Do-it-yourself cement plinth to look like stone

Natural stone on the base of the foundation looks beautiful, elegant and solid.
This material creates the image of a durable, reliable house, the owners of which took the external design seriously. It is not always possible to decorate the outer part of the base with expensive materials, which is natural stone.

To replace natural raw materials, but maintain a stately appearance, you can use a stone-like finish for the base, making it yourself from tiles, cement and panels.

The need for cladding

The base is the lower part of the external walls, which are located at the foot of the house and protect the space under the floor from the influence of the external environment. In some buildings this is a separate element that rises above the foundation, in others it is one whole. Cladding the foundation of a house solves two problems at once - decorative and practical.

Taking into account the nature of their location relative to the plane of the facade, plinths are divided into:

Falling ones are the easiest option to use. There is no need to install drains; exposure to mechanical factors is minimal. Visual characteristics are good.
Protruding – coming out from under the walls, they are the best choice for buildings with thin walls. The basement often has a warm, heated room. The presence of a drain is necessary, otherwise melted snow and water will begin to penetrate the foundation and destroy it.
Flush with the wall is the most rare type of structure due to the lack of normal waterproofing.

You will find out further how you can finish the foundation of a house from the outside. Options are available in a wide price range. The ideal solution from a practicality point of view is natural stone, baked brick or monolithic concrete, but they are expensive.

How much does it cost to finish the plinth with stone-look facade panels: price of material and cost of work

The cheapest material for making a plinth panel is PVC (750 rubles), since it is quite simple to manufacture and install, but has weaker performance characteristics. In Moscow, its average cost per 1 m2 varies from 710 to 900 rubles. The most expensive material is acrylic polymer (1050 rubles) - its price varies from 1100 to 1300 rubles per 1 m2.

In Nizhny Novgorod, the price range is approximately the same. One of the cheapest materials for making a plinth panel is PVC due to its ease of creation and relative ease of installation (880 rubles/m2). The most expensive material is polypropylene panels (1251 rubles/m2).

Pricing, at first glance, seems illogical, but in Moscow there is a flexible system of discounts when ordering in bulk. The indicated price does not include delivery - its price depends on the distance to the destination. In Nizhny Novgorod, the cost of delivery will be significantly lower, and pick-up is also an option.

Thus, pricing depends on the ease of manufacturing the panel, the ease of its installation, the region of production and the delivery distance.

If you consider the products of the LOBAS plant, the gradation of prices and quality of the material will pleasantly surprise you. Almost all plinth tiles are made of high-strength concrete, the price for 1 m2 is 770 rubles excluding delivery, and variations in shapes and colors allow you to choose the necessary panels for every taste. You can learn more about our prices for concrete plinth panels under stone on the company’s official website.

What material to choose for cladding the foundation

Different materials are used to finish the foundation - there are many options

At the moment, there are many different options - all of them, to one degree or another, are suitable for cladding the foundation (its visible part). But stone is, without a doubt, the most preferable solution. This applies not only to natural material, but also to its artificial counterpart. That's right: today, facing the foundation with stone can also be done with artificial material, many do so.

What is good about natural stone?

Why should you choose it? There are reasons for this:

Natural stone in finishing the foundation of a house is the optimal solution for suburban structures built of brick;
Also, this option is suitable for houses whose external design will be ideally combined with stone finishing;
Before buying a stone for cladding the foundation of a house, you need to know something about this material.

Of course, the cost of such slabs is far from modest (not every family will be able to afford such expenses), but this solution is for developers who want to do the job once and no longer worry about the foundation of their home (at least in the next fifty years) ;
When finishing the foundation with stone, it is necessary to have auxiliary materials so that the work is done efficiently. For example, a special glue is perfect as a fastener;
Its peculiarity is that it responds well to shrinkage of the house structure - which cannot be said about other possible methods of fastening;
If you choose a stone that is heavy to finish the foundation, you need to think about the supporting frame - it will serve as an additional fastening.

Covering the foundation with natural stone is a rather expensive solution, but the result is worth the investment

Why should you use artificial stone?

If natural material is not suitable, you can always use artificial material to cover the foundation

Artificial stone is often used to cover the foundation of a house. This option is more profitable in terms of cost, but compared to natural material it is less preferable.

What advantages are worth noting? They are:

The material has an impressive range of textures and colors (the range is much more extensive than that of natural stone);
It’s also nice that the pattern, which is an imitation of the structure of the stone, is almost impossible to distinguish from the pattern on natural material;
Another undoubted plus: the mass of products. Artificial products do not require additional fastenings: you just need to level the surface of the foundation. Plaster will always help in this matter;
Afterwards, the finishing material is glued without any problems - a special adhesive will help with this work.

Panel selection

Before choosing a specific sample for future cladding, you need to answer the questions:

Does the foundation need to be insulated?
Will the façade require ventilation?
Will the cladding be installed using a wet or dry method?
What size should the cladding elements be?
Will the work be done independently or by craftsmen?
Will you need support or strength lathing?
How much do you need to spend?

Having clarified the listed points for yourself, you can select samples according to pattern, shade, relief, not forgetting about strength.

Siding

The following tips will not be superfluous:

The front side should not have mechanical damage or defects, the paint layer should be uniform, the color of elements of the same batch should be the same, without halftones.
The thickness and rigidity of the material is assessed.
Checking the easy clicking of the locking system, tight connection (without gaps) of several elements.
Product certificates are being studied. Its characteristics are compared with the necessary requirements for the cladding of a specific basement structure.

Performing priming

All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape.

A durable and high-quality plaster coating can be obtained only with the correct use of a deeply penetrating primer in two layers. If the base part is to be painted, then only a façade primer with maximum drooping properties is used for processing. Only the use of high-quality materials and compliance with technological requirements for the preliminary preparation of the base for applying plaster can significantly increase the service life and improve the appearance.

Silicone quartz primer ST 15 Ceresit

If you plan to further perform decorative finishing work, then it is advisable to give preference to a façade adhesive or acrylic-based primer.

Type of primer composition

Features and Specifications

How to choose the right one

It is sometimes quite difficult for a non-professional to decide on the choice of material. Having a superficial understanding of the material, it is difficult to immediately understand what points to pay attention to. Only during installation or operation can you notice the deficiencies of the coating.

Here are some tips to help you avoid mistakes when choosing a basement covering:

during inspection, it is recommended to inspect the joints of the parts : they should not have gaps and have a tight connection;
you should check the locking parts : easy latching will free you from problems during installation;
the material must be thick enough and have rigidity due to the specific purpose;
the front surface of a separate sheet must be evenly painted , must not have chips or scratches, parts of the same batch must not differ in color;
You should be wary of inexpensive types : they may be of poor quality, which will affect the performance characteristics of the coating.

In addition, it is recommended to choose products from reliable manufacturers; when purchasing, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the certificates of conformity of the purchased materials and quality certificates.

Stages of work on the plaster foundation

the entire area of the concrete base (on the bricks do not require) a sharp metal object (solid screwdriver) incisions are made;
are aligned and primed surface;
crack (masonry joints) and recesses are wetted with water and filled with cement-sand mortar;
with dowels or staples “shoot in” chain-link fencing with a fine mesh;
Beacons are installed. To do this in every corner of the basement and through the 1.5-2 m between them, the following work:

Driving the various forms of the cap.

With gidrourovnya find and is drawn on the ground along the wall of a flat strip. It should go almost right up to the base, at the same time aligning it, but no closer than 2-3 cm to the most protruding part of it.
At the point of intersection of the angle (the wall) and the strip vertically mounted peg length equal to the height of the plinth.
The distance (gap) between the peg and the foundation “thrown” solution so as to obtain a vertical hill, attached to a building level to align it. At the same time it shall be verified vertical. Along the wall should be several of these lighthouses.
The pegs in the corner beacons are driven by 3 nails, between which stretched lace. It will be a guide for plastering. You should now have 3 lines of shoelaces: the bottom of the cap at the top and in the middle. By the cords and beacons should be a gap of 1 mm.

after cement mounds beacons dry, produced obryzg foundation. First, the surface is moistened with water, then with her ladle, trowel, brush with long bristles sprayed creamy mortar. The layer thickness - 5.9 mm;
on the dried up (not dried) “scratch coat” applied primer. It consists of the same cement slurry, but a liquid;
after “curing” the primer proceed to the next stage of plaster and a covering layer is applied. He performed more dense and plastic mixture. In this composition the ingredients are added waterproofing;
completion - rubbing surface to give it optimum flatness and smoothness. To do this, use a grater to set them fine mesh, special float concrete with a relief surface, the usual foam. It is important to choose the right moment to wipe: I must have “grab”, but its surface should be still quite wet.

Step-by-step instruction

When starting to install basement siding with your own hands, you should start with a supporting base. It is worth noting here that in some cases lathing is not required. When the walls of the house are perfectly smooth (from foam and gas blocks, etc.), sheathing as such may not be needed.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the planks you have chosen: wooden or metal. The next step is the correct placement of these planks.

There are three types of sheathing installation:

vertical;
horizontal:
combined.

For cladding the plinth, horizontal is best suited, since this is a small area with practically no openings. If you decide to cover the entire house with siding panels at once, then it makes sense to install a common vertical or combined sheathing.

Let's focus on the metal profile. From the outside, the profile strips are attached to the base using dowels and screws (if the wall material is brick or stone). An important point is to leave a gap of one to one and a half centimeters between the head of the screw and the sheet to allow temperature fluctuations to make changes in the shape and volume of all components without compromising the appearance of the siding.

For a timber base, you can use standard self-tapping screws or galvanized nails, also remembering to leave a small distance between the head and the base.

Do not forget, before installing the sheathing on the base, you must complete all steps to insulate or ventilate the facade. After installing the supporting structure, you will no longer have this opportunity.

Once all the work on installing the sheathing is completed, we begin installing the siding panels. The starting bar is installed first, which is a kind of guide indicating the path for further movement of the entire siding structure

Therefore, it is very important to use a building level at this stage. It also happens that the ground around the house is not level enough, in some places it is even very uneven

It is not possible to cut siding panels in such a way that it looks aesthetically pleasing. This is where the J-profile comes to the aid of builders. This is a metal bar with an external j-shaped harpoon hook. The profile is installed as close to the ground as possible, and the starting bar is attached to it without sacrifice or distortion.

To install the panels on the plinth sheathing, you should follow a certain sequence, which will help you quickly and efficiently install all the panels.

The movement of laying elements occurs from left to right and from bottom to top.

First, the corner siding element is installed.
The first piece is trimmed vertically along the left edge to completely line up that side. It is put on the starting strip or J-profile and moved as far as possible to the left to fit into the groove of the corner element. Don't forget to leave natural gaps between siding panels.

The level of this part is carefully measured. When it becomes exactly level, you can fasten it with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
Continue installing subsequent elements in the same way. Each subsequent row is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints do not run in a straight line along the entire height of the base.
Before installing the last row, the finishing strip is attached.

Installing basement siding is not a particularly complicated process, but it requires care and precision, without which it is impossible to achieve a good final result.

I would especially like to focus on covering the pile foundation with polyvinyl chloride panels.

Screw piles are used to base a house in those places where it is simply impossible to level the ground surface, and the owners do not want to bother and wait a long time. The main difference between basement siding in such structures is that first of all it is necessary to very carefully treat the piles themselves with a waterproofing agent and carry out all the necessary drainage work. Check for debris, vegetation or wildlife burrows under the house. The rest is all done in the same sequence as with a regular base.

Finishing materials used

Popular materials for finishing plinths:

plaster;
flat slate;
siding (cladding panels);
tile;
brick;
stone (natural, artificial).

Which material is better can only be said by comparing their characteristics.

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Plaster	low price, easy to use	the surface will first have to be leveled
Siding	light weight, work with any surfaces	need mounting frame
Clinker	attractive finish, durability, strength	labor-intensive preparation
A natural stone	labor-intensive finishing, high cost	significant weight
Brick	strength, durability, beauty	labor-intensive work, a sharp increase in loads on the foundation

Finishing the foundation of a house with siding

If the base of the house is a columnar structure made of stone, concrete or screw metal piles, it is necessary to close the gaps between the supports. The easiest way to do this is with special siding.

Finishing the foundation of a house (see photo below) with such material allows you to obtain a surface that is practically no different in appearance from that lined with natural or artificial stone. Advantages of this method:

comparatively lower cost;
long service life;
ease and speed of installation.

List of tools and materials needed for work

You should have at your disposal:

long (at least 600 mm) building level or rule;
tape measure, marker, marking cord;
perforator;
dowel-nails in the amount of 1 piece per 400 mm profile;
self-tapping screws with wide heads or washers (for fixing panels);
jigsaw, grinder, screwdriver;
pliers;
hammer.

In addition to siding, you will need a UD type metal profile (if necessary, it can be replaced with wooden blocks treated with an antiseptic). A small amount of roofing felt is needed (to protect the corners of the base of the house), as well as insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards).

How to calculate the required number of panels

Manufacturers offer panels in two sizes:

79.5 × 440 mm;
1270 × 470 mm.

The sum of all sides of the base must be divided by the length of the panel: this way we will find out the required quantity. In this case, the height of the plinth should be taken into account: if it exceeds the width of the panel, it is necessary to purchase additional material, the amount of which is calculated additionally. It is better to purchase panels with a margin for rejection and taking into account the waste generated when decorating the corners of the structure.

In addition to the panels, you may also need a starting strip (in an amount equal to the perimeter of the house), ebb and flow and other additional elements.

Step-by-step description of the cladding process

Preparatory stage: we clear the surrounding area and dismantle the temporary porch.
For a foundation on screw piles, a suspended sheathing is required, to which the panels will subsequently be attached.
We mark on one of the columns the level of fastening of the starting profile. It should be approximately 5 cm above ground level so that spring heaving of the soil does not lead to deformation of the siding panels.
Using a level and a marking cord, we transfer the level for the starting profile to all other racks.
Knowing the width of the panels, we set aside the corresponding distance from the starting profile upward and mark the level of fastening of the upper profile on all base posts. If the height of the base exceeds the width of the panels, additional profiles are installed. Intermediate profiles should also be provided.
We fasten the profiles with dowels and nails to the racks made of brick or stone. If steel screw piles are used, welding work will be required to install additional fasteners for the sheathing structure.
Starting from the left corner of each side of the house, we fasten the siding panels with screws with wide heads, installing them with the lower edge into the starting profile. Self-tapping screws must pass through the holes provided for in the panel design along the right edge. The next panel with its left edge should cover the screw heads.
We decorate the corners with special profiles that are attached strictly vertically. In this case, the starting profile should fit closely to the corner one (an overlap of 1 cm is allowed).
We leave a gap (about 2 mm) between the panels to compensate for their thermal expansion. The length of the last panel is adjusted to size, shortened using a grinder.
The upper edge of the panels is covered with ebb profiles. The seams between the panels are filled with a suitable color of sealant.

In conclusion, we suggest you watch a video demonstrating the process of finishing the basement of a house.

Which solution is needed to plaster the foundation

If indoors, you can use the compositions with the addition of gypsum, lime or clay, it is unacceptable for external works.

The circuit finishes plinth plaster.

The solution is allowed to enter only waterproofing components or plasticizers. Trade network offers many compositions for the exterior. For example, a manufacturer Knauf mixtures there are several options for the foundations. By and large, they are not much different from each other: only the percentage of the components and the admixture.

However, in this sense it is: a plastic composition is much easier to plaster the foundation for the subsequent butchering it “under a rock” or apply a decorative layer. Dry wipe with optimal sealing effect in regions with humid climate and in conditions of frequent flooding of the site. If you decide to prepare a solution on their own, in a water-repellent component can be used “Latex Professional”. This aqueous dispersion of synthetic resin is well compatible with the cement compositions. This liquid is discharged in containers of 11 liters and a weight of 10 kg is added to water when mixing the solution.

There is an opinion that the plaster is enough to cap 1: 5, but it is wrong. Such a composition quickly “fall down”. The optimum proportion for cementitious compositions is 1: 3. The sand must be sifted and certainly a career, not a river. The amount of water in the process is selected. For the layer of soil can be used more grout than a covering. The latter should resemble in consistency and cream so as to be flexible, but non-flowing.

Preparation grout

The proportions of materials in the preparation of the cement slurry.

through a large sieve or metal net with fine mesh sieved sand, freed from stones, mud and dirt;
if a cement brand M400, the percentage of sand - 1: 3, if the marks M500 - the 1: 4;
a mixer (or container in which the solution will get involved) first laying the dry ingredients, mixing them;
in water, prepared for mixing, add liquid formulations: waterproofing and plasticizing. Not so long ago, very popular for outdoor plasters used PVA glue. His was added in a small amount in the water and cement slurry took on plasticity and better adhesion.
water is added gradually, constantly controlling the density of the mixture. If necessary, add a colored pigment.

Preparatory work

The performance of hydro- and thermal insulation of the base, and therefore the entire building, depends on the quality of the preparatory work.

Waterproofing the base involves its external protection, as well as isolation from groundwater. To do this, a trench is dug around the entire perimeter of the base near it, the depth of which is 60-80 cm and a width of 1 m. In case of strong soil shedding, reinforcement of the trench with a metal mesh is recommended. Its lower part is covered with gravel to ensure drainage.

The surface of the base is cleaned, treated with water-repellent impregnations, and insulated.

Preparing the visible part of the base for cladding involves leveling the surface and treating it with a primer for better adhesion to finishing materials.

If you use a hanging system, you don’t have to waste time and effort on correcting minor defects. Of course, preparatory work in this case also involves cleaning and leveling surfaces and installing a frame for cladding.

What solution is needed for plastering the foundation?

While compositions containing gypsum, lime or clay can be used indoors, this is unacceptable for external work.

Scheme for finishing the plinth with plaster.

It is permissible to introduce only waterproofing components or plasticizers into the solution. The retail chain offers many compounds for outdoor use. For example, the manufacturer Knauf has several options for foundation mixtures. By and large, they differ little from each other: only in the percentage of components and the additives introduced.

However, there is a point in this: with a more plastic composition it is much easier to plaster the base for subsequent cutting it “to look like stone” or apply a decorative layer. Dry mixtures with a waterproofing effect are optimal in regions with a humid climate and in conditions of frequent flooding of the site. If you decide to prepare the solution yourself, then you can use Latex Pro as a water-repellent component. This aqueous dispersion of synthetic polymer is highly compatible with cementitious compositions. This liquid is produced in 11 liter canisters weighing 10 kg and is added to water when mixing the solution.

There is an opinion that 1:5 is enough for plastering a plinth, but it is wrong. This composition will quickly crumble. The optimal proportion for cement compositions remains 1:3. The sand must be sifted and certainly from a quarry, and not from a river. The amount of water is selected during the work process. For the primer layer, you can use a more liquid solution than for the covering layer. The latter should have a consistency similar to sour cream and be just as plastic, not runny.

Preparation of cement mortar

Proportions of materials when preparing cement mortar.

sand is sifted through a large sieve or metal mesh with a fine mesh, freeing it from stones, clay and dirt;
if M400 grade cement is used, then the percentage ratio with sand is 1:3, if M500 grade is used, then 1:4;
First put the dry ingredients into the concrete mixer (or the container in which the solution will be mixed) and mix them;
Liquid compounds are added to the water prepared for mixing: waterproofing and plasticizing. Not long ago, PVA glue was especially popular for exterior plaster. It was added in small quantities to water, and the cement mortar acquired plasticity and better adhesion.
water is added gradually, constantly monitoring the thickness of the mixture. If necessary, add colored pigment.

Where to buy from the manufacturer?

Today the market offers many options for plinth panels, and it is often difficult to choose “the right” material. Basement stone siding is perfect for finishing the base of any building. LOBAS products will appeal to even the most sophisticated, and here's why.

All products are manufactured in accordance with current GOSTs and SP.
We are ready to help create any panel design at your discretion.
A wide range of colors allows you to choose what you need.
For more than fifteen years, we have been responsible for the high-quality manufacturing of our products and control the entire production process: from customer drawings to delivery of finished products.
We offer basement siding and concrete plinth tiles at factory prices, and we also have a system of discounts on products.

In addition, LOBAS products regularly undergo independent laboratory tests and receive certificates of quality compliance with GOST requirements and other regulatory documents of the Russian Federation.

You can place an order for facing materials for the plinth both at the company’s office and on our official website.

If you need expert advice, you can contact our managers. They will be happy to help you in solving any difficulties that arise when choosing concrete tiles, and will also advise you on the price of products and methods of delivery. Call our toll-free number: 8 (800) 333-16-86. We are always happy to help you!

Additional foundation sheathing tips

What else does a craftsman need to know and take into account during work, so that finishing the foundation of a house with stone (or directly with this material) not only looks perfect, but also successfully performs a protective function?

It's time to pay attention to some tips:

Experienced craftsmen recommend working only from left to right. It is recommended to lay the stone from the corner (or from some specific element that divides the foundation) - and this is quite logical;
To achieve maximum reliability, it is better not to abandon the use of reinforcing mesh. It is customary to attach it to the base of the house - due to such an element, the adhesive base acquires additional strength, the stone will now last an order of magnitude longer: this has already been tested several times;
Before attaching the reinforcing mesh and finishing material, you can lay a thermal insulation layer - this will provide protection from the cold;
Sometimes steel reinforcement is used in the work (you should choose only thin rods). Also, during the selection process, you should make sure that there are no traces of rust or corrosion on these elements;
There are different types of plinths; there are a number of types: there are protruding ones (used for structures where the walls are thin), there are also sinking ones (thanks to these, moisture is guaranteed not to end up under the facing stone);
A protruding plinth is an excellent solution for a house located in a cold region;
This type of base needs protection. A special metal canopy is usually installed for it;
You should always remember about ventilation of the foundation - if it is being finished. You don’t need to try hard for this – a couple of holes are enough (ideal diameter is 130-180 mm). But, such “windows” are made on all sides of the house at once - then the base can be used for a very long time (it’s also worth reading about how to decorate the base with stone).

The facing stone can be different - you can choose a material that fits perfectly into the overall concept of the landscape

A very important point: you need to choose high quality material for the work. Especially if you decide to finish with artificial stone. In this matter, much depends on the manufacturer and his integrity;
If the price of a product is too low, you should not draw premature conclusions and immediately make a purchase. It is quite possible that there is a discount on the facing material precisely because of its low quality;
Can good finishing materials be cheap? This is quite possible - but it happens rarely. If there is some kind of marketing campaign going on;
That's all the advice. There are very few of them, but each is very important in its own way. If you follow these simple recommendations, the foundation will last a long time, and repairs will not be needed soon.

Results

Finishing the foundation with artificial stone is a good option today

Now every reader can imagine how to finish the foundation of a private house or a luxurious country cottage.

What material is suitable for this, why it is worth using stone, what advantages do natural and artificial stone have.

Today it is not necessary to work with your own hands - especially when there are no difficulties in terms of finances. You can always contact some construction company whose specialists will do everything you need in the shortest possible time, with a quality guarantee.

What determines the cost of the material?

The production process of base protection is fully automated. The resulting finished product has stable quality and the required characteristics. Identical equipment and a similar technological process cannot greatly influence the wide variation in the cost of panels from different manufacturers.

A fair increase in the price of panels occurs due to the use of higher quality raw materials and an increase in the thickness of the product. Other reasons are an additional payment for the brand, the release of a new fashionable collection of facing materials with an exquisite texture.

The quality of basement siding offered by many domestic manufacturing companies is not inferior to products from abroad. The purchase costs 1.5-3 times cheaper.

How to prepare the foundation for the application of the plaster

Driving insulating plaster.

if the foundation is laid of blocks or bricks must be cleaned seams. The narrow spatula or other suitable instrument from each well is removed cracked cement-sand mortar. After this brush with stiff bristles to be carefully “sweep” fragments, sand and dust;
if the house is on a concrete ribbon that during its operation on the foundation can be formed small and rather deep cracks. Here the preparation for the application of the plaster is somewhat different: all clearances should proshtrobit, that is, to destroy the edge of the slots as far as it lends itself to concrete. Thus, all the loose places will be eliminated and will be a solid foundation. Next, carefully crack “swept” dry brush;
preparation of any foundation assumes obligatory priming deep penetration of the composition. These liquids are available in containers of different sizes and are inexpensive. But if you can not buy a primer for the treatment of all of the foundation, will be enough to put structure on the slit and place chips. Make it a must as more reliable plaster “grab” to the surface of the base;
if over time the foundation was deformed and there were projections (small, not requiring radical measures - tightening and installation of concrete cages), the tape using the plaster can be leveled. But first protrusions are required to remove as much as possible.

How to prepare the foundation for applying plaster

Scheme of thermal insulation plaster.

If the base is made of blocks or bricks, the seams should be cleaned. Using a narrow spatula or other suitable tool, remove the dried cement-sand mortar from each recess. After this, you need to carefully “sweep out” the fragments, sand and dust with a brush with stiff bristles;
If the house stands on a concrete strip, then during its operation small and rather deep cracks may form on the foundation. Here, the preparation for applying plaster is somewhat different: all the gaps should be grooved, that is, the edges of the cracks should be destroyed as much as the concrete can be done. In this way, all weak points will be eliminated and a strong foundation will remain. Next, the cracks are carefully “swept out” with a dry brush;
Preparation of any foundation requires mandatory priming with a deep penetration compound. These liquids are available in containers of various sizes and are inexpensive. But if it is not possible to buy a primer to treat the entire foundation, it will be enough to apply the composition to the cracks and chipped areas. This must be done, since the plaster solution will “grab” more reliably on the surface of the base;
if over time the foundation has deformed and protrusions have appeared (small ones that do not require radical measures - tightening and installing concrete frames), then the tape can be leveled using plaster. But first you need to remove the protrusions as much as possible.

Kinds

Regarding basement siding, there are quite a lot of types, they differ in the material from which they are made:

the vinyl variety is made from polyvinyl chloride, the panels are available in different sizes. It is characterized by the fact that it imitates brickwork as accurately as possible. The material is characterized by resistance to deformation processes, which allows the products to be used in a wide temperature range. The only thing worth knowing when purchasing a vinyl type of basement siding is that the linear expansion coefficient must be taken into account during the installation process. This is necessary so that the product does not deform if a sharp change in temperature occurs;
the metal variety is made from zinc, aluminum or steel. Aluminum products are often used for private homes because it has the lowest cost. It is also convenient if there is a need to give the product a special color. A significant disadvantage of the panels is that in case of deformation, it is not possible to give it its original appearance. There is a possibility that on the metal type of siding, at some point during operation, corrosion will begin to appear at the cut site;
The cement variety is made from high quality cement mixed with various synthetic fibers. It is made through a pressing process, resulting in fiber cement siding. The material is characterized by reliability and strength, however, it should be used only on new buildings or, if necessary, to strengthen the old one. It is impossible to choose another option for such work.

Plastering the basement of a house with your own hands

The basement is the lower part of the building down to the floor of the first floor. As a rule, it protrudes beyond the plane of the load-bearing wall, forming a step. Often it acts as an enclosing structure for basements or semi-basements.

In cottage construction, the base is assembled from reinforced concrete foundation blocks, monolithic concrete or red ceramic bricks. These materials need protection from rain, snow, seasonal temperature changes, and they should not stand out against the background of the facade. Therefore, in most cases, plastering the foundation of a house is done with your own hands.

Painting

The most successful color scheme for finishing is to choose a base color that does not contrast with the main tone of the house. It’s even better if the shade of the resulting stone looks a little darker, “heavier” than the wall material. However, the choice of color depends only on your desire, and the base can be painted or plastered:

in one tone (the plaster is not painted or a continuous coating is done with one composition);
two tones (the stone differs from the seam cut);
several tones (color transitions imitate real material. This is the most expensive, effective and labor-intensive execution of finishing the foundation).

Stages of foundation plastering work

notches are made over the entire area of the concrete base (this is not required on bricks) with a sharp metal object (a strong screwdriver);
the surface is leveled and primed;
cracks (masonry joints) and recesses are moistened with water and filled with cement-sand mortar;
using dowels or staples, the chain-link mesh with a fine mesh is “targeted”;
beacons are installed. To do this, the following work is performed in each corner of the foundation and 1.5-2 m between them:

Diagram of various plinth shapes.

Using a hydraulic level, an even strip is found and drawn along the ground along the wall. It should go almost close to the foundation, simultaneously leveling it, but no closer than 2-3 cm to its most protruding part.
At the point of intersection of the corner (wall) and the strip, a peg with a length equal to the height of the plinth is installed vertically.
The distance (gap) between the peg and the foundation is “filled” with mortar so that a vertical mound is formed, to which a building level is applied to level it. At the same time, the vertical is verified. There should be several such beacons along the wall.
3 nails are driven into the pegs at the corner beacons, and a string is pulled between them. It will serve as a guide for the plaster. There should be 3 lines of laces: at the bottom of the base, at the top and in the middle. There should be a gap of 1 mm between the cords and the beacons.

After the cement mounds-beacons have dried, the foundation is sprayed. First, the surface is moistened with water, then a creamy cement mortar is sprayed onto it with a ladle, trowel, or brush with long bristles. Layer thickness – 5-9 mm; A primer is applied to the dried (but not dried) “spray”. It is the same cement mortar, but more liquid; After the primer has “set”, proceed to the next stage of plaster and apply a covering layer. It is made with a thicker and more flexible mixture. Waterproofing ingredients are added to this composition; the final work is rubbing the surface in order to give it optimal evenness and smoothness. For this purpose, graters with a fine mesh installed in them, special graters for concrete with a relief surface, and ordinary polystyrene foam are used.

It is important to choose the right moment for rubbing: it should already “set”, but its surface should still be sufficiently wet.

you can do it in different ways: embroider it “like a brick or stone”, make the surface embossed (decorative), leave it smooth. You can lay tiled or porcelain tiles on a concrete surface. All these technologies are worthy of attention and are selected depending on the aesthetic compatibility of the facade. But each of them is able to give the house individuality and decorate it.

How to create masonry from different raw materials yourself?

You can make masonry for the plinth yourself from different building materials. Most often, tile adhesive, plaster or concrete with cement are used for this. Raw materials are mixed in certain proportions, tools are prepared and the basement of the house is decorated.

From tile adhesive

This is one of the simplest, least labor-intensive processes for installing masonry on a plinth. To work you will need:

tile adhesive;
facade paint;
stain;
façade varnish on acrylic.

The tools you need are a spatula, a drill, a trowel, a brush, as well as a mixer attachment on the drill for mixing the solution. You will also need a Betonokontakt polymer dispersion, which allows you to increase the adhesion of the treated surface.

Step-by-step instruction:

Stir the concrete contact well with a drill until the lumps disappear.
Apply Betonokontakt to a previously cleaned foundation base.
Mix tile adhesive with water in the proportions indicated on the bag.
Using a trowel and spatula, apply tile adhesive to the base. For 8 squares it takes about 2 bags of glue solution.
When the top layer has already dried, and the tile adhesive inside is still wet, you need to clean off all the protrusions with a spatula.
You can make the shape of the future stone from polystyrene foam. It can be a regular rectangle or a product of any shape.
The form is applied to the base and traced along the contour.
Using colored impregnation, it is necessary to rub all the seams - this will further highlight each stone.
When the impregnation dries, the same color is used. It is used to paint “stones” by rubbing the paint into the structure with a cloth.

This type of masonry is similar to stone and is difficult to distinguish from natural raw materials. At the end of the work, you can go over all the protruding parts with sandpaper.

The video will show you how to make stone masonry using tile adhesive and stain:

Plastering

To independently create masonry from plaster, prepare the following tools:

notched spatula,
chisel,
Trojanka,
bush hammer,
scalpel.

To mix the plaster you will need water, a basin or bucket, and a drill with a mixer attachment.

Stages of work:

Preparing the basement wall. The surface is carefully leveled and cleaned of chips. All large cracks and differences are filled with a cement-sand mixture. If the depressions are small, they are filled with putty.
The surface of the base is primed for better adhesion to the plaster.
Preparation of the mixture. Plaster is prepared from cement, sand and water. The proportions are calculated as follows: take 4 parts sand and water for 1 part cement. It is added so that the mixture is homogeneous and thick. The mixture should be easy to form into stones.
The mixture is applied with a spatula to the base in small strokes. It is better not to apply a large amount of the mixture at once.
The formation of stones occurs with gloved hands dipped in water. While the solution has not yet hardened, it is given the shape of a stone.

You can give the desired shape using a scalpel and the tools listed above. It depends on what type of stone you want to imitate.

Apply a primer to the dry coating, wait until it cools, then apply paint with a brush. To highlight the relief, you can rub in a contrasting color of paint.

Made from concrete and cement

To make individual “stones” from concrete and cement, you need to purchase silicone molds . They are sold in special construction stores. One mold contains several cells for stones of different shapes. The finished solution is poured into the mold, left to harden, then removed and used for masonry.

Using a drill with a mixer attachment, mix cement, polymer materials, and resin. The solution is poured into the prepared form. To ensure the strength of the future stone, a mesh is used - it is placed in a mold.

After pouring, it is necessary to compact the mixture to avoid the formation of bubbles . For this purpose, a vibrating plate or a manual compactor is used. If the stones are small and the shape is not heavy, then you can lift it and knock on the surface several times to release excess air. The products harden for 1 day, after which they can be taken out.

The forms can be made of wood, but it is difficult to get ready-made stones from such structures.

The video will show you how to make artificial stone from cement:

Plaster cladding of the plinth: advantages and disadvantages

The base of the house is regularly moistened by rain, melt water and snow. Finishing with plaster makes this part of the building as resistant to negative factors of this type as possible. Here we can talk about resistance to chemical corrosion and direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

A thick layer of plaster provides additional thermal insulation. The cement base makes the coating moisture resistant, and the reinforcement eliminates the possibility of cracking during subsequent use. Multi-layer finishing guarantees that this coating can be used for a very long time.

Characteristics of plastering plinth

no need to use special equipment for installation;

wide selection of colors and textures;

ease of installation;

high maintainability of the coating;

affordable price.

insufficient degree of insulation;

moisture permeability;

insufficient strength (compared to other finishing options);

gradual decrease in strength level.

Important! To ensure the maximum service life of such a coating, it is very important to follow the established rules for installation work

Methods of using sading in the interior and exterior

Basement siding is a wide range of panels in a wide variety of relief patterns, shapes and shades. Such a variety of varieties is not present in every decorative material. At the same time, the installation of vinyl and cement panels is carried out both on the facade of buildings and in the premises. Walls can be decorated completely or in separate areas, combined with other modern finishing materials. For example, rocky terrain looks great with smooth plaster. Imitation cobblestones on the base are combined with conventional siding panels on the facade, but are in no way suitable for a small house with a high base.

There are a lot of combination options, so the design of the building must be carefully thought out and the best chosen. Optimal is the visual distinction between the basement of the building and the wall; for this, you can select facing materials of different textures or shades. Siding can be used to cover hallways, kitchens, lobbies of hotels and public institutions. The choice of options is always large, the main thing is to find the only correct solution.

Etapi robot on plaster foundation

all over the entire area of the concrete plinth (nothing is needed at all) using a sharp metal object (a screwdriver) to make notches;
the surface is verified and primed;
cracks (seams of masonry) and grooves are wetted with water and filled with cement-stained soil;
with the help of dowels and staples, the chain-link mesh with a split edge is “adjusted”;
Beacons are installed. For which steps are placed in the skin foundation and 1.5-2 m between them:

Scheme of different forms of the base.

For additional hydraulic levels, find out and climb along the ground along the walls and along the smudge. You must walk right up to the foundation, immediately checking it, but not closer than 2-3 cm to the most protruding part.
At the point of the webbing of the corner (wall) and the smudge, a pin is installed vertically, equal to the height of the plinth.
The space (gap) between the joint and the foundation is “filled” with a split so that there is a vertical mound, before which heavy rhubarb is applied for its alignment. The vertical suddenly vibrates. There must be a handful of such lighthouses.
At the pin of the heel beacons, 3 pins are hammered in, between which the lace is stretched. This will serve as a reference point for plastering. There may be 3 lines of laces: at the bottom of the base, at the top and in the middle. Between the cords and beacons there is a gap of 1 mm.

After the cement hump-beacons dry out, the foundation is sprayed. Wet the surface of the surface with water, then sprinkle creamy cement grit on it with a ladle, trowel, or brush with long bristles. Thickness of the ball - 5-9 mm;
primer is applied to the dry (not dry) “brush”. Vin is of the same cement grade, but more rare;
After “flashing” the primer, proceed to the next stage of plaster and apply a paintball. The wine turns out to be thicker and more plastic. Hydroisolating ingredients are added to this warehouse;
The final steps are to rub the surface to achieve optimal evenness and smoothness. For this purpose, vikorist graters with a fine mesh inserted into them, special concrete graters with a relief surface, and standard polystyrene foam are used. It is important to choose the right moment for grinding: you are guilty of “shopitis”, but the surface is guilty of buty sche dosit voloyu.

can be carved: embroider it “under the whole or stone”, make the surface embossed (decorative), make it smooth. Behind the concrete surface you can lay tiles or porcelain tiles. All these technologies are carefully chosen and selected in accordance with the aesthetic appearance of the façade. They can also be used to add individuality and beautify your home.

Preparing the base for finishing

Before covering the base, it should be properly prepared for this.

Since it is very important for the entire building, care must be taken to ensure its safety. To do this, it should be well insulated and waterproofing materials should be installed. Also, before this, you should take care of choosing the material for cladding the house, for example, choosing siding

Also, before this, you should take care of choosing the material for cladding the house, for example, choosing siding.

The entire structure is adversely affected by atmospheric phenomena such as rain, wind, snow, and changes in temperature conditions. The main task is to prevent cold air. It should not leak into the building. Otherwise, it will displace warm air. Another unpleasant phenomenon will be condensation, which is sure to appear at the point of contact of cold and warm air masses.

Base finishing

Condensation is very dangerous, since moisture provokes the appearance of various mold and fungal growths

So it’s important not to skip the preparatory work

If the house is not new and was built quite a long time ago, then it is worth carrying out work to free the basement from the ground. You will have to remove the soil to the required level.
Then the walls should be left for a while to dry thoroughly.
After this, you should clean and level the working surface so that the finish of the base is as smooth and correct as possible. This way the slabs of insulating material will lie flat and tight to the foundation.
Installation of insulation boards occurs from bottom to top.
To secure, use special long dowels.
After laying the slabs, they are often reinforced. For this purpose, a construction mesh is used. The cladding is installed directly on it.

The lower part of the foundation walls should be covered with earth. Waterproofing actions occur before insulation and cladding work takes place.

Foundation treatment scheme

Preparation begins with a thorough inspection of the foundation:

it must be durable and have a smooth surface;
you need to remove all dirt, dust and debris so that it does not interfere;
if you notice any recesses and other defects, then use special means to remove them and level the entire surface of the base as much as possible; you can also use plaster for this;
after everything is done, let the surface dry thoroughly;
now you should treat everything with a primer to increase the adhesion between the finishing layer and the facade itself;
if panels are used in the finishing, then preliminary lathing is indispensable.

Advantages and disadvantages

Finishing the base with plaster is the most popular method, but like any construction technology, it has a number of advantages and disadvantages:

Advantages

Plaster can be applied both on a clean base and on insulation.
The plaster mixture is easy to prepare at home; you can buy it ready-made in bags. Application does not require special and expensive tools. All work can be done with your own hands.
Huge selection of dry textured plaster mixtures. The finished surface can be painted in any color, which allows you to create a unique facade for each home.
High coefficient of vapor permeability. The walls breathe without accumulating moisture in the thickness of the building structure.
Affordable price. Reasonable prices for materials and work per square meter.

Flaws

The service life of a plastered plinth is much shorter than that of a stone one.
In some cases, the plaster layer is not strong enough. It can be destroyed or damaged. Even a small chip or crack gets water, which gradually destroys the plaster layer.
Ordinary cement-sand mortar absorbs moisture. Ready-made complex plaster mixtures have a lower moisture absorption coefficient, but still not sufficient. Therefore, the finished surface is painted with special façade water-despresion paints.
In its pure form, plaster freezes. There are heat-insulating types of plaster mixture, but they do not give a good result without the use of sheet insulation.

What is the best plaster for the plinth. There is no direct and unambiguous answer to this teenager. Plastered mixtures can be divided according to composition and texture of the finished surface.

Example of textured plaster

They are divided according to their composition:

Plaster based on Portland cement and sand. An inexpensive material that is used for the first leveling layer, exclusively on a clean stone or concrete base. It is also possible to plaster the base using a mesh and then apply a second finishing layer or paint it with façade paint. You can buy a ready-made mixture or mix the solution directly at the construction site.
Portland cement-based plaster with additives that allow it to be applied to surfaces lined with basalt mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Used to obtain a base layer or as the only finishing material.
Plaster based on acrylic resins. It can be applied either to a clean concrete or brick surface or used for “wet facade” technology. It is moisture resistant and does not crack due to seasonal temperature fluctuations. Due to the presence of mica, small stones or flax fibers in the composition, it is suitable for creating a decorative textured surface.
Silicone plaster. The most expensive and high quality material. It is elastic and durable, does not collapse due to shrinkage deformation and seasonal temperature fluctuations. It has a high coefficient of vapor permeability, which allows the base to “breathe”. Used only for the final decorative coating of the facade.

Classic smooth

The first base leveling layer is made of cement-sand plaster or plaster with additives. The second layer of finishing facade putty. Then the base is painted.

Decorative

A more effective option. Due to additives in the solution or mechanical action on the surface, a relief pattern is obtained. There are several types:

"Bark beetle." A popular mixture for finishing the base. After application, an original surface is obtained, covered with small grooves;
A composition that imitates a surface covered with granite or marble chips;
"Lamb." The surface of the base becomes rough to the touch;
“Venetian”, After application, the effect of cladding the base with large pieces of marble is created.

Necessary tools and materials for installation

To install basement panels with your own hands, in addition to siding panels, you will need various building materials and tools.

Metal profiles;
Insulation;
Vapor barrier film;
Screws;
Dowels with a length of at least 100 mm;
Screwdriver;
Drill with a pobedit drill bit and a drill bit designed for metal;
Grinder with a disc for cutting plastic, metal and stone;
Level;
Scissors.

The canopy over the protruding part of the base can be made from sheets of galvanized steel, plastic, or use special tiles to match.

Do not use wooden beams to create sheathing. For wooden products, the danger is not only high humidity, but also fungus, which is not always noticeable when purchasing.