How to make a concrete bucket with your own hands? Do-it-yourself solution trough Features of a rotating container.

Something new is constantly appearing in the creation of interior design, and the latest innovation is the elements of concrete present in various furniture, this is especially true in the kitchen or in the country house. However, you should not limit yourself only to the kitchen set; a coffee table in the living room with a concrete tabletop will look very original and interesting.

And it’s quite easy to make such a tabletop with your own hands, and you don’t need a lot of experience to create it; almost anyone can make it, the main thing is the desire.

Necessary materials

The main part that solves many problems with physical activity is the shape of the tub itself. A round or elliptical shape is ideal for this task. If you can afford to buy a 200-liter barrel of fuels and lubricants, then you have already done more than half the job.

One barrel will make two buckets.

By selling the second copy, you will fully recoup the cost of materials, so your tub will cost you nothing, and maybe you will also earn extra money. By the way, it is much better if it is a thick-walled barrel. The thickness of the metal should be somewhere around 1.5 - 2 millimeters (it is possible that they are no longer produced today). This tub will serve you for many years, even if you use it every day. If you use a tin barrel, it will not be enough even for a season.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a thick-walled barrel, then the container itself can be made from sheet metal of the specified thickness. This thickness can still be bent to the desired diameter without resorting to outside help.

One container will fit a square of 900x900 millimeters and two semicircles with the specified long arc. The sides can be manually made into ellipses with a bend length of 900 millimeters, elongated horizontally.

For one tub you will also need:

two pieces of pipe with a diameter of half an inch or three-quarters (horizontal bars along the edge of the barrel cuts);
four pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 14 millimeters (or thicker) or a corner with an edge of 35 millimeters, 450 - 500 millimeters long (these will be the legs of the tub);
four pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 - 10 millimeters, a length of 400 to 600 millimeters - these are spacers that give rigidity to the legs;
4 coins made of thick metal or two pieces of reinforcement of any diameter 500 - 600 millimeters long. A foundation will be made from them on which the tub will rest so that it does not sink into the ground. A corner is also good for this purpose. In general, look at what you have on hand in your household supplies...

To make a shovel, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of three quarters of an inch, a length of 1100 - 1200 millimeters - this is the holder, and a square or rectangular piece of sheet metal 200x200 mm, or 200x250 mm, 2 - 3 millimeters thick - this is the blade of the shovel. The canvas can be made from an ordinary old bayonet shovel. It is thinner, but the metal has undergone heat treatment, so it has sufficient strength. In this case, you will need to align the bends where your feet rest and cut off the pointed end.

The indicated sizes are ideal for a person with a height of 170 - 180 centimeters. If you are much taller, then simply place boards or bricks under the legs of the tub to such a position that it is comfortable for you to work without bending too much.

As tough as it is durable

Every thing has its own positive and negative features, and only you have the right to decide which positive qualities will impress you, and which negative aspects will not frighten you.

Regarding this idea, everything is exactly the same - despite the fact that this dark gray hulk has wheels, it will not be so easy to move it.

Therefore, our advice is to immediately find him a better place and then he will only make you happy. The design of this option was developed by Patrick Dogignies, he made it from rough cement.

Making a container for preparing concrete from a barrel

If you bought a barrel. It is ringed with a round corner that needs to be trimmed. This is by-product scrap metal that is of no use now. After that, inspect the barrel. It has a filler neck and a longitudinal weld. The barrel will need to be cut lengthwise so that the weld seam is not far from the cut.

There is no point in cutting along the seam itself: firstly, the seam metal is stronger (hardened), and secondly, it is thicker.

Step back from the seam by 5 centimeters or a little more. Then you will not get on the second layer of metal, which is overlapped from the inside - you don’t know in which direction it is launched.

Having cut the barrel, this excess strip must be carefully cut off and the inside of the weld seam must be sanded down to the level of the surface of the barrel. Try to cut exactly in half, without shifting, so that the different semicircular edges do not turn out one against the other. It’s good, but it doesn’t matter if the cut goes past the filler neck.

Now you need to weld half-inch pipes along the cuts of the barrel cylinder.

They need to be welded so that they are on the outside of the container without going inside. This is clearly visible in the photo on the right tub.

It is much more convenient to cook from the inside of the container along the cut end, but then you will need to sand the seams so that they are not sharp. Great grinding quality is not required. For reliability, you can make several penetrations along the entire length of the pipe from the outside.

The container is ready. In this container, you can easily prepare a batch of mortar for five 12-liter buckets of sand, or a batch of concrete with a proportion of 1/3/4, measured in the same buckets.

Benefits of concrete

Such countertops are simply irreplaceable for country furniture : they don’t get wet and don’t spoil!
To update an old table , just cover a worn-out table with it - and you will get a super modern thing.
For the kitchen - they do not deteriorate and are very durable!

Making a container for preparing a solution from sheet metal

If we couldn’t purchase a barrel, we’ll make do with sheet metal, from which we need to cut a square with an edge of 900 millimeters and two semicircles with the specified arc length (this size corresponds to the size of a tub from a barrel, and this is a very convenient size) or another size, as will be more convenient for you. If you need a tub of a different size, calculate the length of the arc and the width of the tub and build on these dimensions.

First, half-inch pipes are welded at the ends as shown in Figure-1.

Fig 1. Making a container for preparing a solution from sheet metal.

Stepping back a couple of centimeters from the edges, draw straight lines perpendicular to the welded pipes. You will weld semicircles along them. We will simultaneously weld both semicircles, gradually bending the sheet and fixing the structure. Let's start from one of the pipes - securely grab both semicircles with their ends at the ends of the sheet near the pipes and weld 1 - 1.5 centimeters along the semicircle. The semicircles must be held perpendicular to the sheet of metal. After both semicircles are tacked, we turn the structure over with the curves of the semicircles facing up.

Now it will be convenient for us to gradually bend the sheet of metal down, holding it by the second welded pipe. Gradually tilting it, you need to make tacks on both semicircles, approximately every 5 - 7 centimeters.

Figure 2. It is better to make these potholders from the outside of the tub. Make sure that the sheet metal adjoins the semicircles along the drawn lines. Then the tub will not be deformed.

When the sheet is tacked along the entire length of the sides, do not rush to weld the seams so as not to deform the container. We’ll scald them later, when we’ve given the structure the required rigidity.

Final stage and decoration

Dismantling formwork requires care. Disassemble the entire structure, remove the sides. Turn the formwork over and tap the entire surface with a rubber hammer. This will allow the hardened concrete mixture to easily separate from the plywood sheet.

This table cover is suitable not only for the kitchen, but also for the dining room, living room or terrace.

After the concrete has completely dried and you have dismantled the formwork, you need to sand the surface. This will smooth out all the unevenness, remove glue and air pores, and prepare the tabletop for further painting or varnishing. The grinding process also reveals the decor embedded in the concrete texture. All small stones, glass and beads will not “sparkle” if they are not polished first. You can also cover the countertop with decorative tiles or make it look like natural stone.

After sanding, allow the tabletop to dry thoroughly.

Then the surface is leveled and smoothed using an acrylic-cement composition. Mix the mixture to a semi-thick mass and apply to the surface of hardened and polished concrete. This will fill all the cracks and microcracks. The mixture must be applied at least three times, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly. Between stages, sand the surface to avoid the formation of “waves” and unevenness. The last, third layer is not sanded, but left overnight until completely dry. Finally, the tabletop is processed with a grinding machine. Critically evaluate the finished work. Are there any cracks or pores left?

You can also process a concrete countertop manually using sandpaper. But this will require a lot of effort and time.

The polishing step adds attractiveness and smoothness to the countertop. Please note here that the polishing pad must be wet. Then apply primer varnish in one or more layers. Remember that each application of varnish must dry thoroughly. All that remains is to polish the tabletop with wax and, after hardening, clean it with a soft towel. Your tabletop is almost ready.

If you follow the consistency and rules of working with interior concrete, making a tabletop from it will not be at all difficult.

Manufacturing of racks

The easiest way would be to make the racks separately and then weld them to the container. To do this, we place reinforcement or a corner on the ground, which will be the base. We attach the legs to it at a slight angle so that they expand towards the base. We grab the legs to the base, then spread the opposite edges of the legs to a distance of the width of the container (you can attach them close to the container so as not to bother with a ruler or tape measure). Make sure the legs meet at the same angle. In this position, scald the legs and base. One rack is ready. We make the second rack in a similar way.

Sections for storing things of the most practical owners

Jeremy Kaplan is the designer who came up with another great and interesting version. There's space to put your stuff at the top, and there's space to stash a stack of magazines at the bottom. Chic and at the same time functional.

Assembling the details into a single whole

Place the container on the ground with the curve up. We place the stands on the sides so that they are perpendicular to the ground, and grab them to the container. We take spacers and also attach them to the racks and container on both sides. If the length of the spacers allows, then they can be welded to the bend of the racks and the middle of the pipe on the container. If there is no required length, then at an angle of 45 degrees to the stand and container we look for something in between.

If we are satisfied with the resulting shape (the main thing is that the base of the posts is parallel to the ground), we scald the tacks of the spacers. We repeat the same with the second rack.

All we have to do is weld the seams along the bend of the container so that they are “sealed” and do not allow water to pass through. If you have excess metal and you plan to use this tub a lot, you can increase its service life if you weld an additional strip 7–10 centimeters wide from inside the container along the bend to the semicircle. This is the weakest point of the tub, where it is most likely to fray.

But even if you don't, it will last you for many years.

The tub turns out to be quite light.

One person can carry it without difficulty. And you can even transport it on a scooter by turning the legs forward and passing them under the steering wheel, and lowering the container onto the seat.

Timeless does not mean old-fashioned

Very, very stylish, that’s how you can describe this low coffee table. Such a laconic and yet impressive model can be explained simply by knowing what it is made from - a combination of wood, steel and concrete, in such a fairly delicate and at the same time reliable design.

This development belongs to Jérôme Tison, the base is wood plus a waxed concrete surface treated with a special coating. For greater effect, the designer added a 2-liter burner.

Making a shovel

It is worth removing a little metal from one end of the pipe so that the sheet of the shovel blade sinks into the pipe and is flush with the edge of the pipe.

This will make it more convenient to weld the parts together.

The overlap of the fabric on the pipe must be sufficient, about five centimeters, because the load will be large, especially during mixing of concrete.

The width of the shovel blade should not be wider than 20 centimeters and longer than 25, otherwise it will be difficult to knead. The ideal size is 20x20 centimeters.

It is advisable to chamfer the other end of the pipe so as not to cut your hand.

It would be nice to make the end of this pipe a little larger in diameter, for example an inch. Then, if you have weak hands, it will be easier to rotate the shovel around its axis. Ideally, weld a ball with a diameter greater than the diameter of the pipe end to the end. Especially if you are tall, or the length of the handle is shorter than indicated at the beginning of the article. Then there is a high probability that you will hold on to the edge of the holder, and the ball will prevent the appearance of calluses.

Preparing to make a tub

If you want to make your own container for supplying concrete, you should give preference to a device in the shape of a glass. The price of such a product is less than a similar one, but shaped like a shoe.

In this case, you need to purchase:

Rolled products of the required thickness and quality;
For installation of the structure - special guides;
Welding apparatus;
Cutting tools of any type.

Tip: For self-production and home use, the container volume should be chosen small, approximately 0.5 m³. In this case, there is no need to manufacture an additional cylindrical upper part of the body, which will increase the loading speed of the device.

A truncated cone is a regular prism, the bases of which have diameters of different sizes.

Instructions for obtaining the workpiece:

Based on the required volume, calculate the parameters of the cone:

Having determined the optimal dimensions of the radii of the product, its height is calculated.

Based on the obtained dimensions, a part template is prepared;
The template is transferred to a metal sheet.

Making a container

When making a tub yourself, you should remember that the material for the container is constantly exposed to the aggressive effects of the building mixture and moisture. Therefore, it is advisable to choose rolled steel from stainless steel or take into account the thickness of the metal. In this case, the steel grade must be low-carbon, easily weldable.

After transferring the template for the cone blank onto the rolled metal, the part is cut out using a grinder, rolled and welded.

Frame making

In order for the structure to have high strength and reliability, the resulting container must be placed in a frame:

For its manufacture, you can use reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm or 12 mm, profile or bent corners and channels.
A cube is assembled, the bases of which have the form of squares, the side of which corresponds to the upper diameter of the manufactured container.
The length of the structure is equal to the height of the tub. Additionally, a square is made in the lower plane of the frame, with sides equal to the lower diameter of the cone.
When installing a cone, elements are used to hold it in the desired position and ensure the rigidity of the entire structure.
Hinges are welded to the frame to move the product with a crane.

Anyone can find out how a tub for pouring concrete is made by watching the video in this article.

Often, when constructing buildings or other structures, concrete solution needs to be delivered to the construction site and then poured into a special container. For this purpose, a bucket is used to supply concrete.

This will help simplify the construction process. This is especially true when concreting multi-story buildings, when the mixture needs to be raised to great heights or to hard-to-reach places.

Source

How to quickly and easily prepare a batch of concrete or cement mortar

The design of the tub allows you to knead with minimal effort. Using a rounding allows you to work not with great muscle strength, but with your weight.

Place the shovel on the edge of the mixture.

Use your weight to push it down to an almost horizontal position.

It slides around the circle and lifts part of the mixture.

You turn the mixture raised on a shovel along with the shovel and dump it next to it.

Now pull the poured mixture towards you with a shovel.

At the same time, move the shovel up and down, as if cutting the solution.

It is better to start kneading from the place in the tub where the water has accumulated, but do this without very sudden movements so as not to stain yourself with splashes.

After you have performed the described actions several times in one place, move to the side by the width of half a shovel or the entire width, and dump the mixture onto the one that was already stirred before, and again bring the mixture to the desired state.

This way, you will knead the mixture quickly enough and get less tired.

Creating drawings and diagrams

To avoid possible mistakes in the early stages, take the most accurate measurements possible. Measure all parameters, including the location of the sink, outlets and other nuances available in the countertop area.

Creating a drawing will be required; this step will help to accurately manufacture the structure.

If you plan to make a hole for the sink, check the numbers several times. This is a case where every millimeter is critical. If the tabletop is of impressive size, it makes sense to first divide it into fragments and cast it in parts. It is more convenient to make the joining points at right angles. It is not recommended to make the tabletop thicker than 5 cm.

It is important to carefully measure the space where you plan to install the product with the countertop.

Possible repairs

With regular, almost daily use of this set, repairs will only be needed after a few years. It is most convenient to stir at the sides of the tub. Because of this, the horizontal pipes on the tub wear out more on the sides.

If desired, you can cut this pipe and weld it on the other side or replace it with another.

Also, the holder on the shovel will gradually wear out in the place where it rubs. Simply cut off the leaky piece of pipe (if you notice that the holder begins to bend under heavy load) and weld it again to the canvas, and from the opposite end add the missing piece of a thicker pipe.

How to put concrete on old concrete?

When carrying out repairs, even in a not newly built room, a procedure for laying concrete on concrete may be necessary, since only by updating the screed, that is, by leveling it as much as possible, can you achieve ideal evenness of the floors.

So, when laying concrete on old concrete, the following work must be carried out in stages:

Using a grinding machine, the first thing you need to do is remove the loose top layer, that is, remove the top part of the old concrete.
Using wire brushes, clean the work surface from accumulated dust and dirt.
After completing this cleaning work, you need to treat the surface with a deep penetrating primer.
After the previously applied primer has dried, you can begin the main process, that is, directly to the floor screed itself.
To prevent the newly laid concrete from cracking, you need to use a reinforcing mesh.
Now you can start laying the concrete itself. This process, however, is no different from traditional concrete laying: beacons are installed along the edges and concrete mortar is poured.

Sequence of preparing cement mortar

When preparing a solution, for example for plastering walls, first add sand in the required amount (if you want to use the volume of the bucket to the maximum, then leave one bucket of sand for later, when you pour in and mix the water). Then add cement and dry mix them until the cement is completely mixed with the sand and there are no large streaks of sand. Now you can add water. Experiment. Don't add too much water at once. If you “overdo it” and the solution becomes too liquid, you will have to add sand and cement and mix again for a long time. When you add water, it will stir it into a uniform solution much faster.

If the solution is too thick, it is very difficult to stir and it comes in lumps. If the solution is too thin, it is very easy to stir and will run off the shovel. With the correct density of the solution, a characteristic rustling sound appears, stirring the solution is relatively easy, and it remains on the shovel even when you turn the shovel 30 - 45 degrees to the horizon.

According to the requirements of the standards, preparing the solution mechanically should take at least 15 minutes. This is necessary so that the cement grains are well crushed and envelop the grains of sand. When preparing manually, this time needs to be increased at least twice... Of course, in everyday conditions no one will punish you for not complying with standards, but it is worth achieving at least a uniform color of the solution (so that there are no streaks of unmixed sand). In order for the solution to take on the same grade throughout the entire volume, after this it is worth stirring for a few more minutes. Your solution is ready.

A favorite wooden table upgraded with a concrete top

Our list is not only items made entirely of cement. Since the concrete mixture is uneven, that’s why wood will look so good in combination with it.

And the best example of this is this option with a teak tabletop and a base made of deep gray concrete. It costs, of course, a lot of money - $2,295, but it looks simply amazing (interested? Read more on RH).

If you did not have time to produce the mixed solution

If you are slow to process the solution, or the weather is hot, the solution in the bucket will become harder over time. Just add a little water and stir until desired uniform consistency. Cement mortar, unlike cement adhesive that is used for tiles, can be “stored” for up to several days. It is only important to stir it regularly. It is possible that you did not calculate, and at the end of the day you have a large amount of solution left that you could produce tomorrow. No problem! Add a large amount of water and bring the solution to the state of liquid sour cream. The next day, drain the water that has come to the top, and first “scrape off” the solution in thin layers, then add a little cement and mix. If the solution turns out to be liquid, add a little more cement and sand and mix again. This solution can be used.

Sequence of concrete preparation

Starting to prepare concrete manually is similar to preparing mortar. If you have already mixed sand and cement and added water, crushed stone can be added even before the mixture is thoroughly mixed. Since crushed stone does not weaken the mixture, but serves only as a filler, there is no need to mix it for a long time. But during the time when the added crushed stone is mixed, the cement will continue to grind and mix with sand. This way you will speed up the process.

Note 1

Do not pour out all the crushed stone at once. For a proportion of 1/3/4 (1 cement, 3 sand, 4 crushed stone), sand and cement are mixed in full, after mixing them with water, add two buckets of crushed stone, mix them, add two buckets of crushed stone again and mix again. If hard concrete works for you, you can add another bucket of crushed stone later. The result is a proportion of 1/3/5. It is possible that the volume of the tub will allow you to add another bucket of crushed stone, but it will be very difficult to mix it.

Note 2

Concrete is very sensitive to water. If necessary, add water, do it in small portions, one glass at a time, and stir until smooth. When the concrete is ready, note the amount of water that was applied. Next time you can pour out almost all the water at once. Leave water for 2-3 additions - this is in case the sand or crushed stone is more wet.

Note 3

For manual preparation, try not to use coarse crushed stone - it is difficult to knead. Maximum size 20 – 40 millimeters. If the technology requires the concrete to contain coarse crushed stone, add it at the very end.

Date of publication: 21-12-2013, 17:19

Many home craftsmen suffer because they do not have a full-fledged container for mixing the solution. Most people use small troughs, in which you can hardly pour a couple of buckets of sand, although in reality everyone has the opportunity to make a large container on their own and will not need to cut metal barrels, much less buy anything, of course, if they are all needed for construction "ingredients" are available.

So, in order to build a container you will need a wide and long sheet of tin, nails and an edged board. More specifically, the sheet of tin should be about 100x170 cm in size. As for the board, you need a board at least 6 m long. It is important to clarify here that you need a thick board of at least forty.

First you need to measure and saw off two long boards, 170 cm each, and then two short boards, 1 m each. Then you need to knock them into a box. Then you will need to lay a sheet of tin on top of the box so that it covers the entire space and nail it. If there is a little bit of tin left at the edges, you can bend it. You need to nail it thoroughly so that the tin fits tightly to the board, otherwise water will leak out of the trough.

The result will be a durable, voluminous and, very importantly, lightweight tank for mixing the solution.

When I was just starting to put up a fence and needed to concrete the fence posts, there was a need to mix the concrete in some way. I would be happy to purchase a concrete mixer, since I will definitely need it in the further construction of the house, but due to the lack of electricity and the fence itself, another solution is needed.

Elementary and simple - everything you need for minimalism

This design is not just a concrete structure, since this particular model is made from marble, granite, stone, etc. As a result of this choice of raw materials, its price starts from $450.

However, it is precisely the love for such raw materials that creates a more natural texture (more details on cb2)

Selection of materials and assembly of a trough for mixing concrete.

To make a trough for mixing concrete with your own hands

I needed to purchase the following materials:

Thin millimeter galvanized steel sheet one meter by two meters. Cost 300 rubles.

Boards are 20-30 millimeters thick. We saw to get two two-meter boards and two one-meter boards.

Well, nails plus self-tapping screws (bugs).

First, I cut two-meter boards, as in the picture below. Shown with a red broken line.

Then I reinforced the entire structure with self-tapping screws, since unbent nails tend to come out over time.

Due to the fact that the cuts on two-meter boards have a slightly rounded shape, the meter boards nailed to them tightly press the steel sheet on top, and slightly move away from the steel sheet from below, forming unique handles by which you can carry the trough.

The trough for mixing concrete turned out to be very airtight, especially after the first mixing and filling of the cracks with concrete. Water does not flow out.

It is much more difficult to mix concrete in a trough than in a concrete mixer, but you can mix much more in one batch. Our “friends” from Tajikistan love this technology; they mix a whole bunch of concrete at a time. More precisely, all at once :)

The quality of concrete is higher in a concrete mixer!

When performing various landscaping works, it is often necessary to make a concrete solution. It is very difficult to mix it in a trough, and it is almost impossible to achieve a high quality solution.

A manual concrete mixer will help significantly ease the work and improve the quality of the solution.

This unit will help you make any cement-sand mortar quickly and efficiently.

Diagram of an electric concrete mixer: 1 - barrel, 2 - blades, 3 - handle, 4 - frame, 5 - electric motor, 6 - gearbox, 7 - suspension loop of the electric motor platform, 8 - limiter.

A concrete mixer can be purchased at a hardware store, but they are not cheap. If the amount of work is small and is carried out irregularly, then the best option would be a manual concrete mixer with your own hands.

To independently manufacture such a unit, the simplest materials can be used. First of all, it is necessary to determine the required one-time productivity (for a manual concrete mixer, about five buckets of the finished solution are quite enough). Then you need to prepare working sketches, necessary materials and tools.

The main working part of this unit is the drum. It is best to use a metal barrel with a capacity of 100 to 200 liters as a drum.

Ideas and photos of countertops and tables made of concrete

With a flowerbed in the middle

For a dacha, a great option is to leave a trench when pouring concrete where you can plant flowers. Looks very amazing.

How to lighten the design

The ideal option and a great idea is to leave a hole in the middle and make a glass tab . To do this, you need to cut out a trench for the glass tab.
Also put the concrete tabletop on legs with wheels - this is especially appropriate for coffee tables that often have to be moved.

Preparatory stage

To create a manual concrete mixer you will need the following materials and tools:

iron barrel (capacity from 100 to 200 l);
metal corner 50x50 mm (or profile 40x40 mm);
pipe with a diameter of at least 32 mm;
metal rod with a diameter of about 50 mm;
flanges with bearing holders;
wing bolts M12;
metal wheels with a diameter of about 15 cm;
ball bearings with an internal diameter corresponding to the diameter of the axle;
Door hinges;
anti-corrosion paint;
paint brush;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
roulette;
hammer.

Return to contents

Cutting and filling expansion joints

It was mentioned above that to increase the stability of the floor screed, expansion joints are cut into them.

To complete this job you will need the following tools:

Joint cutters.
Rope.
Chalk (ordinary).
Ruler (wide).
Grinding device or brush (mechanical).

These cuts are made so that there is not such a strong connection between the walls, floor and screed. Otherwise, the slightest fluctuation or influence of the external environment will lead to damage to the very foundation of the building - its screed.

Insulating material is installed into the prepared groove, which is then filled with sealant. In order for the thread to fulfill its function of protecting the building from destruction, the laid insulating material must not come into contact with the screed, that is, it must be below this level.

Sequence of manufacturing a concrete mixer

Work on assembling a manual mixer is carried out in the following sequence:

Scheme of fastening the barrel on the stands: 1 – mixer shaft, 2 – suspension bearing, 3 – concrete mixer shaft bearing, 4 – bearing housing, 5 – suspension.

Water is poured into the barrel and it is checked for density. Detected cracks and holes are welded.
A hole for the shaft is cut exactly in the center of the bottom of the container. A similar hole is drilled in the lid.
A rectangular hole measuring 30x35 cm is cut out on the side surface of the container (a hatch for loading mixture components and unloading the finished solution).
One flange is welded to the bottom of the barrel.
A bearing is placed on one end of the mixer shaft. The shaft is inserted through the drum, the bearing is attached to a flange welded to the bottom of the barrel.
They are welded onto the shaft at an angle of 120°, and at least three blades are welded in relation to each other. The length of the blades should be such that they do not reach the drum walls by approximately 5 mm.
A cover with a welded flange is placed on the other end of the shaft.
The lid is welded into the drum.
A bearing is put on the shaft and secured in the cover flange.
The ease of rotation of the shaft in the drum body is checked; the blades are not allowed to touch its walls.
From the corner, two structures are made in the form of a triangle, the span of the lower legs of which should be no less than the width of the drum. The height of the triangle should be equal to the radius of the drum plus 50 cm (so that a trough can be installed under the mixer).
Both flanges are welded to the tops of the triangular support structures. On one side, the supports are fastened with corners.
Two wheels are welded to the bottom of one support, which will allow the unit to be easily moved around the site.
Hinges with a lid are welded to the loading hole of the drum, and on the opposite side - bolts with wings for closing the lid.
Two L-shaped handles about 60 cm long are made from a corner and a pipe (for rotating the mixer drum).
The handles are welded on opposite sides to the mixer axis, one up, the other down (so that the concrete mixer does not swing when the shaft rotates).
A stopper lever is welded to the drum, preventing the barrel from tipping over when it rotates. While mixing the solution, it stops; after mixing the mixture with its help, the barrel body is rotated and the solution is unloaded into the trough.
The finished unit is cleaned of rust and dirt, then painted with anti-corrosion paint.

When constructing small objects: a garage, cellar or gazebo, it is not advisable to buy ready-made mortar. You don’t use it all at once, since pouring the foundation, erecting walls and other types of work must be done at a certain interval. Therefore, it is advisable to mix concrete with your own hands as needed, in small portions that can be put into use immediately. To make the material especially durable, do not forget to moisturize it for 7-10 days after installation.

Tools

In order to make a coffee table with a rectangular concrete top, we will need:

Wooden boards.
Wire mesh for strengthening concrete.
A piece of 1/2-inch chipboard or plywood to make the desired shape.
Drywall.
Screws.
Pneumatic nailer to attach the sides to the bottom panel.
Large plastic container for mixing cement.

Required components and accessories

If we are not talking about special brands of concrete, it will require only a few components and a minimum of tools for preparation:

cement;
sand;
crushed stone or gravel;
water;
trough or similar container;
shovel.

The quality of the solution depends on the accuracy of the proportions, the purity of the materials and the thoroughness of their mixing. Sand and crushed stone should not contain clay, which impairs the characteristics of the finished fill and its resistance to moisture and cold. If these litters will be exposed to the open air for some time, they must be covered with something from falling leaves and other debris. Avoid getting particles of synthetic materials and dust into the solution.

Water for mixing the solution can be used both drinking and technical, collected from a tap, in a well or in a river. But water that is salty or contains foreign inclusions can significantly affect the quality of concrete. In addition, if it is reinforced, excess salt in the water will lead to corrosion of the metal. Particles of clay, silt, algae, fuel oil or an excessive concentration of any chemical compounds also significantly affect the quality of the final product.

The permissible size of crushed stone pieces ranges from 5 to 150 mm. It is best to use fine filler, no more than 20 mm. The size of a larger stone should not exceed one third of the thickness of the concrete layer. When making concrete, other types of filler can be used instead of crushed stone or gravel. These are coal slags, expanded clay, artificial crushed stone. But their use will reduce the durability of the structure. To create decorative types of concrete, small particles of glass or marble chips are added to the solution, and colored cement is added.

To prepare a good solution, it is advisable to purchase cement grade M400 or M500. For small buildings, the M300 brand is sufficient. But this material “ages” quite quickly, losing its declared properties, so there is no need to buy it for future use. When pouring a foundation for a heavy object, only coarse sand is added to the solution. But it is quite expensive, so for small buildings it is permissible to use a mixture of coarse and fine sand.

Design and principle of operation of the tub

The design includes:

Pos. 1 – tank in the form of a cone;
Pos. 2 – gate;
Pos. 3 – control handle;
Pos. 4 and 5 – elements for fixing the gutter;
Pos. 6 – trench for supplying solution;
Pos. 7 – funnel;
Pos. 8 – loop for transportation;
Pos. 9 – visor.

Most often, the container is made in the shape of a truncated cone, which is connected to a cylindrical shell. The gate serves to regulate the supply of the mixture using a handle with a lever mechanism.

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When transporting equipment, the chute is fixed with a lock, pos. 4, and when pouring the mixture through the chute with a retainer, pos. 5. Through the chute pos. 6 ensures the direction of the solution flow. Funnel pos. 7 with a flange prevents splashing of the composition when mixing and when unloading the mixture.

Tip: To unload the construction mixture into a hard-to-reach place, put a rubberized sleeve on the flange.

The container shown in the photo is distinguished by the design of the housing, which conventionally consists of three parts:

Rectangular receiver for concrete or mortar mixture;
A bunker shaped like a truncated pyramid;
A two-section valve, with the help of which the angle and intensity of the supply of concrete solution is adjusted.

The concrete receptacle and shoe hopper are usually made of rolled metal. To strengthen the body of the device, a longitudinal frame is additionally constructed from channels, which prevents deformation of the tub when it is fully loaded.

Hinges for transporting or unloading containers using lifting equipment are attached to channels reinforcing the structure. Special elements are additionally attached to the reinforcing frame, which ensure that the container is tilted at the required angle when unloading the solution or concreting the area.

The shoe has a special shutter, both doors of which have their own handles for control. This design allows for adjustment of the mixture supply. Special safety rings on the handles protect the tub from accidental opening of the shutter.

Tip: Due to the design, the mixture may not be completely discharged without additional impact. Therefore, a shoe-shaped product should be equipped with a mounted vibrator.

When transporting equipment, the lifting mechanism is attached to the tub using transport loops. To transport dry mixtures and hard concrete, a mechanical vibrating bucket is used. The container in this case is supplied with an electric motor mounted on a conical tank.

In addition, the container may have a technological platform intended for the operator and delivery of technological equipment to the concreting area for lifting the bunker with concrete. The cone hopper can only be used in a vertical position. And its volume can be v=0.75; v=0.8 cubic meters

At the initial stage of construction work, when constructing a utility room, installing a temporary fence or repairing an existing building, it becomes necessary to mix a small portion of concrete solution in a special container. The concrete trough will allow you to prepare up to five buckets of concrete using a regular shovel for mixing.

To mix a small volume of concrete solution, you need a container, which can be purchased if you have available funds. However, is it worth spending financial resources for such purposes if it is necessary to purchase expensive building materials and pay the costs of their delivery? After all, you can easily make a trough for concrete with your own hands, using available materials.

Let's consider simple options for containers for preparing concrete composition, the necessary materials and technological manufacturing features.

Trough for manual mixing of concrete

Composition and procedure for preparing concrete mixture

To prepare about 100 liters of concrete, you need to mix 30 kg of cement (3 buckets), 70 kg of sand (5 buckets), 100 kg of crushed stone (about 8 buckets). It will take from 16 to 23 liters of water, depending on the humidity of the fillers used. For mixing, you can take an old galvanized trough or prepare a wooden panel about 3 m long and 1.4 m wide, covered with roofing iron. Sand is first poured into the container, then cement, after which these ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If you don’t have a construction mixer at hand, you can use a regular shovel. Water is gradually added to the mixture, and each time after that it is mixed again. Excess moisture can reduce the strength of future concrete.

The procedure is repeated until a plastic mass of homogeneous consistency is obtained.

Crushed stone is poured into the prepared mass and everything is mixed again. The thickness of the concrete solution should resemble good homemade sour cream. If it turns out to be too liquid, you should add a little cement, but not filler. To quickly prepare concrete with your own hands, it is better to mix from both sides simultaneously, and for large volumes, carry out it with four people.

If you have your own concrete mixer or can borrow one from somewhere, the mixing process will be much easier. The components are used in the same proportions. The order in which they are loaded into the device is of great importance. First you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is empty, and then pour water into it. Next, half of the prepared cement, all the crushed stone, the remains of cement are added, and then sand is gradually poured in. It is advisable to place the concrete mixer container at a slight angle to the horizontal surface. To obtain a mixture without lumps, rotate the solution for 2 to 3 minutes. You should not get carried away with the process, since when rotating for more than 3 minutes, delamination of the concrete may begin.

Features of the rotary tank

A bucket for concrete with horizontal loading is called a shoe (type BP). Its distinctive feature is the change in the position of pouring the concrete mixture. Reception from transport is carried out in a horizontal plane, and movement and supply of the mixture into the formwork is carried out vertically or at any convenient angle. Due to the design features of such a container, its weight can be higher than that of a fixed tub of the same volume.

The body of the shoe is divided into three parts:

Rectangular receiver for concrete or mortar mixture.
Bunker in the form of a truncated pyramid.
Two-section valve that regulates the angle and intensity of the solution supply.

Receiver and hopper

The receiver for the mixture and the shoe hopper are most often made of rolled metal. Part of the body, made in the form of a truncated pyramid, is additionally strengthened by a longitudinal frame made of channels, which prevents deformation of the structure when fully loaded.

Hinges for working with lifting equipment are mounted on a frame made of channels. The reinforcing frame is supplemented with special elements - drives, which ensure the tilting of the container during concreting or unloading the solution.

Gate

The shoe is equipped with a special shutter, both doors of which have their own control handle. Thanks to this design, it is possible to regulate the supply of the mixture. To prevent accidental opening of the shutter, the handles are equipped with special safety rings.

Taking into account the structural features, the mixture cannot always be unloaded without additional impact. Therefore, a shoe-shaped concrete bucket suggests the possibility of using a mounted vibrator.

Price

Taking into account the weight of the structure itself and the volume of the container up to 3 m3, such devices are most often used to supply a mortar mixture. The cost of a tub of this type varies from 30 to 90 thousand rubles, depending on the maximum volume.

Characteristics

The compression coefficient of the material (or otherwise, the average strength) in kg/cm2 determines the grade of the material and is designated by the letter “M”. The number is indicated after the letter. For lean concrete, grades M100-M200 are typical.

Classification by strength in MPa, showing the retained weight per 1 square meter. cm of the hardened structure, is indicated by the letter “B” and the corresponding number. Consider classes B5, B7.5, B10, B12.5, B15.

Frost resistance (the number of freezing and thawing cycles of the material) is marked with the letter F. Lean concrete is specified in classes F50-F100.

The ability of a material to resist the penetration of moisture into the composition (water resistance) determines the likelihood of cracks and, accordingly, gradual destruction of the entire structure. The water resistance class is designated by the letter W. According to GOST, this parameter is W2-W4.

The correspondence of brands, classes, characteristics and purpose is given in the table:

Regulatory Standards and Rules

All documents can be divided into 2 groups:

state standards;
collections of norms and rules in construction (SNiP, SP).

At factories, the material is produced in accordance with GOST 26633-91. Failure to comply with standards leads to loss of declared properties and characteristics.

Other requirements for the quality, quantity and production of components are set out in GOST 8267-93, GOST 8736-85, GOST 7473-94, GOST 25192-82, GOST 26633-91, GOST 24640-91, GOST 23732-79, for concrete care – SP 63.13330.2012, SNiP 52-01-2003.

Additional documents are standards:

GOST standards for components;
GOST standards for testing, which provide definitions and characteristics of all indicators.

Deviations of indicator values from standard data are regulated and presented in the table.

The contract for the supply of concrete mixtures or their components specifies the requirements for materials, in particular, grade, porosity, temperature, storage conditions and periods.

According to regulatory documents, lean concrete undergoes quality control by the manufacturer, is accepted in batches that are regulated by GOST 18105, and is confirmed by accompanying documents.