glue is mixed with water, mixed, and swells for 5-10 minutes. Then it is mixed again and goes to work.
• Laying begins from the highest point of the foundation, determined by the water level. In the corners of the wall, ordering slats are placed, a mooring cord is pulled between them, which will make it possible to control the position of the blocks and the thickness of the seams.
• There should be no differences between the upper planes of neighboring blocks, as this can cause cracks to appear. They are sanded - like the block halves, which need to be sawn to complete the laying of the row. The next row begins to be laid on the side where the extension is installed - this will ensure the necessary displacement of the vertical seams.

About reinforcement

If the length of the bathhouse walls does not exceed 6 meters, there is no need to reinforce them in every 4th row.

It is enough that you provide reinforcement:

1. On the sides of the openings on top, where the lintels will rest.
2. In the penultimate row of masonry in front of the window opening.
3. Make an armored belt in the area of ​​the ceiling or support of the roof rafters.

Reinforcement of a number of gas blocks with rods

The masonry can be reinforced either with rod reinforcement: on walls with a thickness of 250 mm or more - in two rows with a diameter of 8-10 mm (on thinner ones, one rod with a diameter of 12 mm is taken). The reinforcement is placed in pre-cut grooves and embedded in glue. You can also use punched tape, steel or basalt mesh to strengthen the masonry.

Interior decoration

After laying the walls, they arrange the ceiling and try to quickly install the roof - to protect the construction site from precipitation. Then they begin to form the floor and only then begin to line the walls. First from the inside.

Traditionally, the walls of the washing compartment of the bathhouse are covered with wooden lining - a profiled board with a tongue and groove on one side and a groove on the other. It is mounted on a wooden sheathing, between the belts of which they lay, for example, foam plastic, covered with sheet foil on top.

Cladding made of clapboard in the steam room

• We have already mentioned the ease of use of materials such as Penofol and Tepofol. They have a great advantage over all known insulation materials, since with the same thermal conductivity they have a vapor permeability coefficient of only 0.001 mg/m*h*Pa. We can say the figure is zero.
• That is, such a material best protects against the penetration of vapors into the wall, while at the same time being a thermal insulator. Thanks to the foil layer, which must face the inside of the room during installation, it perfectly reflects heat.
• A vapor-waterproofing membrane is first installed under the polyethylene foam, making overlaps between the sheets, leading them to the foundation and to the ceiling, and fastening them with double-sided tape. Next, Penofol sheets are mounted end-to-end, gluing the seams with aluminum tape.
• Mechanical fastenings are made with dowels only along the top line, since the sheathing bars installed at the next stage will perfectly fix the rolled insulation. If the lining is mounted vertically, the bars are placed in a horizontal position - and vice versa.

Sunbeds

Now it’s time to arrange the sun loungers. To make them from lumber you will need: oak beams 60x50 mm and planed linden boards 40–45 mm thick.

First of all, according to the drawing, load-bearing trusses are made. Two of them are rigidly anchored to the opposite walls of the bathhouse.

The rest are installed between them in increments of 600–700 mm and screwed to the floor and rear wall.

During installation of the frame, it is necessary to ensure that similar elements of the support trusses are in the same planes. The resulting wooden frame is covered with linden boards. In this case, the boards of the horizontal planes of the sunbed must first be planed in a surface planer to the same thickness, and the joints of the boards must be processed with a special cutter.

The vertical planes are hammered in such a way that there are ventilation gaps of 3–5 cm between the boards. We also remember that there should always be space between the floor tiles and the first lowest board. Moisture should flow freely into the sewer.

For all self-tapping screws used during the installation process, “sunk holes” about 10 mm deep are pre-drilled, which are then closed with wooden plugs.

After assembly, the entire deck chair is sanded with sandpaper.

This is the design of the simplest two-tier lounger. Perhaps some people won't like it. But you can always design the one that suits you best. You just need to follow some rules:

1. The horizontal plane intended for steaming with brooms must have a width of at least 750 mm and be at a height of at least 800 mm.
2. There must be good access to the sun lounger on which steaming with brooms takes place so that the bathhouse attendant can easily do his job.
3. Inside, the structural space of the sunbeds should be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of dampness and mold formation.
4. The distance from the top shelf of the sunbed to the ceiling should be at least a meter.
5. All metal parts or fastening elements of the structure must be securely hidden so that they cannot be touched even by accident.
6. The entire structure of the lounger must be rigid and reliable enough to withstand the weight of all steaming people.

Why were gas silicate blocks chosen?

When I just started construction, many neighbors in the dacha community asked me a question about why I chose gas silicate blocks. Somehow everyone got used to either wood or brick. And my arguments are:

• Quick installation. Gas silicate blocks are larger in size than bricks, so the construction of walls from them is much faster.
• High thermal insulation. Gas silicate belongs to cellular concrete, that is, it has many air cells inside. They play the role of heat insulators. Therefore, a bathhouse made of gas silicate blocks, in comparison with a brick one, warms up faster and retains heat longer. In terms of thermal insulation qualities, gas silicate is not inferior to wood.
• Fire resistance. Gas silicate blocks do not burn, unlike wooden structures.
• Impossibility of rotting.
• Low cost compared to brick, timber or logs.

In addition, I have good bricklaying skills, so I decided that I could handle gas silicate blocks.

I'll start in order.

You will need

Materials: moisture-resistant plaster, waterproofing materials, antiseptic dry wooden block with a cross-section of 5x5 cm or 5x4 cm, environmentally friendly insulation, foil vapor barrier, staples for a stapler, metallized adhesive tape, self-tapping screws, scraps of wood or plastic 2-3 mm thick for gaskets, thin nails, clamps for fastening lining, lining made of aspen, linden, cedar.

Tools: drill, 6 mm concrete drill, nozzle for mixing dry mixtures, construction bucket, spatulas, wood saw, miter box, pencil, construction stapler, hammer, punch, screwdriver with nozzle, level, knife, sandpaper No. 80 and No. 120 , sanding machine or sandpaper holder, tape measure, square, vacuum cleaner.

Where to start building a bathhouse on the site, read the article>>

A couple of tips for insulation

As I already wrote above, not only the floor in the steam room should be insulated, but also all other rooms of the bathhouse. But here you should carefully consider the choice of material used. For example, only materials with a closed cell structure (foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.) are suitable for steam rooms and sinks. Due to the peculiarities of the microclimate created in these rooms, the use of mineral insulation is not recommended!

But the rest room or dressing room can be safely insulated with mineral wool and even construction felt (no one has canceled polystyrene foam either). In these rooms, the humidity is not so high, and therefore these materials will not be subject to strong influence and will help create a cozy atmosphere.

Well, that’s probably all I wanted to share with you in this article. I hope it will be useful to some readers. See you again, friends. And warm floors to you... Bye!

Small things

After installing the lining, the matter, in fact, remains small. Nail platbands, baseboards and various corners - flashings. Install sockets, boxes and switches. Finally connect the heated floor. And also eliminate all those minor imperfections and shortcomings that were left for later. All these little things, at first glance, are insignificant, but they will certainly take up more than one day of your time, and therefore, when doing work, try to leave as little as possible for later.

Vasily Molka, rmnt.ru

24.10.14

Finishing is the final stage of building a bathhouse made of aerated concrete

For interior cladding, you need to use environmentally friendly, natural materials. They must have excellent thermal insulation characteristics and be resistant to moisture.

The quality of finishing of a bathhouse is directly related to the comfort of its further operation.

The material that meets all the criteria is the following wood species:

• ash;
• coniferous species (spruce, pine) without resin;
• alder.

The bathroom or sink surface is tiled with ceramic tiles. To improve hydro- and thermal insulation, surfaces are insulated from the inside after the building has completely shrinked. Typically, a support beam is used for this, on which a wooden lining is attached. The free space formed between the wooden sheathing is filled with insulation – glass mineral wool. To make the microclimate as favorable as possible, lay a warm concrete floor in the bathhouse.

For exterior decoration it is not necessary to use expensive wood - these days vinyl siding, artificial timber or block house have proven themselves well. Decorative stone and facing brick will look good in combination with a metal tile roof.

Waterproofing with films

Waterproofing a bathhouse built from aerated concrete blocks is a complex of works that cannot be avoided. Insulation materials (stone and mineral wool) are rightfully considered effective materials. But if they are not protected by reliable and high-quality waterproofing, destructive processes begin. Moisture gets into the insulation, thereby reducing its properties. Also, increased humidity has a negative effect on aerated concrete blocks, since the structure becomes less durable. As a result, the risk of cracks and other unpleasant consequences increases, which lead to additional costs for restoration work.

Waterproofing film is best suited for protecting aerated concrete blocks from the negative effects of moisture. It is manufactured in accordance with the standards and has excellent performance characteristics. Film waterproofing is widely used because the materials fully fulfill their purpose. They do not rot over time and provide long-term use.

Waterproofing film has a number of fundamental advantages. These include:

• high strength;
• reliable protection of insulation and aerated concrete blocks from the harmful effects of moisture;
• resistance to the influence of negative factors;
• long service life;
• ease of installation.

Lining for room cladding

You should take a responsible approach to choosing wood for cladding. The greatest resistance to decay is inherent in coniferous species, but when heated they are capable of releasing resin. Therefore, it is better to use them when covering a dressing room or washing room. Of the deciduous species, oak has the optimal resistance; however, when wet, it becomes slippery. An important factor when choosing lining is the aesthetic side of the issue. Cedar, oak, and alder have rich, dark colors, while larch, hornbeam, and spruce are lighter in color.

Windows and doors in the bathhouse

It is advisable to make them wooden, for which pine or ash are suitable, and varnishing is allowed only on the outside, otherwise harmful fumes cannot be avoided. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to use polyurethane foam as a sealant; it is better to use natural materials, such as felt.

The windows in the bathhouse serve only for lighting, therefore, in order to reduce heat loss, they are made small and placed low.

Special attention should be paid to the door to the steam room - it should open exclusively outward and close only with a ball latch, so that it can swing open simply from a push or under the weight of the body if one of the visitors becomes ill. Dimensions are smaller than standard (to avoid waste of heat).

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse

When installing the electrical network yourself, you should not forget that in aerated concrete walls the cable, wound into a corrugated tube, is laid along grooves cut into the blocks. It is first recommended to carefully develop a layout of electrical appliances, as well as lighting points, sockets and switches inside the room.

According to the calculated power of lamps and other electricity consumers, it is necessary to select a cable of a suitable cross-section in order to avoid overloads and heating of the wire. Since the bathhouse is a room with high humidity, the insulation of the electrical network should ensure maximum safety, and sockets should not be located too close to the floor.

It is recommended to install a circuit breaker at the entrance of the electrical network to the bathhouse. It is also advisable to provide each wiring branch, in accordance with the diagram, with a separate fuse. This is a fairly important part of the work in installing electrical equipment, so if you can’t do it yourself, it’s better to invite specialists.

Characteristics of aerated concrete products

This building material has many advantages:

• Ease. Despite the fact that the blocks are large in size, they are very light, which greatly simplifies the work. Even an inexperienced builder can build a bathhouse from an aerated block with his own hands.
• Thermal insulation. Due to its porous structure, aerated concrete has good thermal insulation properties. If you build a bathhouse from aerated concrete, it will need less insulation.
• Durability and fire safety. This is a durable material that is resistant to rot, mold and attack by small rodents, and resistant to fire. Such properties ensure a long service life of aerated concrete products.
• Compliance. Aerated concrete blocks lend themselves well to manual processing. This allows you to build any complex structure with virtually no waste.
• Harmlessness. From an environmental point of view, aerated concrete is completely safe, which is confirmed by leading experts in this field.
• Affordability. Compared to other building materials, aerated concrete is low in cost.

In addition to its positive properties, aerated concrete material has one drawback - moisture absorption, and therefore requires external finishing.

Features of the work depending on the type of blocks

When designing the cladding structure and selecting thermal insulation, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the bathhouse caused by the material used for its construction.

Foam blocks

The specificity of the resource is its porous structure, since the production technology involves foaming a concrete mixture with protein additives and sand. Therefore, during insulation, the foaminess of the raw material leads to the fact that the blocks need to be protected from moisture as best as possible. Otherwise, excessive dampness will lead to a decrease in the thermal insulation parameters of the structure and its service life. You should not use polyethylene here; membrane films are more appropriate.

When insulating with foam blocks, you need to use membrane films

Expanded clay concrete

In the process of insulating a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks from the inside, the porous contents of the workpieces are also taken into account; they are made on a vibropress. This is an environmentally friendly and easy-to-build material; it absorbs moisture abundantly. When arranging the “pie,” you need to provide waterproofing from kraft paper and a foil screen.

Cinder blocks

The budget resource can have different standard sizes, and the low price is explained by the use of waste from the coal and metallurgical industries as raw materials. Products vary in size, weight, and thermal conductivity.

As in the case of expanded clay concrete blocks, a ventilated gap should be maintained during the assembly of internal insulation. For cladding, you can use wood in the form of a block house or lining; it must be impregnated with compounds intended for use in hot, humid microclimates. The boards should be sewn horizontally so that as the lower segment wears out, local replacement can be made.

Gas silicate

The insulation of a bath made of gas silicate blocks is carried out in accordance with the type of base material. If this is a category from D800, it means that the structures are characterized by insufficient thermal insulation and high strength. The gap between D500-D800 is characterized by average parameters in both respects, while blocks of grades below D500 have excellent insulating properties and low strength.

When insulated, aerated concrete products need to protect air cells from moisture penetration and contact with high temperatures, otherwise the raw material will lose durability and strength.

Bathhouse made of aerated concrete: photo

Let's look at the most common bathhouse designs. In most cases, land owners have to save space. Therefore, a bathhouse is often combined with a summer kitchen. You can also combine a bathhouse with a terrace or outdoor barbecue area.

If space allows, the relaxation room is made as spacious as possible. Here you can not only relax after the steam room, but also receive guests. It would be great if the design of an aerated concrete bathhouse (see photo) includes a bathroom and a small utility room.

Advice! You should not leave walls unfinished for a long time - the thermal insulation properties of wet material will decrease.

To protect against precipitation, it is also advisable to immediately prepare the roof and install windows.